[justinh]

Okay go easy on me here, I'm no mechanic (this will become painfully obvious). I just received my V-mod exhaust and am anxious to get it on. I cannot however get a allen wrench onto the screw/bolt that attaches the top chamber to the bottom chamber due to the shock blocking it. So I put the bike up on the lift and loosened the top shock bolt so I could swing the shock out of the way temporarily. However the shock bolt won't come out. I know I'm doing something stupid to make this far to difficult.

:banghead: :banghead: :banghead: :banghead:

 

[dlevi03]

LOOSEN THE CLAMPS AND PULL LIKE h3ll!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

 

[runit1971]

I did not have to remove my shock to remove the pipes it should be an 6 mm allen just stand the allen up and use a monkey wrench on the end of the allen wrench to loosen check out this link.
http://www.v-rodforums.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1791

Sorry meant to put 6mm :kaz:

 

[dlevi03]

Do not worry about the screws holding the pipes together. Just loosen the clamps and remove the screw on the bottom side of the pipes, wiggle them up and down as you pull on them and the should come off. If you spray some lube at the clamps the wiggle off better. Make sure you have a beer next to you cause you will need it after you are done taking them off the first time. Good Luck!

 

[vroddrew]

I cannot however get a allen wrench onto the screw/bolt that attaches the top chamber to the bottom chamber due to the shock blocking it.

You should not have to remove the stock shock absorber to remove the stock mufflers.

Having done this a couple of times, I think the problem you may be having is that it is difficult to get sufficient leverage on the short-end of an "L" shaped Allen key to release the 6mm hex cap screw that holds the upper muffler to the bottom. I recommend that instead you buy a 6mm hex socket and use a long ratchet extension to get down into the gap between the inside of the muffler and the outside of the shock. Ideally you want a long-shaft, ball-end metric hex socket - but unless you special order it these are hard to find, so stick with the standard length hex socket and use an extension bar.

If you don't have (or don't want to buy) the socket, it is possible to use the L-shaped Allen key, but to do so you need to get a box-end wrench and loop the closed end over the short arm of the Allen key to get enough leverage. I've used this method in a pinch - but it is almost guaranteed to either skin your knuckles or strip-out the head of the hex screw.

There are plenty of other 6mm hex fasteners on your V-Rod, so buying the hex socket is a good investment.

 

[justinh]

I got it

I got it thanks for all the help. I made the mistake of reading the HD service manual that says to take them off individually.

And Now!!! :cheers:

 

[nobozos]

I got it thanks for all the help. I made the mistake of reading the HD service manual that says to take them off individually.

And Now!!! :cheers:

Don't forget to protect your swing arm (scratches easily) I used 200mph duct tape on mine.

 

[Danno]

vroddrew is right. Invest in a hex socket set. I bought a metric and standard Stanley set from my local Walmart tool department. They ran me about 10 bucks each. I used them when I removed my mufflers and wound up wrapping a piece of electrical tape around the socket to keep from scratching the upper pipe (it was a tight fit). Make the small investment, you will definitely use them again.

 

[Danno]

Hey Justinh. Aren't you in Overland Park? I live in Olathe. If you need help with anything, let me know. I've been a gearhead for most of my life so I'm equipped with all sorts of tools. I'd also like to compare the sound of your V-Mods to my D & D slipons. Send me a PM if your interested and I'll give you my contact info.

 

[V-Man]

I got it thanks for all the help. I made the mistake of reading the HD service manual that says to take them off individually.

And Now!!! :cheers:

The service manual is correct, it's a heck of a lot easier to take them off one by one than together. SK makes long ball-end hex sockets that are perfect for the job. Alternatively you can buy any hex ball-end L-key (Craftsman, Wiha, etc.), cut it off at the bend and use a 6mm socket on it.

Before you put them back on make sure to use some Anti-Seize.

 

[keithlee21]

Could anyone tell me off hand how the torque specs for the bolts of the muffler clamps, muffler brace, and the 2 top bolt joining the mufflers together?

 

[V-Man]

Could anyone tell me off hand how the torque specs for the bolts of the muffler clamps, muffler brace, and the 2 top bolt joining the mufflers together?

Still don't have a shop manual, huh?

Muffler clamps: 48 ft-lbs
Muffler fasteners: 17 ft-lbs

Not sure what you mean by the brace. See attached.

 

[98]

I bought a metric and standard Stanley set from my local Walmart tool department. They ran me about 10 bucks each.

$10.77 if you're in Hampton Roads, to be precise. The star hex set was a little more pricey, $18 or so.

 

[Vrod-tlam]

$10.77 if you're in Hampton Roads, to be precise. The star hex set was a little more pricey, $18 or so.

:rofl: I bought those same 2 sets! :rofl: