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james
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601 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
i know that this a repeat subject but i just felt like saying... my rear brake switch went out again after 4 months. i plan on buying the accel switch here sone but i still put a trouble call into HD comstumer service.how weird is it when they said that they have never receaved any complaints or issues with the switch. i guess they must dump old data , like any thing over a month old. i will probly not get any where with it but all i can do is try.
 

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james
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601 Posts
Discussion Starter · #2 ·
just got off the phone once again with HD corp and thier tech said there is no way of losing brake pressure or fluid and i must be operating the bike incorectly. well i made sure they understand that if the back brakes fail while under emergency braking condition and i get into an accident that i will sue HD even if i can't win.i know i am wasting my time but i feel better when i try then if i just say what if.
 

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Sharks-Parts
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5,659 Posts
be sure to get the full name of the person you are talking to. also dates and content of conversation..
 

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K.I.A. '07 AW
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10,908 Posts
:them:
when you replace the switch this time, make sure you coat the exposed threads with RTV or some other type of sealant to help keep moisture out. No easy task when you live in the humid regions of the world
 

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james
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601 Posts
Discussion Starter · #5 ·
:them:
when you replace the switch this time, make sure you coat the exposed threads with RTV or some other type of sealant to help keep moisture out. No easy task when you live in the humid regions of the world
i used tephlon tape, but i am going to get some insulation rap for the brake lines to see if it makes a different on the operating temp of the switch. i am guessing that it is a bellows switch and the bellows it made of rubber.
 

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K.I.A. '07 AW
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10,908 Posts
when you replaced the switch 4 months ago did you drain, flush, and refill the system with fresh clean DOT4?
If not, it is most likely your deteriorated DOT4 that has caused this second premature failure. DOT 4 likes to absorb moisture from the air which leads to it breaking down. In your climate you should be changing your DOT 4 at least every other year if not yearly.

Consider yourself lucky. The night my switch failed the rear brake locked up about 5 miles later. When shop replaced the switch (as warranty), they drained, flushed, and refilled with new DOT4 and told me the old stuff looked like dirty soy sauce.
 

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james
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601 Posts
Discussion Starter · #8 ·
when you replaced the switch 4 months ago did you drain, flush, and refill the system with fresh clean DOT4?
If not, it is most likely your deteriorated DOT4 that has caused this second premature failure. DOT 4 likes to absorb moisture from the air which leads to it breaking down. In your climate you should be changing your DOT 4 at least every other year if not yearly.

Consider yourself lucky. The night my switch failed the rear brake locked up about 5 miles later. When shop replaced the switch (as warranty), they drained, flushed, and refilled with new DOT4 and told me the old stuff looked like dirty soy sauce.
i did not drain the caliper but i lost all the fluid in the rear brake reservior and lines. it all came out around the black plastic top.
 

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K.I.A. '07 AW
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10,908 Posts
drain the master cylinder completely. Remove and clean the gasket (both sides), flush with clean fluid until it runs clear, then fill it up. You should take this opportunity to do the front brakes as well.
Again, living and riding in wet/humid climates is a kiss of death for DOT 4
 

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Registered
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87 Posts
Put on new brake pads and noticed brake drag on my 2007 AW with 25k miles on it. Flushed and bled all lines. Rear brake fluid looked like soy sauce as you mentioned.

A month or so later, I noticed rear rotor damage, so I replaced the rear rotor two weeks ago. Changing oil yesterday, I noticed brake fluid dripping from the left side frame. Diagnosed the issue, and discovered the rear brake switch is leaking bad when pressure is applied. However, when I think about it, I noticed a slight fading pedal about two weeks ago.

I am going to install a Accel or Borg-Warner switch.
 

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Registered
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87 Posts
Removed the old rear brake switch yesterday, and the outer seal/potting compound is deformed - pulling away from inner plastic and outer metal housing. However, mostly releasing from the plastic. My guess would be heat related.

What I do not know is whether normal riding has caused the failure, or the fact I have had my bike dyno tuned twice. The dyno runs likely accelerated the switch failure due to elevated temperatures plus poor air flow. Just a few thoughts.

Need to investigate some type of insulation/shielding.
 

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Registered
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546 Posts
Removed the old rear brake switch yesterday, and the outer seal/potting compound is deformed - pulling away from inner plastic and outer metal housing. However, mostly releasing from the plastic. My guess would be heat related.

What I do not know is whether normal riding has caused the failure, or the fact I have had my bike dyno tuned twice. The dyno runs likely accelerated the switch failure due to elevated temperatures plus poor air flow. Just a few thoughts.

Need to investigate some type of insulation/shielding.
My rear switch failed, funny enough as you said, after the bike had been dynoed. In my case, the failure was because of radiant heat from the CFR pipe that I believe was too close to the switch. Replaced the pipe with a Rinehart, and is much better, it sits further away from the switch. Either kick the pipe out a bit more with spacers,or install some kind of heat shield.
 

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K.I.A. '07 AW
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10,908 Posts
I've used thermal heat sleeves from Jegs in the past, and have it installed on the front O2sensor wire on the V as a "just in case". Good for upto 500〫Since it is made from silicone, it is bike fluid resistant.

 
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