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The plenum must be tightened to the heads
Only way I can see to do it as well and not that difficult to do. Not sure what arrangement you came up with but longer bolts and spacers comes to mind. Then it can't lift the mid section of the flange as the distance between the head and plenum is locked in. The stock intake sockets were never designed for boost or at least boost beyond a certain psi.
Ron
 

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Only way I can see to do it as well and not that difficult to do. Not sure what arrangement you came up with but longer bolts and spacers comes to mind. Then it can't lift the mid section of the flange as the distance between the head and plenum is locked in. The stock intake sockets were never designed for boost or at least boost beyond a certain psi.
Yes that could be feasible. Or little special extended bolts where you first tighten rubber flanges to heads and then there is spacer portion and inner thread for plenum connection.

To me intake rubber boot fixing is bit problematic since there is only two M6 bolt in left and right side of the each intake. Now heavy plenum can shake back and forth in longitudinal direction and there is chance for leak in opposite sides. At least if flange would have been made of stiffer material it might be better but joining e.g. aluminium flange to rubber boot might be difficult task.

However there is another place to do some RD. Have you JD solution for this already?
 

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Only way I can see to do it as well and not that difficult to do. Not sure what arrangement you came up with but longer bolts and spacers comes to mind. Then it can't lift the mid section of the flange as the distance between the head and plenum is locked in. The stock intake sockets were never designed for boost or at least boost beyond a certain psi.
Ron
Yes that could be feasible. Or little special extended bolts where you first tighten rubber flanges to heads and then there is spacer portion and inner thread for plenum connection.

To me intake rubber boot fixing is bit problematic since there is only two M6 bolt in left and right side of the each intake. Now heavy plenum can shake back and forth in longitudinal direction and there is chance for leak in opposite sides. At least if flange would have been made of stiffer material it might be better but joining e.g. aluminium flange to rubber boot might be difficult task.

However there is another place to do some RD. Have you JD solution for this already?
I don't see how to do that as the throttle body itself covers those areas of the rubber boot. It would have to be a very weird bracket that sits over the boot holes, then bolts through the bracket/boot/heads then "reaches up" and around the throttle body to some attachment point on the plenum.

I think the real solution is o-ringing the heads at the intake areas AND an aluminum version of the "boot" + rubber. I can sort of picture this, but I can't see it being that cost effective or possibly work that well (basically moving the leak point higher up).

Another thought I had during R&D was to weld flanges right to the head with a bead roll on them. Then you could clamp boots to the flanges and to the throttle body. That WOULD work, but material selection would be a challenge not to mention you would really want to remove the heads to perform such modifications due to the heat involved with TIG welding.

IS this really an issue at "sane" (I say sane = 10 psi or less on these bikes)? I haven't detected a leak at that point in my testing (read: I can hit my target psi level without dropoff)....I have a smoke test machine at my disposal I can play with, but that's not pressurized of course. I could 3d print a test rig flange that I can pressurize with a bike pump to test for leaks (similar to what I did for the throttle body)....but then again I suspect boost will leak past valves/etc so no real "static" way to test this.
 

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IS this really an issue at "sane" (I say sane = 10 psi or less on these bikes)? I haven't detected a leak at that point in my testing (read: I can hit my target psi level without dropoff)....I have a smoke test machine at my disposal I can play with, but that's not pressurized of course. I could 3d print a test rig flange that I can pressurize with a bike pump to test for leaks (similar to what I did for the throttle body)....but then again I suspect boost will leak past valves/etc so no real "static" way to test this.
Yes that I have tried to figure out too. I have not suffered noticeable leaks so far in the streets but my final goal will be around 17-22psi. Of course not all the time but have to try to design parts well above to avoid problems in lower boost levels.
 

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I think the real solution is o-ringing the heads at the intake areas AND an aluminum version of the "boot" + rubber. I can sort of picture this, but I can't see it being that cost effective or possibly work that well (basically moving the leak point higher up).
That might work since there is some free height for making AL boot + plain rubber.
 

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Hey guys. So I have a slight leak I’m talking 1-2 tables spoons a week leak. Out of the crank output shaft seal. Do you guys happen to know where to get another one? I haven’t pulled the cover off to inspect the seal in great detail yet since it’s my main transportation. So trying to procure one before I pull it out.


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Well it’s a 60x45x7 double lip seal. Just to help!


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Did you get one with a spring (called a "garter") inside? I use a 45x52x4 (innerXouterXdepth) in my design that's a double lip with a garter. Durable as hell. I wonder if he cheaped out on the seal type he included, then again it gets hard to source shaft seals if you go too far off the beaten path (between the supercharger project and the throttle body project I have stories....). Makes me think he had trouble sourcing the more compact seals as there is no reason to need a 60mm seal (the inner is always 45mm if you use an output shaft coupler with similar design due to needing to fit over the crank bolt like a socket....same design I employed).

If you haven't checked them out, look at "AVX". They make some very unique sizes and great quality (and will actually sell single pieces to you!).
 
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