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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Hello all,

It’s been an extremely long time since I’ve been on the forum. Still have my 04 vrod, don’t think I’ll ever sell it. I love it.

I rolled it out after sitting for some time in the garage and am having starting troubles. I keep battery on trickle charger when I’m not riding.

Turn key to ingnition- nothing at all
Turn key to acc - nothing at all
Replaced battery with brand new HD battery today - still nothing at all (battery measures 12.9v)

plug in portable jump starter and it starts right up and runs as long as I keep the starter connected. As soon as I remove a cable it dies instantly.

Unsure why it runs on the starter but not on a brand new (tested good) battery.
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
a pic since it’s been forever!
604548
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Not sure on the problem other then possibly the ignition switch itself but how do you shift with those Jesus shoes?
Ron
Doesn't everyone ride in flippy floppy’s? Don’t need proper attire if it doesn’t run. Would have changed shoes if it started, lol.

I thought ignition switch but if I hook up the portable starter the ignition switch and everything else works fine. Maybe these HD batteries are junk? Going to leave the new battery on the charger over night and see how it acts tomorrow.
 

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Doesn't everyone ride in flippy floppy’s? Don’t need proper attire if it doesn’t run. Would have changed shoes if it started, lol.

I thought ignition switch but if I hook up the portable starter the ignition switch and everything else works fine. Maybe these HD batteries are junk? Going to leave the new battery on the charger over night and see how it acts tomorrow.
Some confusing bits here. A pooched battery, even with 12.9 can crap out under load from hitting the start button but almost always you will have some form of lights in the instrument cluster etc. Load test is the only way to test the battery after a full charge. Where are you hooking up the booster? Right on the battery terminals and cables or at the solenoid and frame for ground? To have 0 Batt+ there would need to be an open circuit in the master fuse. That fuse is fed from the battery cable at the solenoid with a smaller wire going to master fuse and then into the bikes wiring. Try a continuity check from the solenoid battery cable and the master fuse holder plug. However, if you are connecting directly to battery terminals with the booster, lights come on and it starts and runs with it hooked up and it quits when you disconnect, it eliminates that possible problem and points directly to a bad battery.
Rno
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Some confusing bits here. A pooched battery, even with 12.9 can crap out under load from hitting the start button but almost always you will have some form of lights in the instrument cluster etc. Load test is the only way to test the battery after a full charge. Where are you hooking up the booster? Right on the battery terminals and cables or at the solenoid and frame for ground? To have 0 Batt+ there would need to be an open circuit in the master fuse. That fuse is fed from the battery cable at the solenoid with a smaller wire going to master fuse and then into the bikes wiring. Try a continuity check from the solenoid battery cable and the master fuse holder plug. However, if you are connecting directly to battery terminals with the booster, lights come on and it starts and runs with it hooked up and it quits when you disconnect, it eliminates that possible problem and points directly to a bad battery.
Rno
Booster is connected to the battery terminals in my testing. Tried 2 brand new batteries from my local HD (supposedly were tested and good). I don't believe that to be the case even though it measures 12.9v. I put the new battery on the trickle charger overnight and it still shows as charging. The battery storage process at my local HD is definitely broken.
 

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Booster is connected to the battery terminals in my testing. Tried 2 brand new batteries from my local HD (supposedly were tested and good). I don't believe that to be the case even though it measures 12.9v. I put the new battery on the trickle charger overnight and it still shows as charging. The battery storage process at my local HD is definitely broken.
Like I say, a load test will show a problem. Simple voltage check will not. Each and every battery that failed on me was showing full charge on the tender and took a nose dive on load test.
Ron
 

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Must be over 10v when hitting the starter button/cranking...
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Must be over 10v when hitting the starter button/cranking...
It's at 12.9v on my volt meter and won't light up the console, headlights, click, or do anything. On the tender it shows as still charging. Plan to let it sit till I get a green light then give it a go. If still no good, battery going back and I'm going to a different source for a new battery.
 

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It's at 12.9v on my volt meter and won't light up the console, headlights, click, or do anything. On the tender it shows as still charging. Plan to let it sit till I get a green light then give it a go. If still no good, battery going back and I'm going to a different source for a new battery.
Pretty sure that the boost works the battery is the culprit. I'd still do a load test on it to be sure. Batteries aren't cheap and if you just got this one it should be warranty on it. I would load test the replacement before dragging it home though if it's from the same place.
Ron
 

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How long did it sit? Check all the cable connections. Boost may be powering through some oxidation. Was it stored in an attached garage with some heat?
 
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