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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi All,
So as one of my winter jobs I decided to re grease the bearings in the headstock. Top one looks great but the bottom one is screwed, red rusty. Taper bearing came off the shaft no problem, but getting the race out of the headstock is horrendous. No access to the lip to hit with a cold chisel, bought a proper puller but there is minimal lip for it to gra
Have heard that if you use a tig and run it around the outer race, when it cools down the race shrinks and drops out.
Question, is it ok to use this method or will it fry some of the elecrtonics ?
Obviously I will disconnect both leads from the battery, and pull the main fuse. Anything else I should do, disconnect the ECU maybe ?
Any advise appreciated.
Regards, Jeff
 

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No need to run a tig/mig all way round, 3 spots will do the fix.
Disconnect battery and some non flammable/wet rag around steering neck to
cover the paint/bike.
And a bucket of water, for that extra precaution..
 

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Have you tried grabbing the back side of the rollers instead of the inner race as one option? I'd be inclined to grind the bearing splitter tool to fit and work as intended. They are not a lot of money to start with and next time the job is a walk in the park.
Ron
 

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That inner race..
Place tree stem in a solid vice (not the threaded area), then some carefully! use of a grinder,
a Dremel would be super here, (you dont want to grind the tree itself do you?!) then
hit the grinded area with a chisel which cracks/splits up the race = removable.
May sound a bit brutal but works, done right will not harm the tree.
 

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That inner race..
Place tree stem in a solid vice (not the threaded area), then some carefully! use of a grinder,
a Dremel would be super here, (you dont want to grind the tree itself do you?!) then
hit the grinded area with a chisel which cracks/splits up the race = removable.
May sound a bit brutal but works, done right will not harm the tree.
Yes, that's an option. Done that many times. Back up the opposite side of race with a solid object (bucking bar) and hit the flat, pref with a length wise groove ground in for the chisel and give it a hit. They crack quite easy and then will come off. Removed a couple of main shaft races on the HD big twin trans where the race had slipped inward too far for the actual tool to work.
Ron
 

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That inner race..
Place tree stem in a solid vice (not the threaded area), then some carefully! use of a grinder,
a Dremel would be super here, (you dont want to grind the tree itself do you?!) then
hit the grinded area with a chisel which cracks/splits up the race = removable.
May sound a bit brutal but works, done right will not harm the tree.

This is exactly how I did mine a couple years back. Used a dremel and cutting wheel. Wasn't a bad job at all. If I remember I think I went at it on an angle so I could use the full diameter of the wheel to cut almost all the way through before it hit the stem or tree.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Hi Guys, thanks for thr replies.
Ive already got the bearing off the stem, that was easy. Its the race thats installed in the fork head on the frame.
Anyone used a tig or dremmel on this ? there is next to no lip to get a punch onto ans the access is compromised by the shape inside the hole. Ive tried 2 different pullers but no success.
 

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You could use a Dremel and cut a lip on the race. Then use the cut and a screw driver, or suitable sharp edged tool, inserted into it to beat it out from the opposite end.

Just a thought
 

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On my 13DX it was time to grease the head. Fearing the worst I was surprise they had grease on the bearings. Not a lot but some and it was getting that dry texture to it so the time was right to repack the bearings. It has more now and a better quality grease . Bike has never been washed, only detailed and the few times I got caught in the rain, it wasn't enough to get in there. Probably what saved it.
Ron
 

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I use the expandable O.D. collet and a couple of whacks with the slide hammer and race is out. If you haven't purchased bearings then it takes (Qty 2) Timken Set #14 and that is one race and race and one tapered bearing. I bought 10 sets on eBay for $20.00 with free shipping so it might pay to check eBay.

Ron
 

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Tig not necessary. I pass of 7018, 3/32 will do the trick. That's a very old tried and true method of removing bearing races. On mine I found a washer the right O.D. and welded that in. Then I reached thru with an extention from my 1/2" set and as soon as I tapped, it fell out. ECM should be ok, but make certain you have a good ground. Also, I plugged my down tubes and drilled and tapped a small hole in neck for a zerk. Good luck.
John
 
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