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I was able to work a screw driver with tape over the end on the underside of the bar, then WD-40 the crap out of it.
 

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I squirted in some WD40, waited a few minutes then stuck a needle for inflating sports balls ans slid it under the rubber - a few blasts on the compresser and tada! grips off.
 

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NetMan said:
How do you get the throttle cable out of the right grip?
Any tips?
You should have two cables.

1) loosen both cable adjusters
2) remove two screws and separate right side handle bar switch housing
3) use screw driver to rotate cable ferrules to a position that allows them to slide off towards the switch housing
 

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I've got some new grips coming.
Are the cable adjusters such a thing that if you loosen them... say 5 turns.... you can put the new throttle grip on, tighten them back up 5 turns and they will be right where they are supposed to be adjusted?

Thanks
 

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pacanis said:
... Are the cable adjusters such a thing that if you loosen them... say 5 turns.... you can put the new throttle grip on, tighten them back up 5 turns and they will be right where they are supposed to be adjusted? ...
You would have to assume it was adjusted right in the first place and that the new grip was identical to the one you removed. It isn't that difficult to adjust:

1) set both adjusters as short as they will go
2) point front wheel straight ahead
3) rotate and hold throttle fully open
4) lengthen throttle cable adjuster (front one) until throttle cam just touches cam stop
5) tighten throttle cable adjuster jam nut and release throttle
6) turn front wheel right to fork stop
7) lengthen idle cable adjuster (rear one) until the cable housing just touches the bottom of the pocket retainer on the throttle body linkage
8) check adjustment by rotating throttle and making sure it returns to idle position sharply when released
9) if it doesn't return sharply add more free play to the idle cable by loosening (shortening) rear adjuster until the throttle returns sharply
10) tighten idle adjuster jam nut

If you still have binding verify the cables are positioned correctly through the triple clamps, right side cover, and near the radiator overflow bottle.
 

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How much are the stock grips? Like $30 bucks? sheesh... rip them off and buy a new set IF you need them in future.
 

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Thanks, Stever! All printed out and ready to go. Just got notification my PM grips from Hog Pro are on their way.

Oh, I'm ASSuming all this can be done with a pair of vise grips and a BFH... right? :rofl:
 

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pacanis said:
Thanks, Stever! All printed out and ready to go. Just got notification my PM grips from Hog Pro are on their way.

Oh, I'm ASSuming all this can be done with a pair of vise grips and a BFH... right? :rofl:
You sound like an Aircraft mech! Thats a Harley tool, not BFH.:spank:
 

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hd-v-rodder said:
You sound like an Aircraft mech! Thats a Harley tool, not BFH.:spank:
Aircraft mechanic :eek: ? Not me..... but I will have my 100 mph tape ready :D

And I didn't know "Harley tools" came in metric :rolleyes:
I have a metric BFH :) Must be a Buell tool. Oh wait, that's a different thread..... :angeldev:
 

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OK, does this seem right? I didn't really understand the "throttle cam" and "pocket retainer" in your instructions, Steve, so I called PM and talked to someone in service.

He said to lengthen the front adjuster until there wasn't any more play in the grip, then to adjust the further away adjuster until the throttle snaps back.

What this has left me with is the front cable adjuster showing about 4x more thread than it did with the stock grip. I was wondering if I was going to run out of threads it's out so far..... And the return adjuster screwed all the way in still, like when I took the old throttle grip off.... If I lengthen it at all the grip gets sluggish in its return.
Everything otherwise looks OK to me. No problems getting anything apart and putting it back together.

Whadaya think? Don't worry about it and ride?
 

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Pacanis,
I don't think what PM suggested is right. I think there is some confusion about front and rear adjusters. I'm referring to the adjusters relative to the bike orientation. You write that PM told you to "lengthen the front adjuster until there wasn't any more play in the grip, then to adjust the further away adjuster until the throttle snaps back." This is confusing to me because the front adjuster is the one that is further away and it shouldn't be used to determine how the throttle snaps back to the closed position.

The throttle cam is the plate with a slot in it that's attached to the "pulley" that the two cables wrap around and attach to. This throttle cam determines how the throttle opens as you twist the right grip. With the wheel facing straight ahead and the throttle fully open; start with both adjusters fully collapsed. Now lengthen the front (throttle) adjuster. You should see the cam plate (with slot) rotate around with the stop sliding through the slot. When the stop comes to the end of the slot, tighten this adjuster and release the grip and let the throttle close.

The pocket retainer is the piece above the pulley where the end of the idle cable housing rests. There's one for the throttle cable also but it isn't considered in the adjustment. The aftermarket cables that I'm using have "ferrules" on the end of the cable housings that rest in these pockets. After you adjust the throttle cable adjuster, turn the wheel all the way to the right. Now lengthen the idle cable adjuster (the one towards the rear of the bike) until the end of the idle cable housing (or "ferrule" if there is one) just bottoms out in the pocket retainer mentioned above.

The important thing is that the throttle should open fully and snap closed without binding, as you turn the wheel to either side. I hope this helps.
 

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Yep. That helps..... for next time :D I didn't know I was supposed to leave the throttle housing apart when I adjusted it. I had it back together before looking at your instructions and trying to figure out where the parts were... I almost went as far as to think I had to look at the fuel injection, or the other ends of the cables, to find them. Almost :chair:

I wrote front, but I should have written closer adjuster. I monkeyed around with it some and see that if I tighten the front, oops, I mean closer one back up, which gives the throttle slack, I can get the slop out by loosening the further away adjuster, so they aren't so uneven. I didn't realize they kinda work in unison.
All together and working for tonight's ride.

Now if I had only known that you have to take the housing apart to get the left grip off I could have gotten it off with my air compressor. I ended up cutting it and then saw that part of it is also gripped by the housing. I wondered why I couldn't quite peal it away with a screwdriver. I like to save my stock parts for whenever, but oh well. it's just a grip. I'm used to putzing around with my ATV and this Harley has just a little more engineering built into it :laugh:
 

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pacanis,
You're confusing me again.
What do you mean by: "I didn't know I was supposed to leave the throttle housing apart when I adjusted it." ...?

You do need to look near the fuel injection. The parts I'm talking about are at the far end of the cables mounted on the intake throttle body at the top of the engine, not in the housing you take apart to change the grips.
 
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