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Discussion Starter #1
The local shop is having difficulty with tuning my 06 Night Rod 1130cc following the install of SE heads, Stage II cam kit and a D&D Fat Cat. I’m told that it stalls (boggs down and loses power) when accelerating in gear (under load) but works ok when not in gear. I’m told compression is ok, Fuel supply good, Coils good, Grounds good, Crank Position Sensor OK, IAC good. The PC III stabilizes it as it runs poorly when bypassed, even at idle. The mechanic seems to think it is related to fuel management and the combination of Heads & Cams.

An initial problem of overheating was solved by replacement of a temp sensor that prevented the fan from kicking on.

Anyone experience this problem and know the solution?
 

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not enough info to help but it shouldn`t be too hard to tune that combination . i do know that the fuel delivery will have to increased quite a bit in most of the map.. hope it works out..
 

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Sounds like the bike needs to be tuned on a dyno.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
not enough info to help but it shouldn`t be too hard to tune that combination . i do know that the fuel delivery will have to increased quite a bit in most of the map.. hope it works out..
Good point, Not sure that they have taken this into consideration. I wonder if anyone here has a good base tune for this set-up. I was unable to locate one in the Maps forum.

Sounds like the bike needs to be tuned on a dyno.
It is a dyno shop. They're not able to tune it.
 

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What tuner are you using... last map I saw for cams on a 1250 required an 85 cubic inch engine parameter to get the adjustment range out of the super tuner... If they do not know the secrets to getting more pulse width the the super tuner will allow based on cubic inches and injector size parameters then they will never get it tuned in right.
 

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Elephant Motors Rock
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What tuner are you using... last map I saw for cams on a 1250 required an 85 cubic inch engine parameter to get the adjustment range out of the super tuner... If they do not know the secrets to getting more pulse width the the super tuner will allow based on cubic inches and injector size parameters then they will never get it tuned in right.
:them:
 

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please post a little more info. i see you are using a pwr cmdr.. is the problem that the a/f is not right and they can`t get it corrected or is it something else.. if you know somebody who has a master tune or any of the hd tuners you can use it to record data that the pwr comdr won`t tell you.. you can`t map with it because it is married to another ecm but it will data record..it could be something to do with the ion sense,, that can cause real problems tuning with a pwr cmdr because you can`t tell what it is doing,, if you record data with one of the hd tuners you might find out what is happening.. post more info about what is happening and i am sure somebody on the forum will be able to help..
 

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Have them double check the cam timing.

I can tell u this if the cam timing is off by one link his motor would be turning over at all because the valves would be crashing into each other.
 

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I can tell u this if the cam timing is off by one link his motor would be turning over at all because the valves would be crashing into each other.
The cam sprockets may be right but the crank sprocket could be off. Sounds like they need a Fitzgerald chain tensioner.
 

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Bone Stock B Model
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There are so many variables of things that could be ****ed up... Having a shop thats not known for vrod motor work take the engine out change the heads and cams can be a disaster. That being said, if is starts and runs good they most likey got the timing correct. But there are so many small details that could have been done wrong.
 

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if the cam sprockets are alligned correctly and the secoundry sprocket is a notch late it will run but have a nasty rattle.it will still idle tho.it will rev ok but be down on power.
 

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i am still wondering is it an a/f problem or is it something else?? did the tech say that it was going too lean or too rich or if the mixture was right and it was another issue? you say the fuel delivery is alright but i have seen the fuel sock on the bottom of the pump collapse ,, the bike will hold good fuel pressure at idle and reving the motor out of gear but will loose fuel pressure when going down the road or running under a load on the dyno,, i would suggest having a fuel pressure gauge on the bike and verify that the fuel pressure is correct when the bike bogs down or stalls..
 

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i have just replaced a throttle position sensor on a bike that bogged down under rapid throttle but seemed ok on easy throttle.olso intermittant missfire.it threw a code tho.i think po122.im not saying this is your problem but you asked.you didnt mention codes?
 

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Discussion Starter #16
All good advice and much appreciated. For now, I need to get my hands on the bike and spend some time troubleshooting. These are good places to start. Problem is the lack of time and this is the reason it went to the shop.
No codes at this time to help guide the troubleshooting. I think lbrown may be on to something. I’m not a big fan of the whole piggy-back thing. I think the ubiquity of the PC3 lends itself to making tuners look good in most simple (ie: exhaust swap) set-ups. This one is a bit more. I may pull the PC3 and go with the SEPST and seek a more experienced V-rod tuner. Will keep you all posted.
 

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Discussion Starter #17 (Edited)
Oops, double post
 

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It seems like if they are tunning it, the dyno machine should show them the A/F ratio which sounds really low. That would give you a place to start anyway.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
The local shop is having difficulty with tuning my 06 Night Rod 1130cc following the install of SE heads, Stage II cam kit and a D&D Fat Cat. I’m told that it stalls (boggs down and loses power) when accelerating in gear (under load) but works ok when not in gear. I’m told compression is ok, Fuel supply good, Coils good, Grounds good, Crank Position Sensor OK, IAC good. The PC III stabilizes it as it runs poorly when bypassed, even at idle. The mechanic seems to think it is related to fuel management and the combination of Heads & Cams.

An initial problem of overheating was solved by replacement of a temp sensor that prevented the fan from kicking on.

Anyone experience this problem and know the solution?
So here’s the ho, ho humbug. Took the bike directly to Vreeland where they removed the PC3 and replaced it with the Race Tuner. Bike continued to shut down. Ray tells me the bike has metal floating around everywhere. Apparently, the cams were never shimmed right, too much lash which destroyed the tappets. Looks like it needs a rebuild, replace all the bearings, rods and pistons.

Several lessons learned here. Of benefit to all on this forum, shimming the cams correctly is VERY important. The VRod is a fickle beast - find the experienced VRod mechanic. Lesson learned for the locals - avoid North Shore Motorcycles in New Hyde Park, NY.
 

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Frank
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So here’s the ho, ho humbug. Took the bike directly to Vreeland where they removed the PC3 and replaced it with the Race Tuner. Bike continued to shut down. Ray tells me the bike has metal floating around everywhere. Apparently, the cams were never shimmed right, too much lash which destroyed the tappets. Looks like it needs a rebuild, replace all the bearings, rods and pistons.

Several lessons learned here. Of benefit to all on this forum, shimming the cams correctly is VERY important. The VRod is a fickle beast - find the experienced VRod mechanic. Lesson learned for the locals - avoid North Shore Motorcycles in New Hyde Park, NY.
Are you serious???? Wow, the intakes would be so loose if the just left in the stock shims. You may find out that the heads are destroyed as well if the cam tappets were allowed to float around too much they could have oversized the bore where they sit.
 
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