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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I am installing a side mount license plate. In order to do this I need to run the wires through the swing arms two holes conveniently provided by MOCO.

I discovered the only way to thread the wires was to remove the rear tire. Here in is the problem.

I could not get the brake caliper to come off the rotor. There is not enough clearance between the outside edge of the caliper and the inside of the wheel. I had to remove the fluid line and remove the caliper and wheel as one assembly.
Even once on the ground the caliper has insufficient clearance for removal It looks like you have to remove the rotor to extract the caliper from the wheel. It's possible removing the pads may leave enough room to wiggle the caliper off but I was in no mood at this point to try it.
I checked the service manual and it does not mention this and how to deal with it. The manual seems to be written for a standard "A" or a skinny tired bike.

Anyone else have this problem and if yes what did you do about it? I now have a couple of scratches on my wheels because I was dumb enough to think they would just slide off like a real bikes calipers will.


Thanks in advance for any words of encouragement.
 

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Greg/Moderator
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John before you pull the pads you might stick a screw driver in between the pads and rotor and push the piston back in, this might give you enough room. Yes you will loose some fluid and make a mess. If that doesn't work pull the pads.

I was thinking the 2 piece rear caliper was to help with this issue ?
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
VrodG said:
John before you pull the pads you might stick a screw driver in between the pads and rotor and push the piston back in, this might give you enough room. Yes you will loose some fluid and make a mess. If that doesn't work pull the pads.

I was thinking the 2 piece rear caliper was to help with this issue ?
Pulling the fluid line was the simplest way I saw. Did not lose much fluid, maybe a 1/4 tsp, and bleeding it is a breeze after reinstall. I did not try to remove the caliper afterwards. Left the whole thing as an assembly since the reason for the removal was to get at the swing arm innards.
 

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John...........I had the same clearance issue when I replaced my stock caliper on my 03-A with a chrome caliper. As I see it I only had two options: (1) remove the rotor in order to have the necessary space to slip off the whole caliper, or (2) leave the rotor on and open the caliper into the two halfs by removing the three bridge bolts and two pad pin pins.

I opted alternative 2 with the wheel still mounted on the bike. You just have to be a little careful putting it back together since you are putting the back portion on by using touch vs. sight. Make sure the 2 little o-rings stay firmly seated in the back portion of the caliper. A service manual is helpful to give you instructions and a schematic to follow.

In your case I do not think you have to remove the caliper in the first place, but if you do I would recommend option 2.
 

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Greg/Moderator
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Vr Master said:
Remove the brake rotor first!
I thought the reason for the 2 piece rear caliper was to make the removing of the rear wheel easier ? If not whats the reason for it ?
 

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durata membro
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I know on my one piece caliper w the wide wheel,the rotor needs to be removed along w the caliper and wheel.It's a bit of a task but if you tape your wifes favorite night gown around the parts nothing gets scratched.

I looked at the X and it appears that if the pads are removed the caliper will slide up and out.The inside is beveled and this was probably done for removal while the wheel is still in place.



Elrod on the V-Rod
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
ElrodontheV-Rod said:
I know on my one piece caliper w the wide wheel,the rotor needs to be removed along w the caliper and wheel.It's a bit of a task but if you tape your wifes favorite night gown around the parts nothing gets scratched.

I looked at the X and it appears that if the pads are removed the caliper will slide up and out.The inside is beveled and this was probably done for removal while the wheel is still in place.



Elrod on the V-Rod
Life never comes easy does it. I guess I will learn how to remove brake pads now so when I need to I will know how. Nothing in the service manual about this problem. It appears to me that removing just the inside pad may make enough clearance to do the job
 

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durata membro
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RustyG said:
Life never comes easy does it. I guess I will learn how to remove brake pads now so when I need to I will know how. Nothing in the service manual about this problem. It appears to me that removing just the inside pad may make enough clearance to do the job

The 07 service manual is very bland on the rear brakes,most of the info is on the runout of the rotor.Our style fronts are not shown,just the traditional VRSC rotors but they do have a spot on how to lace the front wheel.:confused:
The hyd line is routed different than previous years,removal of the line might be nesessary to get the caliper out of the way.


Elrod on the V-Rod
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
thumbsupracing said:
I didn't need to remove the wheel to run the wires from my sidemount:wazzup:
I tried for almost 2 hours to fish line through the swing arm. Could not even come close. Finally removed the wheel and learned a few things about the idiosyncrasies of the VRSCX that are not documented in the service manual.
 

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puk! puk! puk!
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I'm with him. I ran the wires in 2 directions. If you look under the swing arm there is a 3rd hole. I pushed the wire one way to the hole at the back of the swing arem behind the tire and pushe the other way to come out the hole by the shock, took about 5 minutes to fish then through.

thumbsupracing said:
I didn't need to remove the wheel to run the wires from my sidemount:wazzup:
 
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