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Discussion Starter #1
Replaced my rear brake switch on my 2007 AW with stock exhaust last week only to findout the thread sealer I used did not cure. Therefore, I had a leak past the threads on the new HD brake switch I installed. I presume the leak was the result of the chemicals in the tube seperating, or mixing with the brake fluid. However, I used teflon tape the next round.

I any event, I was dreading the unpleasant task of stripping the mufflers and headers a second time. As a result, I evaluated the situation, and have an unorthodoxed removal method.

1. Make sure the engine is cool.

2. Carefully disconnect the two wires connected to the switch. Be patient here, rushing only leads to harness damage. Tape the wires out of the way with 2" Blue Masking tape (i.e. easy to remove and no damage to components).

3. Use the same tape to protect any area that may come in contact the socket, U joint, or extension, which will become clear in the following steps - at least I hope become clear.

4. Connect a 3/8" drive, 17mm deep well socket to the mating U Joint.

5. Place blue masking tape around the deep well socket, but leave approximately 0.25" exposed on the end that will first contact the switch. This will allow for better magnetic pick up, but protect bike components as the "assembly" is lowered into position.

6. Using a magnetic pickup tool which is able to reliably lift the socket and U Joint assembly, contact the magnet to the exposed end of the socket and slide the connected, taped socket and U Joint assembly toward the rear brake switch via the opening between the engine and auxiliary volume (i.e. the 2 into 1 into 2 portion of the stock exhaust). This step is done from the top side of the auxiliary volume.

7. With the assembly lying between the frame and auxiliary volume, slide a 6" socket extension up between the frame and auxiliary volume from below the bike, and connect a 6" socket extension and rachet to the socket and U Joint, which was positioned above. This step is done from below the auxiliary volume.

8. Mate socket with the switch.

9. Support the switch fitting/bracket (i.e. integrated bracket and rigid brake line assembly) so it will not bend, and remove the switch.
 

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I had to do the same thing when my switch went bad. I don't recall how I U-jointed my way to do the job, but what you did seems familiar. I used Teflon tape too. Thanks for writing it out.

BTW, don't over-tighten. Cracking the metal block that it screws into with a tapered pipe thread is possible and very costly. And bleeding the brake afterward is essential.

Just to add to that, when you replace the stock Harley switch with an Accel switch, you will find that the plug doesn't fit. The prongs on the Accel switch are wider apart than the stock one, so you must cut the plug in half (down the center). I recommend that you don't cut it all of the way through, but rather cut 1/8" short of all-the-way.

You can then spread the plug far enough to slip both connectors onto the switch. Wrap the plug with some rubber electrical tape (or vinyl if you can't find rubber) to make it look better and maintain some water resistance.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I have some Jegs Thermal Heat Sleeving on its way, so I can hopefully thermally isolate the switch this week. Another forum member gave me the headsup on the sleeving.
 
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