wow ,brand new engine for 1250 dollars,sure got a good deal there.
set up for drag racing
Hello im kinda new to the forum but have had my 2007 VRSCAW for about 3 years now. I have been getting the itch to get back into drag racing, and even though its not the fastest bike I own it seems like it might be the easiest to race. Anyway I just purchased a brand new '13 night rod engine for $1250 shipped on ebay. Id like to run well into the 10's or better on engine alone. no power adders. Ive read through about 50 or so pages in the high performance section of this forum and ive learned a lot. So my build plans for the new motor as follows: 58mm tb, destroyer style stacks, ported heads with 1mm larger valves, Jones 500" lift cams, higher compression (12 or 14 to 1?) and possibly a welded 1/4" stroker crank. Id like to finish it off with a Destroyer style exhaust. Any advice by people who have been there and done this would be greatly appreciated. BTW I have a wheely bar and am going to try a Hoosier 240 40 18 drag radial unless someone has a better idea. im guessing this motor wont be done in time for next season, so for the remainder of this year and next I plan on racing with the original 1130 motor and working on the chassis and tuning what ive got. thanks
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one $ per cc. LOL
OK, I guess I should have put S.E. II in the title, then maybe someone would have responded... LOL but speaking od S.E. II cams after literally searching this sight for hours I finally found the lift and duration specs on them and really they look so close in lift and duration specs to the apparently unobtainable Jones stg III cams that I don't think it would make a measurable difference anyway, and, wouldn't you know it? I just bought a set on ebay for $86 shipped. Since I was somewhat on the fence about going with a 1/4 stroke before due to expense I think I will definitely go with it now.
The difference between the SE and the Jones is not so much about lift and duration it is more about base circle.OK, I guess I should have put S.E. II in the title, then maybe someone would have responded... LOL but speaking od S.E. II cams after literally searching this sight for hours I finally found the lift and duration specs on them and really they look so close in lift and duration specs to the apparently unobtainable Jones stg III cams that I don't think it would make a measurable difference anyway, and, wouldn't you know it? I just bought a set on ebay for $86 shipped. Since I was somewhat on the fence about going with a 1/4 stroke before due to expense I think I will definitely go with it now.
Yeah, I get the whole small base circle thing but I know that guys on here have run them for thousands of miles with no problems, I'm mostly going to be running it 1/4 Mike at a time and with the best valve train parts I can find.
If you want "the best valve train parts I can find" then you should be looking to Jones or Fitzgerald cams.Yeah, I get the whole small base circle thing but I know that guys on here have run them for thousands of miles with no problems, I'm mostly going to be running it 1/4 Mike at a time and with the best valve train parts I can find.
Yes there are guys who have run S/E cams for some mileage but the fact is when you grind the heel of the cam in order to get extra lift (as S/E) then the extra stress on the rest of the valve train is increased dramatically, as many have found out. Add to that the fact that you need shims outside of the normal range in order to compensate for the grinding.
The correct way to produce a cam is to start with a blank made for the job as the Jones cams are, then you do have the best.
Good luck whichever way you go.
Well, apparently Jones came are impossible to get, I don't know about Fitzgerald cams but I'll check out what he has. I know there is an outfit or two grinding welded cams but after my experience with them I'll pass.
I wouldn't write Jones cams as being impossible. Earlier this year Mike said he was doing a run of 25-30 sets, and end of June he said 15 sets were sold and there was a post on a thread end of July that said he hadn't started grinding yet. My guess is there is probably still some sets available.Well, apparently Jones came are impossible to get, I don't know about Fitzgerald cams but I'll check out what he has. I know there is an outfit or two grinding welded cams but after my experience with them I'll pass.
You are right to pass on the welded ones, I have seen some pretty bad wreckages over the years caused by failures of those!
Oh and another reason (which I forgot about earlier)for using Jones over S/E is the reverb in the throttle bodies. S/E destroy throttle body shafts but Jones cams don't produce these pulses.
Jones
Yeah ive tried to get ahold of him, no luck at all.
Yeah ive tried to get ahold of him, no luck at all.
Pretty decent setup IMO, good luck with the build! Are you going to make everything DIY?
You might also get: Stronger 2nd gear with a little bit different ratio so it splits the difference between 1st gear and 3rd gear and backcut the gears so you hit every shift without issue.
Better clutch with a billet clutch basket.
adjustable rev limiter for the launch at the light.
Chain drive so you can get the gear ratio spot on.
Light weight wheels and remove weight everywhere you can.
Data logger and tuner so you can get the tune spot on for the elevation and temps you are running in.
The setup you are talking about will easily run mid tens and if you get the rev limiter set up right for the launch with the wheelie bar you could go low tens. I ran several 10.5's with a very similar setup minus the rev launch control and with wheelie bar.
Better clutch with a billet clutch basket.
adjustable rev limiter for the launch at the light.
Chain drive so you can get the gear ratio spot on.
Light weight wheels and remove weight everywhere you can.
Data logger and tuner so you can get the tune spot on for the elevation and temps you are running in.
The setup you are talking about will easily run mid tens and if you get the rev limiter set up right for the launch with the wheelie bar you could go low tens. I ran several 10.5's with a very similar setup minus the rev launch control and with wheelie bar.
Thank you McBrite, yes this is all DIY. Its the only way I can afford to do it! LOL!
ELGAVILAN, yes im hoping to get the whole trans done by R&D, two step, chain drive, clutch basket, shifter, etc. not sure what to do about wheels, Im selling the ultra heavy stock VRSCAW wheels and I have a set of the split spoke newer style nightrod wheels, which if im correct are the lightest of the stock wheels? My next issue is cams. I got a set real cheap in Ebay, but im guessing some postal employee must be using them or has listed them on craiglist somewhere by now because they never showed up, just a heavily molested box!! Been trying to get ahold of Jones, with no luck and I refuse to Pay $800+ for a set of welded cams, especially after my V max experience, so.. if I cant get cams maybe part out and sell the whole works go to the dark side and buy a stupid ZX1400 or something... or go back to racing for wheels...
some good news today, found that more S.E.II cams will be available in a few weeks.. wondering if I should buy two? LOL
They are ok for racing but run shitty on closed Loop. You should consider to get a Daytona Twintec ECM which will Support shifter, etc
I'll look into the Daytona twin tech. Seems to be the overall favorite here?
If you don't care about knock detection/logging sure.I'll look into the Daytona twin tech. Seems to be the overall favorite here?
Actually, I do, what would you recommend?
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