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Discussion Starter #61
If engine is otherwise running ok maybe couple of runs more to warm engine and getting new logs for inspecting. You cannot show more than two values at the same time in the graph but you can take more pics in the same event when there is different values shown. Many times zooming too close might hide some valuable information around. When you inspect logs check all the values which might be related to problem.

Maybe I would detach CKP-sensor just in case for cleaning. End is magnetic and there can be stuck metal chips. Also if it has rubbed to rotor air gap is not right. Too big air gap is bit tricky to measure. It needs some special tools. Vernier caliper does not fit there. CKP is located at the low left side behind alternator cable grommet. No worry from spilling oil too much.

Flickering cold and warm engine status might be because your engine ET was just in the limit. Check your ET when this is happening and compare it to value what you have set for warm engine in advanced user settings in your tune file. I have somewhere mentioned about using hysteresis in good ecu programming but let's not get there since user cannot do anything about it.
Yes im going for another run today, after cleaning ckp sensor
Do you know if i can erase old logs in the ecu?


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You do not have to. It will write over older data and keep 60min for logging. Maybe easiest way to separate shorter runs in the log is where ET is changing vertically from higher value to lower.
 

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Discussion Starter #63
You do not have to. It will write over older data and keep 60min for logging. Maybe easiest way to separate shorter runs in the log is where ET is changing vertically from higher value to lower.
Tried to clear data buffer in the log window.. what happens, ecu lost contact and nothing works


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Discussion Starter #64
Tried to clear data buffer in the log window.. what happens, ecu lost contact and nothing works


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Took out the ecu and plug it back in and now it works again.. somethings happens when i tried to clear databuffer..


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Shoot. Hopefully it did not corrupted once and for all. It is obvious that it should not do that if you did not interrupt connection while it was open. If the engine does not start anymore and you can't open connection it is time to contact DTT customer service for ecm repair. Perhaps those problems you had was beginning of the end. Strength!
 

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Use battery charger and/or take out lights fuse and fuel tank connector when you do many down or uploads with vrfi without running the engine.
 

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Discussion Starter #68

At full boost i have a major leak on front manifold gasket.. any ideas how to solve that? Guessing everyone with stock throttlebody and boost have this problem?


Throttleshafts leaks as well as freudi said.. but i think the major problem is manifoldsgaskets.


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At full boost i have a major leak on front manifold gasket.. any ideas how to solve that? Guessing everyone with stock throttlebody and boost have this problem?


Throttleshafts leaks as well as freudi said.. but i think the major problem is manifoldsgaskets.


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How did you determine that. If one or the other leaks, the boost pressure will drop below spec but both will still receive the same amount of boost. Otherwords the leak won't be specific to one cyl. I've read about the odd one leaking here but haven't followed up with what the cure was other then replacing them with new ones.

Ron
 

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Discussion Starter #70
How did you determine that. If one or the other leaks, the boost pressure will drop below spec but both will still receive the same amount of boost. Otherwords the leak won't be specific to one cyl. I've read about the odd one leaking here but haven't followed up with what the cure was other then replacing them with new ones.

Ron
Yes ofcourse its the same boost on both cylinders but i have a leak on the front gasket wich probobly is the reason why the boost drops at 58kpa


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Yes ofcourse its the same boost on both cylinders but i have a leak on the front gasket wich probobly is the reason why the boost drops at 58kpa


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Short of an aftermarket boot design (and possibly oring-ing the the heads) I got nothing to fix that. I have heard of random goos and sprays/etc. Hylomar is a good idea possibly (google it, it's popular for head gaskets). Would have to mask off critical shit with tape though for sure before spraying. Also, not impressed with the clamping force of the bolts there........IDEALLY you would have the heads removed, a nice lip/bead of metal put around the openings then use an aftermarket (or maybe modified oem boot) for some clamped style attachment. This is probably something I will attack next year as I finally have the engine back in the frame.
 

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Discussion Starter #73
I stand erected...I didn't know it came in caulk type format as well (always had the spray version): Non-Setting Compounds

Definitely worth investigating. Rolls uses this!
Thank’s i’m going to try hylomar.
I saw it when i put pressure in the plenum and sprayed leakfinder all over that there was two leaks.. front manifold gasket leaked obove 50-58kpa and rear throttleshaft leaks all the way


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Thank’s i’m going to try hylomar.
I saw it when i put pressure in the plenum and sprayed leakfinder all over that there was two leaks.. front manifold gasket leaked obove 50-58kpa and rear throttleshaft leaks all the way


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Yep! It's almost like this bike wasn't designed for boost (chuckling).
 

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Yes. Those stock rubber boots are garbage and the design is poor. Only two screws in opposite sides per boot. Third is for fuel rail. Especially if the plenum is heavy there is major concern that it can shake and twist lengthwise sealing surfaces. I used some Loctite gasket sealant there just to make it sure it holds most of the pressure. I have dynoed it with 1,2bar boost. There must have been some leakage at least from the TB shafts. Rear one is axially bit too loose when the blades are open. Have to fix this in the winter time. Freudies idea using ball bearings and shaft seals there is great.
 

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Not very familiar with the Rotrex type superchargers but is there some kind of pressure valve, bleeder or wastegate used or is top boost adjusted only with gear ratios?
 

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Discussion Starter #77
Not very familiar with the Rotrex type superchargers but is there some kind of pressure valve, bleeder or wastegate used or is top boost adjusted only with gear ratios?
Its only adjusted by gear ratios.. i tried to put a wastegate on the plenum but i think some kind of pressure valve is better to take the top end of..



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Ok. So it cuts boost above certain limit but does not act like bov when you close throttle quickly after boost and prevent decel surging. I am try to understand what happens in the intake manifold in different occasions.
 

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Discussion Starter #79
Ok. So it cuts boost above certain limit but does not act like bov when you close throttle quickly after boost and prevent decel surging. I am try to understand what happens in the intake manifold in different occasions.
Correction.. its a bov in the picture that i installed but as Freudie recommended:


That one cuts only the top end!
Bov in the picture opens everytime there is vac


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Ok. As I see it your setup is good. Before you had this leakage did you adjust or test when limiter starts bleeding.
 
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