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Smelled something burning, looked down and saw some descent smoke but smelled like cloth burning and thought it was pants. Judging from the area I thought it could only be the brake line. Pulled over and the damn brake switch apparently melted and blew a fuse. Rear brakes, Brake lights, rear blinkers went out. Got home fine but what a strange occurrence after thousands of miles.
Anyone else had this? I'm assuming the exhaust heat finally got to it.


It's a $20 part that's on about every Harley made and an easy repair, I'm just not sure if something (other) electrical problem caused a short.or if heat did this, Any input appreciated.
 

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I had the same problem on my 04 last year. I laughed when I saw that it was the same type that I had on my 74 ironhead! SOOO off to the dealer I go. Make sure that you get the most recent version of the brake switch! it should be stainless steel and 6 sided like a nut!.. not black and sort of grooved for a wrench like the old one. BUT... instead of screwing around trying to get it iff throught the exhaust, just take the extra step and take off the exhaust at the crossover, then spray some WD40 on it when you slip it back on.

-- use teflon tape rated for oil and gas on the threads of the new switch.
-- make sure you mark the 2 wires for the switch.
-- go about 2/3 to 3/4 of the length of the threaded part when you put it in.

that should do it!
 

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NSFW
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Make sure that you get the most recent version of the brake switch! it should be stainless steel and 6 sided like a nut!

Do you happen to have the part number for the updated switch? The parts department gave me 72025-06.
 

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Can U See me now
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This appears to be a common problem with variances. Mine leaked and no rear brake. Read a couple threads with similar problems. Wonder if it's a heat issue.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I had the same problem on my 04 last year. I laughed when I saw that it was the same type that I had on my 74 ironhead! SOOO off to the dealer I go. Make sure that you get the most recent version of the brake switch! it should be stainless steel and 6 sided like a nut!.. not black and sort of grooved for a wrench like the old one. BUT... instead of screwing around trying to get it iff throught the exhaust, just take the extra step and take off the exhaust at the crossover, then spray some WD40 on it when you slip it back on.

-- use teflon tape rated for oil and gas on the threads of the new switch.
-- make sure you mark the 2 wires for the switch.
-- go about 2/3 to 3/4 of the length of the threaded part when you put it in.

that should do it!
Bought the one I could get, was same as stock. Exhaust came off immediately as I had to splice wires. Only 2 wires and they are interchangeable!
Wrapped with heat wrap to avoid further BS!
 

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Wrapped with heat wrap to avoid further BS!
I thought the same thing! The part has not yet arrived. When installed, it, too, shall be wrapped in heat resistant material of some kind.
 

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I am going to put on my new bolt/switch today and I cannot see why I need to put a thread sealant on it. The threads are completely within the pressurized body of the master cylinder. Brake fluid flows through the center of it to the banjo to the brake line and will be under pressure on both ends of the threads. The copper washers seal both sides of the banjo. Where is the fluid going through the threads going to go? Is there another purpose for the thread sealant?

The switch itself has a shaped plastic piece between the blade contacts. The connector should only go on one way.

Comments?

Doc
 

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I have replaced several of these switches. The ones made by Harley do not last at all. Here are some car ones that are compatible and work just fine. They are about $20 at the Harley delear and do not last. They are about $8 - $9 at your local auto parts store and they do last.

Compatable automobile brake pressure switches for you V-Rod and other Harley bikes:

Advance-GP Sorenson #37-5036
Napa-Echlin #SL147
Auto Zone-Niehoff #WA627C
 

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K.I.A. '07 AW
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rear switch repair

my melted also, burned the wires down. the switch was not recog.
i used a after market, for the local bike store, also bought some heat residant wrap. seems to be holding fine. looked at another bike form a different company they had the switch in the same location. what i notice was that they put a metal plate for a barrier. yes it was nippon
 

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K.I.A. '07 AW
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so I'm guessing they replaced it with the same moco OEM part that failed in the first place? I would pony up the $11 and change over to the heavy duty switch now.
 

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I have replaced several of these switches. The ones made by Harley do not last at all. Here are some car ones that are compatible and work just fine. They are about $20 at the Harley delear and do not last. They are about $8 - $9 at your local auto parts store and they do last.

Compatable automobile brake pressure switches for you V-Rod and other Harley bikes:

Advance-GP Sorenson #37-5036
Napa-Echlin #SL147
Auto Zone-Niehoff #WA627C
This is wrong , that specific switch is unique and you cannot use her me of these, at least for my 07 night rod you can't....
 
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