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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
After installing the two nuts that fell of the rear cylinder manifols studs I did the smoke test for leaks and all was good till I saw a drop of condensation hit the garage floor where the slipons clamp to the header pipe.

I removed the heat shields and felt around the clamps. Turns out that I have several small leak where the cuts are made in the slipon inlet to allow the clamp to squash it to the head pipe.

The clamps were torqued to 45ft/lbs and are not getting the job done.
What are my options?
 

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VRSC est -03
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1 mm thick copper or steel plate. 1"wide x 6" long. Bend into a circle, place it under the clamp.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
1 mm thick copper or steel plate. 1"wide x 6" long. Bend into a circle, place it under the clamp.
Thanks for the idea, I'll give it a try.
 

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Those clamps are a one time use only clamp. So says the H-D dealer and I believe them. I get two maybe three installs before they can't be tightened enough to seal.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Not what I meant at all. The slip-ons have cheap poor fitting joints. Almost all of them do. I you want quality joints that fit perfectly it costs$$. But really, it's not a big deal. If you aren't hearing the noise or burning something it's not a problem, they almost all leak.
I was being a wise ass about the Ducati :)

I would not have noticed if I had not had the problem with the exhaust flange. Once I start an investigation I have to check the whole system which I did. Now that I know the slip joints are leaking I have to do my best to correct it.
The slipons were not cheap @ 550.00 US dollars but you never know what you are going to get until it's in your hand. There is not a lot of detailed info on the subject for our bikes.
Thanks for the response.
 

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After installing the two nuts that fell of the rear cylinder manifols studs I did the smoke test for leaks and all was good till I saw a drop of condensation hit the garage floor where the slipons clamp to the header pipe.

I removed the heat shields and felt around the clamps. Turns out that I have several small leak where the cuts are made in the slipon inlet to allow the clamp to squash it to the head pipe.

The clamps were torqued to 45ft/lbs and are not getting the job done.
What are my options?
If you are talking slip ons like Supertraps, I had to cut 4 more additional slots. I also used high temp ultra copper silicone in the slip joint. 4 years, no leaks and the extra slits allow the clamps to tighten it up better. Slip fits are notorious for leaking even if the fit is tight but never had one leak with ultra copper. Clean the mating joints with acetone first. Yes they can be taken apart later if needed.
Ron
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
If you are talking slip ons like Supertraps, I had to cut 4 more additional slots. I also used high temp ultra copper silicone in the slip joint. 4 years, no leaks and the extra slits allow the clamps to tighten it up better. Slip fits are notorious for leaking even if the fit is tight but never had one leak with ultra copper. Clean the mating joints with acetone first. Yes they can be taken apart later if needed.
Ron
Thanks Ron, I could not find any confirmation in my searching about removing slipons after using ulta copper. As always you are a great help.
I have freedom slipons and they have 4 slots. The problem is the slots go right to the muffler body where there is a nice solid bead of weld around the circumference. The inlet nipple is 7/8 long and the clamp is 1" wide so I get coverage but the clamp cannot crush the area closest to the weld. I sure Ultra copper will work for me too.
 

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Thanks Ron, I could not find any confirmation in my searching about removing slipons after using ulta copper. As always you are a great help.
I have freedom slipons and they have 4 slots. The problem is the slots go right to the muffler body where there is a nice solid bead of weld around the circumference. The inlet nipple is 7/8 long and the clamp is 1" wide so I get coverage but the clamp cannot crush the area closest to the weld. I sure Ultra copper will work for me too.
It works quite well. Clean the surfaces, tighten it all up and wipe all squeeze out off. Give it an overnight cure and blast off. The standard wiggle, twist method will break the bond if removal is needed.
Sometimes you wonder who designs this shit. I wasn't happy with how Supertrap sized the pipe. It was looser then I liked and the four slits just didn't allow the clamp to snug it up. Four extra slits in between the originals worked just ducky. I suppose a second option was to get some brass shim stock the right thickness and from a sleeve between the trap inlet pipe and the nipple on the third volume. Then the original slots likely would have allowed full tightening. I still would use ultra copper for total sealing the joints.
Ron
Ron
 

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The Massive Pr1ck
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I was being a wise ass about the Ducati :)

I would not have noticed if I had not had the problem with the exhaust flange. Once I start an investigation I have to check the whole system which I did. Now that I know the slip joints are leaking I have to do my best to correct it.
The slipons were not cheap @ 550.00 US dollars but you never know what you are going to get until it's in your hand. There is not a lot of detailed info on the subject for our bikes.
Thanks for the response.
By cheap I meant the designer and manufacturer cheap out on material and fabrication. Funny how it rarely (if ever) translates into lower cost to the consumer.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
It works quite well. Clean the surfaces, tighten it all up and wipe all squeeze out off. Give it an overnight cure and blast off. The standard wiggle, twist method will break the bond if removal is needed.
Sometimes you wonder who designs this shit. I wasn't happy with how Supertrap sized the pipe. It was looser then I liked and the four slits just didn't allow the clamp to snug it up. Four extra slits in between the originals worked just ducky. I suppose a second option was to get some brass shim stock the right thickness and from a sleeve between the trap inlet pipe and the nipple on the third volume. Then the original slots likely would have allowed full tightening. I still would use ultra copper for total sealing the joints.
Ron
Ron
The ultra copper worked nicely on my Freedom slip ons. I ordered and installed new hardware for the heat shields also, cheap insurance to prevent possible loss of heat shield when flying along the highway. Part of my regular routine will be to check the manifold nuts for sure. Now if it ever stops raining around here I'll get some more miles on.
 
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