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Color me Gone
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27,333 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have not had the stalling problem on either of my bikes. Enough people have had the problem that I thought I would start the thread and give them a place to post any information that might help others or just a place to vent about the stalling.
 

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974 Posts
I had the problem, I complained and was told I was fos , Then I got the SE flash along with a couple other goodies and it has not happenned again. That is my story about stalling. It is short now but any of you long timers remember me whining about the stalling from the other forum. BobT
 

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Live Free or Die
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938 Posts
Every longtime Harley rider that tries my V-Rod stalls it on the first time letting out the clutch. I have always attributed it to the V-Rods:

1) Tall final drive gearing (apparently solved with the 28T), and
2) The torque comes on a little later then in the Twin Cam 88 or the Evo.

I have to remind them to tune into the feel of the clutch engagement, and of course: give it a bit more throttle!
 

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COOLER RIDER
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5,180 Posts
Since installing the force fire (techlusion) I have developed a stall after startup hot or cold. As I let off the clutch it's as if I hit the kill switch. Is this an electrical or AFR problem you think?
 

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Chad 02 V-ROD
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1,364 Posts
I have hot stalls after riding for a while pull up to a light pull in the clutch and watch the RPM's drop to 0 start the bike back up and it will idle. Going to check the throttle cable and thinking about taking it and getting the HD flash done.
 

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SNAFU
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13,094 Posts
OKIE said:
Since installing the force fire (techlusion) I have developed a stall after startup hot or cold. As I let off the clutch it's as if I hit the kill switch. Is this an electrical or AFR problem you think?
I don't know about the ForceFire but the TFI box has a setting for idle. It's possible it's flooding the bike when you cut back the throttle causing it to stall. I would lean out the idle mixture on the box.

I doubt it's electrical.
 

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COOLER RIDER
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5,180 Posts
I looked on techlusions site and tuned the green to their directions. It was way off. Pretuned for these pipes :tmbsdow: But I really like the fact that I can now tune myself! The RT was waaaaay over my head.
 

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Metal Guitarist
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5,201 Posts
Everyone who had ridden my bike stalls it on take off and sometimes when stopping.
I have learned to ride with the tall first gear and it really is not a problem anymore, some times when i think it might stall i just keep it revved up to about 1300 when stopping.

I should also note that it did this stock, and after mods...still have the 30 th pulley.
 

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Liqwid Rider
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281 Posts
runit1971 said:
I have hot stalls after riding for a while pull up to a light pull in the clutch and watch the RPM's drop to 0 start the bike back up and it will idle.
Me too, but only occasionally. I'm running an 03 w/ 16GA and 28T w/ HD flash. Also, I'm getting alot of hesitation from 3500 to 4500 RPM. Almost like fouled plugs, but then it seems fine when I get past 4500RPM. It's going in the shop Thursday for the 2500mi service, so I'll have to see what they say.
 

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stalling when hot coming to stop

I have 02 with pcIII Rinehart pipes and screaming eagle air filter. had the air temp sensor moved to the air box but still stall when warm out coming to stop light or sitting at idle unless i keep the throttle open a little??

anyone have any ideas as to a fix???

do not notice it as much when cold outside. but seems to be almost a the time hot out.

thanks

Craig
 

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I have a 03 and have had a stalling problem with every setup I have ran. Had it with SE slip fits, SE air filter and download. Had it with V-Mods, SE airfilter and power commander. And now still have it with SE airfilter, completly hollowed out stock pipes and power commander using force map. I had the recall done and it still happens. It does not stall when I'm moving. It does it when im stoped ant in neutral or clutch pulled in. If I open the throtle quick it has a tendancy to stall. I also think my idle speeed is a little low. It's idleing at about 1000 RPM.
 

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Making the UK Fatter
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2,606 Posts
AKvrod said:
Me too, but only occasionally. I'm running an 03 w/ 16GA and 28T w/ HD flash. Also, I'm getting alot of hesitation from 3500 to 4500 RPM. Almost like fouled plugs, but then it seems fine when I get past 4500RPM. It's going in the shop Thursday for the 2500mi service, so I'll have to see what they say.
Try with top off, or modded. Mine runs a bit better in this range this way.
 

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COOLER RIDER
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5,180 Posts
Brianm1 said:
I have a 03 and have had a stalling problem with every setup I have ran. Had it with SE slip fits, SE air filter and download. Had it with V-Mods, SE airfilter and power commander. And now still have it with SE airfilter, completly hollowed out stock pipes and power commander using force map. I had the recall done and it still happens. It does not stall when I'm moving. It does it when im stoped ant in neutral or clutch pulled in. If I open the throtle quick it has a tendancy to stall. I also think my idle speeed is a little low. It's idleing at about 1000 RPM.
That PC map for force pipes is a joke(108hp with a crater in the middle). It's what gave Force pipes a bad name. I've made 121 and 117 on different dynos with them. Get rid of that map. Try the R.F.
 

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my stalling problem

posted in other areas but wanted to include it here.
I had stalling problem that only got worse. it would happen when the bike got hot. :yak: checked everything out and had code for the Idle Air Control Motor (IAC) but when I checked it the tests were showing it good. So I changed the Throttle Position Sensor thinking that it was given bad read as to idle or not. :spank:
The bike seemed to run better but nor for long. So went back to the tests and got the same answers. The dealer said call at the end of july to set up a time to drop the bike off. :hmm: which was not going to happen. so back to the tests again. This time things were a little diferent. when i had the air filter of and had the bike in my garage it was stalling were it would not before.
The IAC code was again in the system. When trying to start the bike I noticed that the IAC would pull back to the start or restart position as discriped in the service manual but it would spring back out as soon as the bike started to run at an idle and then stall. so I removed the black vacum plug next to the IAC and the bike started right up and stayed running the IAC needle would bounce in and out. So after the bike cooled down I followed the manual as to how the IAC was to be removed.
:notworth: (if you are not good with tools bring it to you dealer !!!!!).
after it was removed i gave the IAC a small pull as the neddle had reset itself and the whole thing fell apart. it looks like the insides are all plastic and the heat of the engine melted it or it was just defective and took this long for it to let go. I had already ordered a new one before so it should be at my house today and will hope to have the bike back together by tommorow and will post what i find.
 

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MASTER VR TECH
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1,777 Posts
Mass, your on to something. Had a fellow Forum member bring me your post today, which I have seen before. The bike would not idle. Remember I have all the High Dollar Computers at work for this. Was getting a bad reading from the IAC. I checked for an Intake Leak first. No problems. Cable adj. was done many times by myself and STAN. When I pulled the IAC, it fell apart. I called a fellow wrench and he had said, this was seen once before on a VR. I asked him why did'nt he tell me about it? He said, "It was a broken part, no need to alert the Pentagon" This may be a future issue, But please don't mess with these sensors on your own. You may do more harm than good. Take it to a shop that has proper tools for the job. It does'nt have to be a Stealer. Unless you have Warr. I will keep an eye on this. Later SKI.
 

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how to check your IAC

If you are having stalling problems :hitfan: i have found a problem with the IAC (Idle Air Control). This is located on the throttle body and should only be changed by a HD dealership. To check this remove the air cover and filter. in-between the two intakes is a small indentation. that is were the IAC works from. with the engine off turn your bike on then back off again and you should see the IAC move. after that try to start your bike if the IAC moves out but not back in or does not move. try to remove the vacuum plug from the side and see if it will start and stay running at all you need to have your dealer check it and chances are you will need a new one installed. Again do not try this own your own the throttle body has to be removed and you need torches to get this out. let the dealer do it. so if he blows your bike up (no joking) you will still be alive and can get a new one :ithappen: I will post photo of the throttle body to show you were to look.
 

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9 second club member
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Just took my bike in for the 15K service and I told the dealer about the stalling again (I tell them everytime) Then I told him to visualy check the IAC and not to take it apart, being I dont wont my bike to be down while waiting on a part. And he just lookd at me funny. I then asked who would work on my bike and he said who ever he gave it to they all can work on it. Not the anwser I was looking for. I pick the bike up tomorrow and I will see what they have to say.

I didnt pull the top off and look down into it and when you turn it on and off you can see it IAC move but when I turn it back off and then started it I didnt see it move. I didnt have time to try and take the vacume hose off. But my guess would be it is not working right.
 
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