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...have a question about my 2008 vrscdx codes my check engine light came on for the first time in 4 yrs ,it just flashed on for about 3 sec then went out ,about 5 minutes later it flashed again for 3 sec then went back out. this all happened while i was driving , got home checked the codes came up with code
po113 before i cleared the code pn32376-08 came up then cleared it
then went to next letter 's' i checked for codes 'none' came up but a different pn# and a different pn# for 'c' and went to 'b' and pushed the button and the display went blank then 4 sec later it displayed 'no r5p' ....what do all these #s mean ? ps. i unplugged the intake air temp sensor all looked good i put some dialectric grease on plug pins put back together , the po113 code was historic
now everything is back to normal ..hope someone out there can help....
You probably had an "intermittent" bad connection on the IAT sensor (P0113 is intake air temperature sensor open). When you turn on the ignition the CEL and key icon should both illuminate for 4 s and then turn off. If these remain off you have no trouble codes. If either light comes back on after 4 s and then goes off after 8 s you have an "historic" DTC set (CEL means the ECM or IM set the code, key icon means the TSM/TSSM set the code). If either lamp remains on continuously you have a "current" DTC set. An indicator illuminating and then going off while riding means you had an "intermittent" bad connection or component. The pnxxxxx-xx codes are indicating the modules and ECM "flash ID" that are communicating on the serial bus. I'm assuming you don't have ABS. That's why you saw a "no rsp" for the brake module.
 

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hey stever975 thanks for the info ..you are right i don;t have abs brakes ,my dtc letters on my vrod are p s c b are you telling me that the letter b is for abs brakes ?
what are the pn #;s after 'none' comes up ? and is there a post out there for 2008 codes ? all i can find is codes for 2007
 

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hey stever975 thanks for the info ..you are right i don;t have abs brakes ,my dtc letters on my vrod are p s c b are you telling me that the letter b is for abs brakes ?
what are the pn #;s after 'none' comes up ? and is there a post out there for 2008 codes ? all i can find is codes for 2007
Yes, "P" stands for powertrain or ECM (electronic control module) codes, "S" stands for security system or TSM/TSSM/HFSM (turn signal/ security module) codes , "C" stands for cluster or IM (instrument module) codes and "b" stands for brakes or ABS codes.

If you read my post you'll understand what the part numbers mean.

Here's a link to the newer DTCs.
 

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some help please

Just found out how to read my error codes and have the following on my 08 night rod special.

P0113
P0562
Pn32376-08
C0562
C1216
Pn40664-08

Thanks!
 

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....have the following on my 08 night rod special.

P0113
P0562
Pn32376-08
C0562
C1216
Pn40664-08 ....
P0113 means you had your IAT sensor (intake air temperature) sensor unplugged
P0562 means the voltage at ECM terminal #13 (switched power, supplied by battery via IGNITION fuse and RUN/STOP switch) was below 12.2 V with engine RPM > 2000
C0562 means ABS ECU terminals #10 & 20 are below 9 V and MPH > 5 or when terminal #19 is below 8.7 V and MPH > 5
C1216 (rear brake switch was open) means the ABS system detected the front brake switch as not closed and the ABS ECU detects 1) an open in the rear brake input circuit and 2) an open in the ground circuit to the rear brake switch for 2 at least seconds.

The other two numbers aren't DTCs. Pn32376-08 is the P/N for the ECM flash and 40664-08 is the P/N for the ABS ECU

You need to clear them and see which return to determine if the codes is still "active" but:
P0113 is fixed by plugging in the IAT sensor,
P0562 and C0562 are symptoms of a weak battery or bad RUN/STOP switch
C1216 is caused by a bad rear brake light switch, an open tail lamp circuit, a bad ABS diode pack, an open rear brake input circuit to the ABS ECU, or a bad ABS ECU.
 

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Went Topless now have CEL on

Okay I just went completely topless with some venting holes in bottom pan and put in the IAT relocation kit for 02s. I started it and noticed CEL light lit, then took it out for spin. After a whileI noticed the CEL was only half lit not the whole icon ? Ran up the rpms in a couple of gears and felt a little stumble in the acceleration then it cleared and I noticed the CEL was out... Few min later it came back on full. I just checked and cleared the P0113 code then restarted bike and it set P0113 again I did this twice more code came back. I checked IAT sensor and it was tight I unplugged sprayed elect cleaner blew it off and replaced it, rechecked and code came back .This is a new IAT sensor that came with the relocate kit, any ideas??????
 

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You checked every thing I would have.

It might be a bad sensor, can you plug the old one in (even though it's on a shorter lead, It might not throw the codes your getting now.
 

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I'll have try that plugging into the old sensor and see. If that doesn't work I'm gonna check the deutsch fitting I had to put on the old sensor lead where I had to cut it to extend it to reach. Possibly a pin didn't connect. Thanks Taxman
 

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That was it bad connection at the deutsch connection a blob of solder wouldnt let one pin go in all the way and make a connection.Fixed that and then cleared the old code and started it CEL was out let it run a few minutes and all seems ok.Rain stopped so I'll have to take it for a spin....:D
 

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*sigh* In my usual incompetent fashion, I can't get past step 2. When I push the odo reset button (with ignition off and run switch on), the mileage comes up but nothing else happens - no blinking. What am I doing wrong, please?
 

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Noel
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*sigh* In my usual incompetent fashion, I can't get past step 2. When I push the odo reset button (with ignition off and run switch on), the mileage comes up but nothing else happens - no blinking. What am I doing wrong, please?
Turn on the ignition
 

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Instructions for Reading Codes on Late Model Bikes

For newer bikes the instructions are as follows (this comes from page 2-1 of the 2010 EDM = electrical diagnostic manual, P/N 99499-10):

1. To enter diagnostic mode press and hold the trip odometer reset switch while turning the IGN ON.
2. Release the trip odometer reset switch. "diag" should appear on the odometer display.
3. Press and release the trip odometer reset switch. "PSCb" will appear on the odometer display.
4. PSCb indicates the different modules that could display codes if equipped.
• P - ECM codes
• S - TSM/TSSM/HFSM codes
• C - IM codes
• b - ABS codes
5. Quickly press and release the trip odometer reset switch to cycle through the letters. The letters will flash as they are selected.
6. Once the corresponding letter is flashing to the desired module press and hold the trip odometer reset switch.
7. If no DTCs are present the odometer will display "none".
8. If any DTCs are stored in the module either current or historic the odometer will display the DTC. Quickly pressing and releasing the trip odometer reset switch will cycle through the stored DTCs.
9. If odometer displays "no rsp" then the motorcycle may not be equipped with the module. If the motorcycle is equipped with the selected module then go to other modules and look for applicable communication codes.
10. When all the DTCs have been cycled the odometer will display "end".
11. To clear all the DTCs in that module press and hold the trip odometer reset switch. If DTCs are not to be cleared quickly press and release the trip odometer reset switch. The part number of the module will be displayed.
12. Press and release the trip odometer reset switch again to continue to the next module.
13. Turn the IGN OFF to exit diagnostic mode.
 

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suggestions please.

Any help would be great.
Yesterday i gave my bike an oil change and a wash.
Now i have the tach light stay on while the bikes ignition is off and when the ignition is on the display says d i a g which tells me i've obviously gotten something wet that i shouldn't have. :banghead:
I've followed the steps (exactly) to see if i could bring up some codes to diagnose the problem but with no success. all i see is d i a g
Has anyone else had this problem and/or know what i can do to fix this??
So far i have disconnected all plugs and looked for water in a plug but all i found was a little bit of water around the odometer reset button.

Cheers Paul
 

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...
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Has anyone else had this problem and/or know what i can do to fix this? ....
You've shorted out the odometer reset switch with moisture. This has happened to many owners that aren't careful with the water spray when washing the bike.

You need to dry out the gauge cluster especially the reset switch. This is best done by removing the instrument cluster from the housing. On a VRSCDX follow these steps:
  1. Remove MAXI fuse (under upper right side cover)
  2. Remove upper fastener at back of cluster
  3. Rotate cluster down and remove harness connector (squeeze two release tabs together)
  4. Remove hinge fastener and then slide cluster off hinge peg
  5. Remove 4 fasteners at rear of housing and separate front bezel and housing from cluster
  6. Air dry cluster or use some electronics parts cleaner
  7. To assemble cluster reverse steps. Torque values:
4 rear fasteners: 1.3 to 1.9 Nm = 12 to 16 in•lbs
Hinge and upper fasteners: 2.2 to 2.8 Nm = 20 to 24 in•lbs​
 

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You've shorted out the odometer reset switch with moisture. This has happened to many owners that aren't careful with the water spray when washing the bike.

You need to dry out the gauge cluster especially the reset switch. This is best done by removing the instrument cluster from the housing. On a VRSCDX follow these steps:
  1. Remove MAXI fuse (under upper right side cover)
  2. Remove upper fastener at back of cluster
  3. Rotate cluster down and remove harness connector (squeeze two release tabs together)
  4. Remove hinge fastener and then slide cluster off hinge peg
  5. Remove 4 fasteners at rear of housing and separate front bezel and housing from cluster
  6. Air dry cluster or use some electronics parts cleaner
  7. To assemble cluster reverse steps. Torque values:
4 rear fasteners: 1.3 to 1.9 Nm = 12 to 16 in•lbs
Hinge and upper fasteners: 2.2 to 2.8 Nm = 20 to 24 in•lbs​
You have been very helpful thank you.
i've managed to bring a few codes up and the display doesn't say diag any more but the tach light is still on but really dim so a bit more drying is required.
the codes that came up are as follows.
pn69976-08
pn67308-09
b1004
b1005
b1008
c1094
c1095
c1216
are any of these critical or something that has happened since unplugging everything??

Cheers Paul
 

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You have been very helpful thank you.
i've managed to bring a few codes up and the display doesn't say diag any more but the tach light is still on but really dim so a bit more drying is required.
the codes that came up are as follows.
pn69976-08
pn67308-09
b1004
b1005
b1008
c1094
c1095
c1216
are any of these critical or something that has happened since unplugging everything? ...
First, all DTCs have 5 digits, a letter prefix followed by 4 numbers. The first two items in your list aren't DTCs. Those are the part numbers for your IM (instrument module) and HFSM (hands free security module) respectively.

The other six items are DTCs. The ones that have a "b" prefix were stored in/by the IM and the ones with the "c" prefix were stored in/by the ABS ECU (electrical control unit). A link to a list of the newer DTCs is in Post # 144.

b1004 = fuel sender low (voltage to circuit was low)
b1005 = fuel sender open/high (voltage to circuit is high)
b1008 = trip odometer switch closed
c1094 = front brake switch always on
c1095 = front brake switch open
c1216 = rear brake switch open

The first two were probably set when the IM was being unplugged. The third one is the one that's causing your problems. The last three are likely due to unplugged modules in the ABS brake light circuit.

All these DTCs should be cleared (see step 11 in Post # 154) after everything is plugged back in to make sure these aren't active codes.
 

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First, all DTCs have 5 digits, a letter prefix followed by 4 numbers. The first two items in your list aren't DTCs. Those are the part numbers for your IM (instrument module) and HFSM (hands free security module) respectively.

The other six items are DTCs. The ones that have a "b" prefix were stored in/by the IM and the ones with the "c" prefix were stored in/by the ABS ECU (electrical control unit). A link to a list of the newer DTCs is in Post # 144.

b1004 = fuel sender low (voltage to circuit was low)
b1005 = fuel sender open/high (voltage to circuit is high)
b1008 = trip odometer switch closed
c1094 = front brake switch always on
c1095 = front brake switch open
c1216 = rear brake switch open

The first two were probably set when the IM was being unplugged. The third one is the one that's causing your problems. The last three are likely due to unplugged modules in the ABS brake light circuit.

All these DTCs should be cleared (see step 11 in Post # 154) after everything is plugged back in to make sure these aren't active codes.
Thanks for taking the time to help me resolve my issues.
After all codes were cleared and the bike started and codes checked again i end up with just 2 that wont clear.
c1094 and c1216 Front & rear brake switches open.
I have no idea how to resolve these issues so if you have any suggestions im more than happy to hear them.
Also my tach light still lights up without ignition on. No matter how much i dry it even with the hair dryer.
Maybe i need a new gauge cluster??

Cheers Paul.
 

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Thanks for taking the time to help me resolve my issues.
After all codes were cleared and the bike started and codes checked again i end up with just 2 that wont clear.
c1094 and c1216 Front & rear brake switches open.
I have no idea how to resolve these issues so if you have any suggestions im more than happy to hear them.
Also my tach light still lights up without ignition on. No matter how much i dry it even with the hair dryer.
Maybe i need a new gauge cluster? ...
The c1094 (front brake switch always on) means that the your front brake switch is stuck on. This can be caused by a bad or out of position switch, a short in the switch wiring, or a bad ABS ECU.

The c1216 (rear brake switch open) means that the rear brake switch signal is disconnected. This can happen if the rear brake switch is bad, the rear brake switch wiring is bad, and if the brake light bulb is burned out (the last one isn’t likely though because this would set a c1095 DTC).

Your tach light being on with the ignition off indicates internal shorts in the IM and may require dismantling this (not impossible but also not trivial) or getting a new one.
 
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