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To boost or not??
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Discussion Starter #1
So I'm not sure if it is just a DGD-KIM issue or not. But everything works great I'd I hit the run switch in the garage it powers in the bike and I can start her up. I can also turn it off and after the 30 seconds or so the power goes off. Now the issue is after I start it up and actually go out riding when I flip the run switch to stop the engine nothing happens....she just keeps running. But if I pop the clutch and kill it after Ive hit the kill switch the 30secs or so the power will cut...now the reason I'm not sure if it is he DGD-KIM is I'm also running a TwinTec and wired up a new start/stop switch...

Anyone have any ideas??

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To boost or not??
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Discussion Starter #3
Right now I have the tag in automatic, currently I'm not home, but when pushing the button I'm positive that the power did not turn on when it was in the off position
 

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Registered
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That might warrant a phone call to DGD, I have no idea what it could be other than their module. Good luck with that though, let me know how it turns out.
 

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Friend of Max.
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Did you remove the wires from the run/stop switch on the harness side and jump them together as per the instructions? If I remember correctly, that's the cause for this kind of failure. If you don't take those wires out of the connector, you will never kill power to the DGD-KIM module.
 

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To boost or not??
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Discussion Starter #6
Yeah we did put the little jumper cable to it and tapped them up...maybe they became un connected. Will check those tomorrow when I get home, will let you know.
 

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Friend of Max.
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What kind of switch did you use instead of the standard run/stop switch?
 

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To boost or not??
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Discussion Starter #8
RJ, I'm running some APEM switches because that's what the controls came with. Here is the switch because I ordered some extra just to have on hand. APEM Switches
 

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To boost or not??
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Discussion Starter #9
Well talked to Bruce today from Digital Dawg, gave me a couple things to check sounds like it might be either A) some wires making contact, but everything was heat shrink-ed and then electrical taped...still going to check it all. B) Possibably a stuck relay in the box, says it's extremely rare but does happen. So tonight I get to check a couple things to find out.
 

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To boost or not??
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Discussion Starter #11
Just recently, I picked the unit up off eBay which now has me second guessing it. Question for those that have the unit. When you flip the kill switch to off, how quick does your headlight/power turn off? Does it die right way or do you have to wait for a bit??
 

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Just recently, I picked the unit up off eBay which now has me second guessing it. Question for those that have the unit. When you flip the kill switch to off, how quick does your headlight/power turn off? Does it die right way or do you have to wait for a bit??
There should be no delay.
 

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redneckgearhead
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Just recently, I picked the unit up off eBay which now has me second guessing it. Question for those that have the unit. When you flip the kill switch to off, how quick does your headlight/power turn off? Does it die right way or do you have to wait for a bit??
Instantly
 

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To boost or not??
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Discussion Starter #14
Alright so that seems to be my issue then, because when I flip the kill switch it takes a good 30-60 seconds to turn off. So I need to figure out where the power is still coming from. Anyone have an idea on where I should start chasing this? Maybe the switch it self?
 

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Alright so that seems to be my issue then, because when I flip the kill switch it takes a good 30-60 seconds to turn off. So I need to figure out where the power is still coming from. Anyone have an idea on where I should start chasing this? Maybe the switch it self?
I suppose it could be the switch or a bad relay. A continuity test on the switch and a voltage test of the relay:
  1. Ground the DGD-KIM black ground wire
  2. Connect 12 V to the DGD-KIM red wire
  3. Connect a volt meter to the DGD-KIM red with black stripe or red with gray stripe wires
  4. Connect the DGD-KIM gray wire to the DGD-KIM white with black stripe wire
  5. The meter should read 12 V with the GY and W/ BK touching and instantly turn off when disconnected
would confirm if these are good or bad.

That APEM switch doesn't look very "weather proof". I wouldn't use it in an exposed area like MC hand controls.
 

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To boost or not??
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Discussion Starter #16
Alright I found my issue it was a wiring issue, and just a dumbass issue. Soo long story short I was pulling power from the data bus and feeding it back into the accessory fuse...don't ask must have been one of those late nights... But she works perfectly fine now
 
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