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Discussion Starter #1
Hi fellow riders,

I'm in the process of replacing my bearings. I've been searching and reading on various techniques to remove the bearing cups from the steering neck.

Dremmel with small cutoff disc...I have one but generally dislike the idea of trying to cutout the cups.

Purchase the specialty tools to do the job right...haha, i'm way to cheap for that....initially anyway.

Throw a couple of 1 inch beads with a mig...i can do that...but does it really work? Am I going to burn the paint off my frame/neck? Does anyone have 1st hand experience doing this and if so, can you lay it out for me? Where am I going to attach the ground clamp? Any pictures out there of this? Please help if you can. Thanks.
 

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Noel
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I have heard that welding the bead works well, never done it myself, I like the JIM's bearing race removal tool, two pieces slide into the race, then a special drift with a pin the pushes the two pieces against the race when you hammer on the drift, they pop right out, I then use JIM's race seating tool to install the new ones.
 

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durata membro
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Welding a bead on the race works,and it works well.
You do take a big chance of scorching the powder coating.I have won many times by using a water saturated towel wrapped on the area that will get the heat.It's a chance that you will have to decide on.
The best way to remove the races is with the tool.For the one time shot of doing it yourself,the tool is expensive.You might check w the local parts stores to see if they have a tool that will work.Most of these places rent,or let you borrow such specialty tools.Also check with a tool and equipment rental joint.they just might have the tool for a cheap rental price.
 

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get a bucket of ice water and put the towel in it, it will help you by cooling off the head as well as keep the powder from baking. i have done it and it works very well.
 

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how much for the JIMS tool? where can you get one? can someone post a picture of it? thanx.
 

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Noel
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Page 179 of their 2009 catalog




STEERING HEAD BEARING RACE
REMOVER TOOL
Use to remove and install steering
head bearing race. Use with JIMS®
spacer No.2388 and JIMS® Tool
Handle No.33416-80. Instruction Sheet No.2232-IS.
No.2232 Use on all Big Twin 1949-present. (Note:
Includes aftermarket frames.) Use on
Sportster® 1978-present. Use on Buell ®
1987-02. Use on V-Rod® 2002-present.
 

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Noel
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4,598 Posts
Handle

page 155

RACE & BEARING INSTALL TOOL HANDLE
Use with No’s. 33071-73, 34810-84, 94547-80A & B,
97272-60, and 97273-60. Approximately 12” long.
No.33416-80
PARTS AVAILABLE SEPARATELY
NO. QTY. DESCRIPTION PART NO.
1 1 O-RING 2310
2 1 INSTRUCTION SHEET 33416-IS
 

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thanx, now i gotta find my book.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
I've finally got all my replacement parts in hand.

I bought a few tools at Harbor Freight today that I'll try. I think the most promising is a $7 seal removal tool. I try it and leave the weld method for a last resort. I'm nervous about it though because I've only got flux core wire and I think the spatter will booger up the exposed steel of the steering head above the bearing cup.

Whatever happens I'll post some pics.
 

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Premium Member
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How did the race removal and installation go?

I'm planning on replacing the bearings on mine soon, so I'm curious if I should get a tool or if anything else besides welding worked.

thanks!

Steve
 

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I haven't tried this method on the V-Rod, but on other bikes I have been able to tap the race out from inside the neck with long flat blade screwdriver. I place the blade through the neck and engage the little bit of the race the sticks out into the neck with the blade, then a couple of taps with a hammer and the race pops right out. BMW actually tells you to weld the rod on the inside of the race and pull it with a slide hammer. I never do that BS.
What I do not know on the V-Rod is what the inside of the neck looks like. Other bikes I'v worked on had straight pipes for a neck, with a shoulder cut in each end for the race. The inside edge of the race was smaller diameter than the ID of the neck, so there was a nice lip to put the screw driver blade against. Three whacks and the race is clanging on the floor. If the race does not stick out past the inside diameter of the neck, my technique does not work.
 

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Apprentice Poser
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I haven't tried this method on the V-Rod, but on other bikes I have been able to tap the race out from inside the neck with long flat blade screwdriver. I place the blade through the neck and engage the little bit of the race the sticks out into the neck with the blade, then a couple of taps with a hammer and the race pops right out. BMW actually tells you to weld the rod on the inside of the race and pull it with a slide hammer. I never do that BS.
What I do not know on the V-Rod is what the inside of the neck looks like. Other bikes I'v worked on had straight pipes for a neck, with a shoulder cut in each end for the race. The inside edge of the race was smaller diameter than the ID of the neck, so there was a nice lip to put the screw driver blade against. Three whacks and the race is clanging on the floor. If the race does not stick out past the inside diameter of the neck, my technique does not work.
Based on Svc Man description, looks like that will get it done. I always use the old races to tap new ones in. Some of us are lucky. We started doing this crap when you modified your own tools or improvised to get the job done.
 

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# 12/50 Ignite LE
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I haven't tried this method on the V-Rod, but on other bikes I have been able to tap the race out from inside the neck with long flat blade screwdriver. I place the blade through the neck and engage the little bit of the race the sticks out into the neck with the blade, then a couple of taps with a hammer and the race pops right out. BMW actually tells you to weld the rod on the inside of the race and pull it with a slide hammer. I never do that BS.
What I do not know on the V-Rod is what the inside of the neck looks like. Other bikes I'v worked on had straight pipes for a neck, with a shoulder cut in each end for the race. The inside edge of the race was smaller diameter than the ID of the neck, so there was a nice lip to put the screw driver blade against. Three whacks and the race is clanging on the floor. If the race does not stick out past the inside diameter of the neck, my technique does not work.
That method will not work on the V-ROD. The neck chokes down between the bearings to not much larger then the stem.
 

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That method will not work on the V-ROD. The neck chokes down between the bearings to not much larger then the stem.
That's the case, I'm failing to comprehend how the removal tool can be used....guess I'm gonna have to get to that when I get there.

:D
 

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I am about to replace my steering stem and bearings so this thread scares me. Those Jims tools are not cheap and the alternative methods sounds like you really need to know what you are doing before attempting the process.
Replacing the races is not a must that I know of but probably should be done just because.....????
 

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Apprentice Poser
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I am about to replace my steering stem and bearings so this thread scares me. Those Jims tools are not cheap and the alternative methods sounds like you really need to know what you are doing before attempting the process.
Replacing the races is not a must that I know of but probably should be done just because.....of wear patterns.
Fixed it for ya. Old race won't be concentric with new bearing. If I knew what I was doing before I did it, I wouldn't know how to do anything now. I never learned anything from the mistakes I didn't make.
:D
 

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bearing races

use a dremel or a grinder to split the race, we do this on our pumps and compressors. just take your time.
 

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Noel
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That's the case, I'm failing to comprehend how the removal tool can be used....guess I'm gonna have to get to that when I get there.

:D
There is just enough gap at the back end of the race in the neck for the half moons to hook against, but not enough to do it Philthy's way with a screw driver.:banghead:
 
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