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Discussion Starter #1
I purchased a 2003 VRSCA last summer, a few months ago I removed the rear wheel to have a new tire installed. When removing the axle I noticed the proper clip and nut were missing. The threaded end of the axle Is damaged, now the axle has a hole in it and there is a castle nut with a split pin going thru the nut and axle. When I torque the nut to the proper spec. the groove in the nut and hole in the axle were not lined up. I had to further tighten the nut to install the pin. I have 3,000 miles on it since then, the wheel spins free with no binding. Is it better to leave it alone or replace the nut and pin with a locking or jam nut? Will this type of nut prevent an accurate torque reading?
 

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I purchased a 2003 VRSCA last summer, a few months ago I removed the rear wheel to have a new tire installed. When removing the axle I noticed the proper clip and nut were missing. The threaded end of the axle Is damaged, now the axle has a hole in it and there is a castle nut with a split pin going thru the nut and axle. When I torque the nut to the proper spec. the groove in the nut and hole in the axle were not lined up. I had to further tighten the nut to install the pin. I have 3,000 miles on it since then, the wheel spins free with no binding. Is it better to leave it alone or replace the nut and pin with a locking or jam nut? Will this type of nut prevent an accurate torque reading?
If it was mine I would be looking for a good S/H replacement axle and nut. There are plenty around.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I haven’t found the correct type so far. I seems the one I need has a smaller diameter near the thread than the type I have found. I’ll continue to search. Thanks.
 

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If it was mine I would be looking for a good S/H replacement axle and nut. There are plenty around.
If there's a washer, just sand it until the torque and castle line up or replace what you feel best with. The stock nut and a clip is a joke as the clip does nothing to prevent nut loosening. Many an aircraft engine is held on with a castle and cotter pin in the bolts, not something stupid like HD came up with. Hell, my last engine I rebuilt had cotter pins and castle nuts for the rod bolts. If it didn't line up, go to the top end of the torque spec, was the solution.
Ron
 

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Discussion Starter #5
That is an excellent solution, there is no washer but the flange is thick enough to grind until it lines up. Thanks so much.
 

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You could get a shim or 2 as well, that might be enough to line it up. Can get them at your local Home Depot or hardware store. BTW, I like the idea of a castle nut on these better then the stock shaft end.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Your shim idea sounds like the way to go. I’m going to buy an assortment and dial the torque spec in properly then install the cotter pin. Thank you.
 
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