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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi!
I changed rear wheel some days ago. When the rear caliper and bracket was dismounted i was for some reason accidentally brakeing with my fot on the brake pedal. I am not a super experienced mechanic but i realizied in that moment that this is probably not a good idea when the brake is dismounted. Had a look att the brake caliper i did see that the brakepads now was pushed in together.
I took a thin blade and a screwdriver and carefully could push them back in a bit. Enough to get the caliper back on the disc and bracket again, with a bit of scrubbing from the brakepads against the brake disc when mounting. Thought it could be fine and maybe retain more and work as it should when i start it up and go for a short testdrive.

So i did today. And realized soon that the brakepads lies on the brake disc when driving. The disc gets hot and i hear its rubbing against the brakepads.

I would be very thankful if anyone knows what i need to do now? Someone done the same mistake maybe?
The bike is a muscle -16 with abs.
 

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Do the brakes work normally?
Does the bike roll freely?
The rotor will get hot with normal riding. Disc brake pads will lightly touch the rotor, unless you have a warped rotor that pushed the pads back into the caliper and cause a low pedal on initial press.
Dirty caliper pistons will also cause an excessive drag on the brakes.
When was the last time you flushed your brake fluid?
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Do the brakes work normally?
Does the bike roll freely?
The rotor will get hot with normal riding. Disc brake pads will lightly touch the rotor, unless you have a warped rotor that pushed the pads back into the caliper and cause a low pedal on initial press.
Dirty caliper pistons will also cause an excessive drag on the brakes.
When was the last time you flushed your brake fluid?
Thanks for an answer JJrod and your thoughts on this! :)
Yes i’d say the brakes work as they should apart from this scrapeing sound and heated rotor.
The rotor should not be warped, it was not before and was only removed and mounted on the new wheel. So i’d say it shouldnt be that either, but! When i drove just a bit down the street earlier to testride it as i mentioned i thought i felt a coming and going bump, a very little and hard to notice bump every turn the wheel did go. Forgot to mention that. Bump was what i thought, but could that be related to the brake issue?

The front rotors does not get hot at all when riding normal (if not used very much) the rear brake rotor was to hot to be normal for that short testdrive and barely used. I bought the bike last year from a dealer and they flushed the brake fluid. That is only about 500 miles ago.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Do the brakes work normally?
Does the bike roll freely?
The rotor will get hot with normal riding. Disc brake pads will lightly touch the rotor, unless you have a warped rotor that pushed the pads back into the caliper and cause a low pedal on initial press.
Dirty caliper pistons will also cause an excessive drag on the brakes.
When was the last time you flushed your brake fluid?
I felt a bit confused now about that bump thing i meantioned. So i did go for another short testride again and when in the garage before i did go out i got a feeling that bumpy thing i thought i felt could maybe be the remaining glue from the remowed sticker from the new tire sticking with gravel and sand from my entrance and going on the brand new asphalt on the street which also sticky now when new and heated from the sun.
So when i drove a bit now i did check there was no sand or gravel at the tire and also the glue from sticker now was gone. Also that bumpy feeling i thought i noticed earlier was now gone so never mind that issue :)
But still, the rear brake rotor did get really hot this time to. It gets that hot that you cannot even touch it without get burned. Not far away as hot as the exhaust. The front rotors not hot att all.
I think the brake still feels normal when i use it and brakes well when i use it. Im not sure if i dare to go for longer testdrives or higher speed though if it suddenly jams or anything, not sure if that even could occur but i only got one ass to risk
 

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Remove the screen on top of brake caliper. Try to push/squeeze the brake pads into the housing, should not bind...
 

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Ok, so a wheel change , huh? Calilper should be centered on the brake disc. If this wheel isn't doing that, it could be the way the bearings were pressed in causing the off center.
Ron
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Ok, so a wheel change , huh? Calilper should be centered on the brake disc. If this wheel isn't doing that, it could be the way the bearings were pressed in causing the off center.
Ron
Yes wheel and tire change was done.
I would say it is centered, its equal ”pressure” against the rotor i think and is so because of me, useing the brake while dismounted.. Also when mounting the caliper back on the bracket it didnt seem to be any ofset like that. I do understand that this little amount of ofset could be hard to notice and see when installing (absolutely for me anyway i guess) I’ll hope thats not the case but will have it in mind if nothing else sounds more likely and/or easier for me to check and try out
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Remove the screen on top of brake caliper. Try to push/squeeze the brake pads into the housing, should not bind...
Okay! I’ll do that tomorrow in the morning and see if i can force it back into the housing, sounds possible!
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Remove the screen on top of brake caliper. Try to push/squeeze the brake pads into the housing, should not bind...
i tried to push the pads back into the housing earlier. Was able to get them back a bit from the rotor. Haven’t testride after doing so but aplied a bit of pressure to the pedal and they went back on the rotor as they should. The pedal does not feel spongy or anything. Think i will remove the caliper tomorrow and remove the pads and give the caliper and pistons a cleanup. And se how all the pistons move when i carefully brake with the pedal. Is that a good idea? What do you think?
When i did the removal of the caliper and bracket when i took the old wheel of i did not remove the pads from the caliper before i took the caliper of from the bracket and lifted it of the rotor.
I did later see in the manual thats how it should be done. Why is that so and could that have caused this or be a part of this problem?
I do find a couple of threads here where people having really hot rear brakes and rotors but as in many cases the thread doesnt end upp with an answer on what the problem actually was and how they came up with an solution.
Hopefully this thread ends upp with finding both cause and solution.
 

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Think i will remove the caliper tomorrow and remove the pads and give the caliper and pistons a cleanup. And se how all the pistons move when i carefully brake with the pedal. Is that a good idea? What do you think?
The way to go.
You can use a blunt screwdriver when prying brake pads/pistons into the housing, do not forget to remove the brake master reservoir cover.
Cleanup: Brake cleaner & q-tip and wd40.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
The way to go.
You can use a blunt screwdriver when prying brake pads/pistons into the housing, do not forget to remove the brake master reservoir cover.
Cleanup: Brake cleaner & q-tip and wd40.
So i removed the rear brake, pushed the pistons back in and used the brakepedal. Now i could se that one of four pistons was lacking a bit. Moved a bit slower than the rest.
I cleaned them all up and gave them some wd40 and pushed them back in and the pushed them back out, wd40 again repeated that procedure.
Until they mowed better all of them.
The one wich was a bit slower got much better. Almost as good as the other three.
Mounted the brake and its much better now. The rear rotor still gets hot and hotter than the two in the front but not as hot as it was before at all.
Im satisfied. Thank you Knut and all you other for good tips!
 
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