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Discussion Starter #1
I’ve noticed I have a lot of oily looking residue on the front and rear valves and down the walls of the throttle bodies, the front valves are gunky looking and the tears are a lot cleaner but shiny with residue. Now my crank case breathers are tied together and vented to the atmosphere below the bike. What can be causing this? First and second pic is rear cylinder


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The coating is from reversion, where the exhaust and intake valves overlap. Some of the exhaust enters the intake at that point and soots these areas up. If the valve head are actually oily, it could be from valve seals on the way out. This is amplified when the bike is under hard decels. This places the area under high vacuum below the throttle plates. Determine if it's actually oil or fuel residue on the valves. If the oil consumption is normal and no smoke on decels, I wouldn't worry too much about it. Smoke on long decels are the main indicator of bad intake valve seals. Have someone follow you and test it out. If none, don't worry about it.
Ron
 

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Discussion Starter #6
My oil levels are perfect I always check my oil before a ride thanks for the info I will have a buddy follow me I just don’t want to be chasing a problem that isn’t there! Bikes only got 8k miles on it


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Looks like typical carbon deposits to me- as Ron says due to the valve overlap. As long as there’s little/no oil usage, if it concerns you you can clean it with an aerosol spray (sea foam spray, CRC intake valve cleaner, and there are others) Can also use a good injector cleaner (like Chevron Techron) in the fuel periodically. But really nothing to worry about
 

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Yea, so it's buildup from before you tied the vents together under the engine - that's spanky clean compared to my R bike with 12 K on it when I bought it - it was BAD ! Just rotate the engine to all valves closed on that cylinder, spray sea foam in there, let sit, wipe gunk out with a set of long forceps and a rag ball - ( Big Q Tip ) don't let the crap drip into the combustion chamber - then turn it over, do the other cylinder - 1 hour project at best - your bike will run so much better - put some sea foam in the gas it'll never come back with an oil catch can - & run Shell 93 Octane consistantly - that's my program.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Yea, so it's buildup from before you tied the vents together under the engine - that's spanky clean compared to my R bike with 12 K on it when I bought it - it was BAD ! Just rotate the engine to all valves closed on that cylinder, spray sea foam in there, let sit, wipe gunk out with a set of long forceps and a rag ball - ( Big Q Tip ) don't let the crap drip into the combustion chamber - then turn it over, do the other cylinder - 1 hour project at best - your bike will run so much better - put some sea foam in the gas it'll never come back with an oil catch can - & run Shell 93 Octane consistantly - that's my program.
I was concerned because I did the vents 2 seasons ago and still got gunked uphavent sea foamed them in awhile though


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Did you put an oil catch can on the vents or just tied them together vented to the atmosphere ? The crank has to vent to the atmosphere or better yet a reduced pressure intake area with an oil separator ( similar to the inside of the air filter area like the stock crappy leaky vent ) or you'll have problems with crankcase pressure buildup and ring sealing and that may mix oil with the reversion exhaust staining Ron's talking about - it looks like valve deposits are from the fuel, you're always going to have that buildup and the other stains look pretty dry, not oily so I wouldn't worry about it just clean it all up as a maintenance function - I do mine about every oil change that keeps the valves nice & clean as that buildup reduces smooth airflow, efficiency & power quite a bit - Ride On !
 

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Using one of those ass wipe K&N oiled filter media deals, can make a mess in the intake track as well. Not only does it add some oil mist, more dirt goes in to stick to it. However, in this case, all I see is normal intake reversion effect.
Ron
 

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Ron do you think that reversion effect is made worse by a restrictive exhaust system that's just simply is not getting the gasses out of the combustion chamber efficiently ? I mean where does excessive exhaust back pressure equal or exceed the reversion effects from a totally open exhaust like a short side exit destroyer exhaust or separate open drag pipes ? If the exhaust pipe system is way too restrictive I can see exhaust contamination of the intake tract during valve overlap happening similar to reversion effects - and issues getting a proper tune since the engine is not scavenging properly - what do you think ?
 

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Ron do you think that reversion effect is made worse by a restrictive exhaust system that's just simply is not getting the gasses out of the combustion chamber efficiently ? I mean where does excessive exhaust back pressure equal or exceed the reversion effects from a totally open exhaust like a short side exit destroyer exhaust or separate open drag pipes ? If the exhaust pipe system is way too restrictive I can see exhaust contamination of the intake tract during valve overlap happening similar to reversion effects - and issues getting a proper tune since the engine is not scavenging properly - what do you think ?
Not sure. As we know, back pressure is needed for torque also. Most reversion seems to take place between 25-3500, based on the numbers I see when tuning it.
Ron
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Did you put an oil catch can on the vents or just tied them together vented to the atmosphere ? The crank has to vent to the atmosphere or better yet a reduced pressure intake area with an oil separator ( similar to the inside of the air filter area like the stock crappy leaky vent ) or you'll have problems with crankcase pressure buildup and ring sealing and that may mix oil with the reversion exhaust staining Ron's talking about - it looks like valve deposits are from the fuel, you're always going to have that buildup and the other stains look pretty dry, not oily so I wouldn't worry about it just clean it all up as a maintenance function - I do mine about every oil change that keeps the valves nice & clean as that buildup reduces smooth airflow, efficiency & power quite a bit - Ride On !
Mine are tied together and ran out the bottom of bike no catch can no oil separator just straight to atmosphere, I changed my intake setup as well last season




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That could explain some of it. Are you running unfiltered air to the IAC port between the throttle bodies? Note my previous comment on the oiled K&N.
Ron
 

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Discussion Starter #16
That could explain some of it. Are you running unfiltered air to the IAC port between the throttle bodies? Note my previous comment on the oiled K&N.
Ron
Yes it’s unfiltered right now I’m trying to figure that out right now thinking about welding an aluminum stub and putting a little filter on there just not sure I want to weld to throttle body just yet


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Just drill & tap it for a nipple that a small filter like a fuel filter can be attached to it with a short piece of clear fuel hose - if there's enough metal there. You could also drill it to accept a piece of short small diameter tubing that could be interference fit & glued in place then the filter slid on it -
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Just drill & tap it for a nipple that a small filter like a fuel filter can be attached to it with a short piece of clear fuel hose - if there's enough metal there. You could also drill it to accept a piece of short small diameter tubing that could be interference fit & glued in place then the filter slid on it -
The threaded round thing in the middle is for the metal rod that holds factory air filter lid on, the IAC port is down in the square valley


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