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Correction.. its a bov in the picture that i installed but as Freudie recommended:
Did you contact 928motorsports and have them make it work for a direct screw in to the plenum and did it fit properly seems to be pretty clearance around the current 1" barb? or did you have them make a 1inch barb for hose? I currently have the HolyMoto system in a box and looking to install it this winter hopefully.... fingers crossed this will be the year for me.
 

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Discussion Starter #82
Did you contact 928motorsports and have them make it work for a direct screw in to the plenum and did it fit properly seems to be pretty clearance around the current 1" barb? or did you have them make a 1inch barb for hose? I currently have the HolyMoto system in a box and looking to install it this winter hopefully.... fingers crossed this will be the year for me.
They couldn’t make the limiter to fit the plenum so i installed a cheap bov instead but it doesn’t work properly so i took it off..
Looking forward to follow your build! Are you going to change ecu to daytona twintec?


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They couldn’t make the limiter to fit the plenum so i installed a cheap bov instead but it doesn’t work properly so i took it off..
Looking forward to follow your build! Are you going to change ecu to daytona twintec?


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did you have them make you a 1" hose fitting or are you not going with this limiter? I am going to keep the stock ECU and run dynojet piggyback system. i have a twintec that i got with the kit but id like to use the dynojet so i can do 2 step and the quick shift. but if my tuner finds the dyno is insufficient i can probably move to the twintec.
 

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Thank’s i’m going to try hylomar.
I saw it when i put pressure in the plenum and sprayed leakfinder all over that there was two leaks.. front manifold gasket leaked obove 50-58kpa and rear throttleshaft leaks all the way
which Hylomar did you go with, and did it fix your leak issue?
 

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did you have them make you a 1" hose fitting or are you not going with this limiter? I am going to keep the stock ECU and run dynojet piggyback system. i have a twintec that i got with the kit but id like to use the dynojet so i can do 2 step and the quick shift. but if my tuner finds the dyno is insufficient i can probably move to the twintec.
Yes I had them machine the threads down and they put a small barb on the end. I have run this limiter most of this season. (1st season with sc)
I am running my stock ECM. There is little way I would use any other tuner. I am running a PCVPTI with autotune module and wide band 02's. Was quite the learning curve, but all said & done i firmly believe this is the way to go for these bikes & boosted. Could be a long story, but suffice it to say I am VERY happy with the performance of this setup. IMO, you couldn't give me a DTT

John
 

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Just finished quickly reading through this thread.
When using a linear 5 bar fuel pressure regulator "fpr" with a boost port (i.e. Bosch), the fuel pressure will be 5 bar plus your boost pressure. So it could be even 6 bar or higher. The OEM fuel lines are not suitable for that and can slip out and then you crash and burn. So better fit high pressure fuel lines and fittings. By the way, you must connect the fpr boost port to the underside of the throttle bodies in order to reduce fuel pressure under 5 bar during idle or partial load, this will help to tune it a lot.
 

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Another comment I have is on the crankcase venting: I can't think of a way to generate considerable crankcase underpressure on a supercharged V-Rod that would improve ring seal compared to atmospheric venting. The best location would be between air filter and supercharger/turbo inlet, but that will not create much vacuum.
 

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Another comment I have is on the crankcase venting: I can't think of a way to generate considerable crankcase underpressure on a supercharged V-Rod that would improve ring seal compared to atmospheric venting. The best location would be between air filter and supercharger/turbo inlet, but that will not create much vacuum.
I've designed a one way breather valve as a direct drop in, into the stock canister, so incorporating it is an easy task . It's yet to be built and tested on a dyno however. There should be gains to running the case pressure near 0- slight negative and why the Revolution never came with that is still a mystery to me, since just about every other single or twin uses a one way breather valve. Ring seal being the biggest advantage as well as less oil carry over into the breather area. Likely pick up a couple of ponies as a result also. Like they say....... stay tuned.
Ron
 

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hi Ron, is that for a non-boosted application? Canister = stock air filter housing?
Can you please share a general arrangement sketch?
 

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hi Ron, is that for a non-boosted application? Canister = stock air filter housing?
Can you please share a general arrangement sketch?
Yes, it's designed as a drop in unit, into the slightly modified stock breather canister, to be the most painless install possible. The concept should work for boost as well but as you know, that would need to be custom built and custom fit, since the lower air box is gone at that point. Due to an arrangement I made with the manufacturer that will build the proto and test it , I can't really share details. He is a member here, so I will leave that up to him if he chooses to do so. At this point , it's build and test it.
Ron
 

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I tried one of these negative pressure crank vents but unfortunately it did not worked me well. It ended up positive pressure with huge smoke cloud in the traffic lights. I took valve parts from inside and let canister freely breath to air. Same time I put smaller restrictor to turbo oil inlet. Not sure which one was root cause but never put valve parts back again. It is a bit shame it ended up this way. Hopefully you will get better results from the one way breathers.


606046
 

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I tried one of these negative pressure crank vents but unfortunately it did not worked me well. It ended up positive pressure with huge smoke cloud in the traffic lights. I took valve parts from inside and let canister freely breath to air. Same time I put smaller restrictor to turbo oil inlet. Not sure which one was root cause but never put valve parts back again. It is a bit shame it ended up this way. Hopefully you will get better results from the one way breathers.


View attachment 606046
The issue with that one is return oil not going to happen. The holy grail is to get both valving and return oil back into the engine. Not easy.
Ron
 

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Just finished quickly reading through this thread.
When using a linear 5 bar fuel pressure regulator "fpr" with a boost port (i.e. Bosch), the fuel pressure will be 5 bar plus your boost pressure. So it could be even 6 bar or higher. The OEM fuel lines are not suitable for that and can slip out and then you crash and burn. So better fit high pressure fuel lines and fittings. By the way, you must connect the fpr boost port to the underside of the throttle bodies in order to reduce fuel pressure under 5 bar during idle or partial load, this will help to tune it a lot.
Have any proof of this besides opinion? I say this as I have been running this configuration for quite some time (and yes using the oem vac port on the throttle body itself as a reference) with zero issues. I know Richard (TTS) has been selling this option for a few years as well and haven't heard of a single fuel line failure.

Please let us know IF you had this issue (or have data) as I certainly am concerned. FYI: This would be the first time I've ever seen an oem fuel line have such issues on any platform. I've gone way beyond stock pressure on almost every vehicle I've raced/tweaked over the years (and that includes some serious 80's garbage) and never had an issue. Not doubting you, but I'm not in belief unless you have some data or experience.

More stuff:

Jan, heven't seen you post in ages.

Wanted to let you know I fixed the Delphi baro issue by creating a circuit to modify the 2 bar MAP sensor voltage to the correct 1 bar map sensor voltage (what the ECU expects) when under 1500 RPM. The ECU is only sampling at that level (and key on engine off as a baseline, which I cover as well). Cost me a total of $8.00 and some time with my Fluke to get it nailed down. The hardest part was ignoring the misinformation regarding how it works that certain people told me about.
 

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Another comment I have is on the crankcase venting: I can't think of a way to generate considerable crankcase underpressure on a supercharged V-Rod that would improve ring seal compared to atmospheric venting. The best location would be between air filter and supercharger/turbo inlet, but that will not create much vacuum.
Using a nipple right after the air filter on either a turbo or supercharger is a fantastic source of vacuum. Not sure why you think otherwise. If you are bored, put a vac gauge on a nipple in that location while you go for a test ride. You'll be surprised.

NOTE: On big engines (big blocks/etc) they use the exhaust flow with an angle cut nipple on the exhaust downpipe(s) as a source of vac to scavenge. That's another option, but our engines likely don't flow enough to make that practical (nor cosmetically pleasing).
 

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Have any proof of this besides opinion? I say this as I have been running this configuration for quite some time (and yes using the oem vac port on the throttle body itself as a reference) with zero issues. I know Richard (TTS) has been selling this option for a few years as well and haven't heard of a single fuel line failure.

Please let us know IF you had this issue (or have data) as I certainly am concerned. FYI: This would be the first time I've ever seen an oem fuel line have such issues on any platform. I've gone way beyond stock pressure on almost every vehicle I've raced/tweaked over the years (and that includes some serious 80's garbage) and never had an issue. Not doubting you, but I'm not in belief unless you have some data or experience.
Unfortunately, for the V-Rod there have been numerous fuel line issues reported so far, do a forum search for "Fuel line fail" and you will find many reports like:
The OEM fuel lines of the early V-Rod models were known to get damaged by rubbing on the frame or spark plug connector.
The plastic arrestors become worn out when you operate them often and then tend to slip out.
Broken fuel flange nipple.


I cannot tell what the max allowed working pressure is, but common sense should tell that sooner or later you ask for trouble if you go up to 6 bar instead of just 3.
By the way also the fuel injectors are prone to slip out of the holder if not propperly fixed. Some use bigger injectors but the injector arrestor needs to be modified for it.

p.s. congratulations on solving the delphi barometric pressure problem!
 

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By the way also the fuel injectors are prone to slip out of the holder if not propperly fixed. Some use bigger injectors but the injector arrestor needs to be modified for it.
Yes agreed. At least a little bigger size Bosch 1500cc injectors required completely new fixing clip. I bend it from the thin metal sheet and shaped it by dremel. Also followed Karzza's recommendation to use thin spacer bushing between head and injector so they do not drop accidentially too deep. Then it will leak from rail side. This fitting has to be done with extreme care when bigger injectors are used.
 

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Discussion Starter #99
which Hylomar did you go with, and did it fix your leak issue?
I havent solved my leak, i found one more issue that my supercharger pusches the plenum back under boost and bends the intake manifold gaskets creating more leak..
I don’t know if hylomar is the way to go..


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