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Discussion Starter #1
Just wondering if any one is using them. Talked with RP they have 2 filters that will work just wondering if the longer one will fit P/N 10-2867 I know the short on will fit P/N 10-2876 but they recommend the longer if it fits. Also how often are you changing your oil? Should I be changing after every weekend of racing. Test and tune nights now worried about.


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Noel
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I use the standard length HD VROD filter, I'm changing the oil every 60 passes, not sure what others are doing, if I am doing too frequently it's worth piece of mind to me, IMHO what you propose is too frequent. The clutch materials and fuel leak down remnants are the primary reason for changing it, chances are the oils viscosity is more than stable at this change frequency.

I've heard of some folks changing more frequently, especially since they are using a lighter weight oil.
 

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I use the standard length HD VROD filter, I'm changing the oil every 60 passes, not sure what others are doing, if I am doing too frequently it's worth piece of mind to me, IMHO what you propose is too frequent. The clutch materials and fuel leak down remnants are the primary reason for changing it, chances are the oils viscosity is more than stable at this change frequency.

I've heard of some folks changing more frequently, especially since they are using a lighter weight oil.
Great insight Noel, you answered a question I hadn't asked yet!

DMF

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Discussion Starter #4
I use the standard length HD VROD filter, I'm changing the oil every 60 passes, not sure what others are doing, if I am doing too frequently it's worth piece of mind to me, IMHO what you propose is too frequent. The clutch materials and fuel leak down remnants are the primary reason for changing it, chances are the oils viscosity is more than stable at this change frequency.

I've heard of some folks changing more frequently, especially since they are using a lighter weight oil.
Thanks for the info. I just didn't know what I should do. I'm going to run the RP HPS 20/50 at $14 a quart it would get pretty expensive real quick. I guess I'll make a spread sheet and start keeping track of my runs. Also I was told to use the blotter test as well to find out when to change the oil. Great info and I'll go that route for the time being.


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Thanks for the info. I just didn't know what I should do. I'm going to run the RP HPS 20/50 at $14 a quart it would get pretty expensive real quick. I guess I'll make a spread sheet and start keeping track of my runs. Also I was told to use the blotter test as well to find out when to change the oil. Great info and I'll go that route for the time being.


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Get it from Amazon. I am getting it from them for 9.99/qt w free shipping.

Jimmy
 

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Oil is the cheapest thing you got on/in your bike (as told to me by the pros). Think how much $$$$ a spun bearing or scuffed cylinder walls would cost. You can't change it too much. Mine starts smelling “fuelie” after a hard weekend of test and tune, qualifying for 3 classes and running eliminations. I start every weekend with a fresh load of oil and a new filter. Gives me a chance to look for tell tail $#!+ in the filter too before I get the catastrophic signal…. "tic, tic, BOOM!".
 
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