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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Is there anyone in the dallas fort worth area famialur with splitting the case on a 2002-03 vrod? My shift shaft broke and i have to split the case to get the new one in.

UPDATE*

So here is what happened.

After splitting the cases I discovered that the front spring has slipped off the detent (horrible design) and the back spring had come off the piece of the mechanism that separates them and keeps tension on the spring so both Springs had slipped.

This is the third time I have replaced the shift shaft. First two are no problem. This one not so much.

So I get the shift drum out finally and start trying to put it together but the service manual has very little info on this part of the bike and the pics they have in the service manual are more than useless. For instance, nowhere does it explain that the wheel has to go under the shift drum. Not on top of it. IIt will work either way except can't get the shift forks in right with it on top. By the way, what is that small little pin by the wheel? Looks like it is to hold the ratchet device in but installed is not close to it. I broke it off but had another one as I have several engines. So I used the another shift mechanism.

Now I had a hell of a time getting the shift forks in with the output shaft and it would still shift. Spent several days trying to figure out the problem.

Not sure what it was but one morning started working. Would shift. So I install the input shaft making sure everything is in bottom half of the case and everything in the neutral position. Mind u I have the engine upside down and have the screaming eagle heads installed and using the technique i read somewhere on here about using some old head bolts and cutting the heads off and using them as guides went that route. I used the retainers for the input shaft thrust bushing to hold the input shaft in place and used a bolt and some zip ties to make sure output shaft stayed in place.

Saying a prayer to the VROD God i proceed to marry the case taking care not to anger the screaming eagle heads and having them spit out the valve shims in protest.

Got all the case bolts installed and guess what? Now it wont shift. At all. Notta.

AFter making up half a dozen new swear words and trying to figure out how to make it my old lady's fault this is happening (that was an epic fail and the sofa is uncomfortable) I disassembled everything and started over. SLowly i put everything back together making sure it would shift after every single thing I did.

Married the case, Still shifts. Flipped the motor. Still shifts. I'm doing all this in my living room for practicality and comfort and convenience. Have the bike lift right in the center of the living room and not everyone in the house is happy about that. In fact one of us is down right pissed off about it... and that is not me.... lol

And I digress..

Get the motor in frame. Still shifts. Put the bike completely back together and pushed her outside and decided to wait till morning to start her.

Still shifts.

Next morning goto start her. CLick is all i get. So went thru the usual. Went and bought a new battery. CLick. Went and bought a new starter relay. Click.

Then I realized the engine was stuck. ANd now she wont shift at all.

So she is back in my living room and about to take her apart AGAIN and figure out what the hell.

Any advice on what the issue is? It would help me get her back on the road and probably save my marriage. Included some pics. I have customized every single thing on this bike I think. Next might put a supercharger on her. I have the killer glass now not pictured and frame is now powder coated.

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I believe you can replace the shift shaft ( that's the shift shaft that attaches to the external shifter linkage that goes into the left case ) without splitting the cases - guys do it all the time, Fitzgerald Motorsports and Fredy in Estonia sell freshly machined shift shafts to replace the H-D obsolete shafts - swap out takes less than an hour. (y):cool:
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I believe you can replace the shift shaft ( that's the shift shaft that attaches to the external shifter linkage that goes into the left case ) without splitting the cases - guys do it all the time, Fitzgerald Motorsports and Fredy in Estonia sell freshly machined shift shafts to replace the H-D obsolete shafts - swap out takes less than an hour. (y):cool:
Normally your right. But the spring on jthe actuator slipped because it is the old shorter spring. Only way to fix is split the case.
 

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Normally your right. But the spring on jthe actuator slipped because it is the old shorter spring. Only way to fix is split the case.
Pretty much the case if it's already disengaged. Wonder if one can get away with these early ones by laying the bike on it's side first to eliminate gravity and keep the spring engaged? 2005 and up, it's a non issue.
Ron
 

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Pretty much the case if it's already disengaged. Wonder if one can get away with these early ones by laying the bike on it's side first to eliminate gravity and keep the spring engaged? 2005 and up, it's a non issue.
Ron
Yes, it's strange how some are lucky and get away with it and some not. Mine is actually bent from an accident a couple of years back. I have a new one but have not grown the balls to change it just in case. It is working fine as is so don't want to tempt fate. Sometime in the near future I want to paint the frame so figure while the engine is out I could stick it on its side and give it a try then.
 

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Man that sucks no way to reset the spring without splitting the cases ? I just looked at my 1250 cases on the bench and there are a couple access ports that may provide access to help move the spring back into position - but I'm sure difficult without a borescope - I'd try it with the bike on it's side with a strong mini mag light looking down the shifter shaft hole to see what was possible moving the spring around without gravity - the deal breaker I guess is the length of the spring and whether it can hold itself in position or if it's so short it's sprung into the way of the shift shaft. Maybe use a small piece of metal on a wire to hold it in place then pull it out of the case through an oil port after the shaft is installed - I'd try everything in my trick phuck bag of tricks before I'd commit to splitting the cases on a perfectly running engine, unless the engine had other major issues - then yea I wouldn't even try to reset it. (y):cool:
 

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Yes, it's strange how some are lucky and get away with it and some not. Mine is actually bent from an accident a couple of years back. I have a new one but have not grown the balls to change it just in case. It is working fine as is so don't want to tempt fate. Sometime in the near future I want to paint the frame so figure while the engine is out I could stick it on its side and give it a try then.
Hell, in that case place the engine upside down. Even better. Then gravity is your friend.
Ron
 

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Shit if I'm splitting the cases and replacing main bearings and rod bearings I'm thinking about a 1/4 stroker crank, stroker pistons and rods. 1350cc - yea baby that's the ticket !! Why waste all that access labor and end up with the same engine ? I mean if that's what you want I get it but for a few grand more - WOW !! (y):cool:
 

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If want to keep job minimal you do not have to remove crank and you could still change the main bearings. Depending on the miles driven I would consider replacing conrod bearings too but those shells are not absolutely necessary to open. I mean if only tranny is under maintenance from otherwise working engine.
 

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Same old story - a little M/C maintenance begets more maintenance, a little modification begets more modification, with some maintenance mixed in. Pretty soon the whole bike & engines in pieces, with the owner searching for a snap ring that shot across the garage - empty wallet on the workbench, spilled beer on the floor - :cautious: :cry: :LOL:
 

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Looks like the early bikes had an uncaptured 35447-01K spring pushing the shift actuator out of position to insert the shift shaft - later bikes looks like it was captured in the assy. the other two shifter shaft nsprings 35443-01K and 35445-01K are the same 2002-2017. The 2002 shift actuator kit is 35450-01K it's different for later bikes 35017-01K using a newer style shifter actuator (with the captured spring) and newer shift drum, also the 1-3 shift forks have a KA instead of a K suffix ? - generally speaking can the newer kit be fitted to the early like gmanvrod's engine ? Do you need new shift forks ? Interesting to me also as I'm using the guts from a 2006 1130cc engine in a 2010 1250cc engine case, and I've got most of the gears and gear shifter parts. (y):cool:
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 · (Edited)
Same old story - a little M/C maintenance begets more maintenance, a little modification begets more modification, with some maintenance mixed in. Pretty soon the whole bike & engines in pieces, with the owner searching for a snap ring that shot across the garage - empty wallet on the workbench, spilled beer on the floor - :cautious: :cry: :LOL:
Boy your sure right. This has become a nightmare.

Let me preeface what Im about to say with the fact Im an auto diesel tech instructor at universal technical institute so I know my way around a toolbox...

UPDATE*

So here is what happened.

After splitting the cases I discovered that the front spring has slipped off the detent (horrible design) and the back spring had come off the piece of the mechanism that separates them and keeps tension on the spring so both Springs had slipped.

This is the third time I have replaced the shift shaft. First two are no problem. This one not so much.

So I get the shift drum out finally and start trying to put it together but the service manual has very little info on this part of the bike and the pics they have in the service manual are more than useless. For instance, nowhere does it explain exactly where the wheel goes. I seen pics and read on the bottom and the top. Cant be both. I included a couple pics of how i have i set right now.

Also included a pic of my living room which has my old lady hotter than a fresh f*ck*d duck in a minnow bucket.

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By the way, what is that small little pin by the wheel? Looks like it is to hold the ratchet device in but installed is not close to it. I broke it off but had another one as I have several engines. So I used the another shift mechanism.

Video before bike messed up

Now I had a hell of a time getting the shift forks in with the output shaft and it would still shift. Spent several days trying to figure out the problem.

Not sure what it was but one morning started working. Would shift. So I install the input shaft making sure everything is in bottom half of the case and everything in the neutral position. Mind u I have the engine upside down and have the screaming eagle heads installed and using the technique i read somewhere on here about using some old head bolts and cutting the heads off and using them as guides went that route. I used the retainers for the input shaft thrust bushing to hold the input shaft in place and used a bolt and some zip ties to make sure output shaft stayed in place.

Saying a prayer to the VROD God i proceed to marry the case taking care not to anger the screaming eagle heads and having them spit out the valve shims in protest.

Got all the case bolts installed and guess what? Now it wont shift. At all. Notta.

AFter making up half a dozen new swear words and trying to figure out how to make it my old lady's fault this is happening (that was an epic fail and the sofa is uncomfortable) I disassembled everything and started over. SLowly i put everything back together making sure it would shift after every single thing I did.

Married the case, Still shifts. Flipped the motor. Still shifts. I'm doing all this in my living room for practicality and comfort and convenience. Have the bike lift right in the center of the living room and not everyone in the house is happy about that. In fact one of us is down right pissed off about it... and that is not me.... lol

And I digress..

Get the motor in frame. Still shifts. Put the bike completely back together and pushed her outside and decided to wait till morning to start her.

Still shifts.

Next morning goto start her. CLick is all i get. So went thru the usual. Went and bought a new battery. CLick. Went and bought a new starter relay. Click.

Then I realized the engine was stuck. ANd now she wont shift at all.

So she is back in my living room and about to take her apart AGAIN and figure out what the hell.

Any advice on what the issue is? It would help me get her back on the road and probably save my marriage. Included some pics. I have customized every single thing on this bike I think. Next might put a supercharger on her. I have the killer glass now not pictured and frame is now powder coated.



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This might explain some of it. By the way, that small pin can be cut off, since any new replacements have eliminated it anyway. That spring detachment problem was eliminated in 05 and current replacements have a longer spring, so it' can't detach. Makes shift shaft replacement a non event then. As for the drum, shift forks, when trans is placed in neutral will self explain the groove interface to the shift forks. As for engine lock up, did you note the balancer timing? Other then that, drum and fork timing is off placing the trans in two gears at the same time. Testing starter with clutch in or out will confirm which it is. Vid shows shift testing before mating the case halves up.
Ron
 

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Hell of a story - I should have used the word living room instead of garage for the snap ring to fly across and I would have hit 100%. Sorry. :ROFLMAO: reminds me of my old Honda CR125 racing days 2nd and 6th gear would shatter and apart she'd come AGAIN, but crank seal would get folded under going together and it would suck tranny oil into the engine and burn it like a mosquito fogger. Back apart, new seal, pray to the Elsinore Gods she'd be fixed. Repeat. Got to be as routine as changing my underwear. The good old days in 1975. Have you looked closely at the photo's below in " Cases Split - Now what ? " might help you out. I've got my 1250 cases in the garage and I'll go look but the shift drum is removed so limited 3 dimensional blueprint for you. I'm very interested in this though as I'm going to be reassembling it with the guts of my '06 R engine if I ever stop riding it and get the time to break it all down. Make sure you aren't mixing shift parts from pre and post improved shift engines. What are the age of your engines are they all pre improvement ? Also you can get an improved shift shaft from Fredy or Fitzgerald Motorsports for less than $ 130 might be a good investment to order one while you figure this out to avoid another repeated repair for a broken shaft. I'll look and see what I can figure out. (y):cool:
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
This might explain some of it. By the way, that small pin can be cut off, since any new replacements have eliminated it anyway. That spring detachment problem was eliminated in 05 and current replacements have a longer spring, so it' can't detach. Makes shift shaft replacement a non event then. As for the drum, shift forks, when trans is placed in neutral will self explain the groove interface to the shift forks. As for engine lock up, did you note the balancer timing? Other then that, drum and fork timing is off placing the trans in two gears at the same time. Testing starter with clutch in or out will confirm which it is. Vid shows shift testing before mating the case halves up.
Ron
yES I HAVE THAT VIDEO. I also downloaded fred ee video, the guy that does the superchargers. He has video of teardown. I reversed the vid and slowed everything down even.

Engine was locked becuase the crankshaft bolt had barely caught the edge of the counter balancer. I was off by a few teeth it appears.

Nothing damaged.

Now is the roller in the right spot in the pics I provided?

This all started when I had the bright idea to put a supercharger on the bike like fredee has.

My goal was to get 215-225 hp out of her.

So with a fresh PPP loan in my pocket off I went.

She dynoed at 219. Could have got more but I thought I heard a sound I didnt like. Riding her home I heard a sound again.

I goosed the throttle as I have Rhinehart Racing exhuast and it is very loud and BOOM! She locks up.

After pushing her a mile and a half home I start taking her apart and Im embarrased to admit what I did.

Putting her back together after getting the supercharger on her (and Im pretty sure the clock said beer:30) it seems "someone" miscalcuted in installing the cam chain on the front cylinder by one tooth.

And as luck would have it the piston hit the intake valve, broke it off in the piston, put a hole in the piston and broke the cylinder wall in several places.

All told so far over $15,000 f*** up.
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Roller is in the right spot. Installing the forks will determine if the drum is in the right spot. Basically if the correctly located forks fit in the drum grooves it's all correct. Gear set install dog to fork next. At that point depending on drum rotation spot, it will be in some gear or neutral. Cycle through the gears with shift arm to check operation. Vid actually covers all of this.
Ron
 
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