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Discussion Starter #1
What is the best location to place a scissor lift jack, on a 2003, to rise the front wheel and to rise the rear wheel?

For the rear wheel, is the metal base below the fuel cel?

For the front wheel, the oil pan/engine base is a little lower than the lower frames. Is that normal or the lower frame is supposed to touch the scissor jack protecting the oil pan?

Thanks,

V-Rod Lift Point 1.jpg V-Rod Lift Point 2.jpg V-Rod Lift Point 3.jpg
 

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What is the best location to place a scissor lift jack, on a 2003, to rise the front wheel and to rise the rear wheel?

For the rear wheel, is the metal base below the fuel cel?

For the front wheel, the oil pan/engine base is a little lower than the lower frames. Is that normal or the lower frame is supposed to touch the scissor jack protecting the oil pan?

Thanks,

View attachment 605076 View attachment 605077 View attachment 605078
There is a break in the Fame towards the rear - I line it up with that.
In your middle picture - where it comes together. I just catch it there where it comes together.
the bike does a wheelie.I have to lift it an extra bit to get the block I made under the rear, then I let it down on the front block - where there is just enough room to catch most of the front block. I used a HomeDepot type yard "railroad tie" with 1 2x4 on top of that.
If you wanna be cautious put a parking block under the rear wheel when you do it and have it in Gear.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thanks Steve!

I just found out that the reason of my engine being a mm lower than the frames is because I have the front mount engine broken.

The bike don't have any strange vibration at all but I was advised to replace the front mount immediately.
Front Mount 1.JPG Front Mount 2.jpg Front Mount 3.jpg Front Mount 4.jpg Front Mount 5.jpg Lower Oil Pan.jpg
 

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What I did was take a piece of 3/4 plywood, cut it about 1 1/2 " wider than the frame rails on each side, cutout a hole for clearance of the vent bump below the fuel cell and cutout a corner for the kickstand frame bracket ( I leave it down while on the stand ). This seats the plywood flat on the frame rails all the way around - and allows the lift to be positioned anywhere front to back with no regard to coming off the frame rails. I've got position marks on the plywood for front and rear lift it works great and the bike is extremely stable when on it, virtually no need for straps although I still install a couple for extra safety, and for pitching when removing the weight of a wheel or forks - As stated I put wood blocks under the tires as required for extra stability - it all works together very well.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Something like this? I tried this setup and it seems very stable when lifting both wheels (pic) or just the front one.

What do you thing about the front engine mount? It seems that it is causing the engine to be lower than it supposed to be.

IMG_9077.jpg
 

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Something like this? I tried this setup and it seems very stable when lifting both wheels (pic) or just the front one.

What do you thing about the front engine mount? It seems that it is causing the engine to be lower than it supposed to be.

View attachment 605146
Engine is a hair lower then the frame rails. For that 1/8" or so, I just jack engine and frame up as a unit. The rubber gives that much no problem.
Ron
 

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That front engine mount looks fried to me - Ron knows all about them & he's dealing with that problem now - give us an update here Ron what else you learned on that fwd mount sagging on your bike ?
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Do you have a picture of your front engine mount?

I just got the replacement part from HD but I will wait. It seems very tricky to replace it. Mainly the left side bolt.

Here are some pics and two videos lifting the bike from the oil pan and then from the frame using a couple of wood blocks.

The new engine mount is a little different from the 2002-2006 models.

The instructions says (for the older OEM) to take away the top washer that goes after the top metal frame.

The bike is running very smooth. I will hate to replace the mount and damaging something else during the process.

 

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That front engine mount looks fried to me - Ron knows all about them & he's dealing with that problem now - give us an update here Ron what else you learned on that fwd mount sagging on your bike ?
Not doing the mounts until winter. I only get vibes at 4200-4500 at the moment. Normal smooth above and below. This can be more from the rear mounts then the front as I see it. The mount replacements looks like a pain in the ass, so for now it can wait. I really don't know what to make of the front mount design. It can break down in the center section but never fail completely as it will sag down only to a certain point where it bottoms on the rubber disc portion. The rears however can go metal to metal and transfer a nasty harsh buz into the bike. There have been a few who changed the front mounts only to find no vibe reduction so it it's smooth, I sure wouldn't go looking for the aggravation of changing it unless really needed.
Ron
 
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