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Color me Gone
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Discussion Starter #1
The IM (instrument module) is capable of displaying DTC's (diagnostic trouble codes).

1- Ignition off
2- push odometer reset button in & hold. Make sure run switch is on.
3- turn ignition to run and release button (you will see P, S &C displayed)
4- each letter represents an area of diagnostics... the one that is flashing is the one you are going to check. To move from one letter to the next, you push the button one time. (from P to S to C and back to P, etc.)
5- to get DTC within an area, you push and hold the button in for 5 seconds and if there are any, it will be displayed... you can release the button. As you push the button again, other codes will appear if they are there. If there are not any the word 'none' appears.
6- Record the codes.
7- To determine if a code is current or historic, you clear the codes while being displayed by pushing in and holding the button until 'clear' comes up. Turn off the ignition... then crank or restart the bike... turn off, and then repeat the code process. If a code is there now, its current... if not, it was historic.
 

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Registered
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Max said:
The IM (instrument module) is capable of displaying DTC's (diagnostic trouble codes).

1- Ignition off
2- push odometer reset button in & hold. Make sure run switch is on.
3- turn ignition to run and release button (you will see P, S &C displayed)
4- each letter represents an area of diagnostics... the one that is flashing is the one you are going to check. To move from one letter to the next, you push the button one time. (from P to S to C and back to P, etc.)
5- to get DTC within an area, you push and hold the button in for 5 seconds and if there are any, it will be displayed... you can release the button. As you push the button again, other codes will appear if they are there. If there are not any the word 'none' appears.
6- Record the codes.
7- To determine if a code is current or historic, you clear the codes while being displayed by pushing in and holding the button until 'clear' comes up. Turn off the ignition... then crank or restart the bike... turn off, and then repeat the code process. If a code is there now, its current... if not, it was historic.
Hey Max,
Thanks again ...just followed your procedure and pulled a P1009 "Current Incorrect Password"???? Cleared it and restarted and then checked codes again, got "none" So it looks like I'm good to go...what do you suppose P1009 is???
???
 

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High Performance
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276 Posts
Max said:
The IM (instrument module) is capable of displaying DTC's (diagnostic trouble codes).

1- Ignition off
2- push odometer reset button in & hold. Make sure run switch is on.
3- turn ignition to run and release button (you will see P, S &C displayed)
4- each letter represents an area of diagnostics... the one that is flashing is the one you are going to check. To move from one letter to the next, you push the button one time. (from P to S to C and back to P, etc.)
5- to get DTC within an area, you push and hold the button in for 5 seconds and if there are any, it will be displayed... you can release the button. As you push the button again, other codes will appear if they are there. If there are not any the word 'none' appears.
6- Record the codes.
7- To determine if a code is current or historic, you clear the codes while being displayed by pushing in and holding the button until 'clear' comes up. Turn off the ignition... then crank or restart the bike... turn off, and then repeat the code process. If a code is there now, its current... if not, it was historic.
Max
I believe that the key must be in the run position and the handlebar switch in the run position to read the "P" codes. Otherwise you get a "noresp" message.
 

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Color me Gone
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Discussion Starter #5
Jeff that is correct
 

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Bike is for sale!
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5,075 Posts
Wildbill said:
Hey Max,
Thanks again ...just followed your procedure and pulled a P1009 "Current Incorrect Password"???? Cleared it and restarted and then checked codes again, got "none" So it looks like I'm good to go...what do you suppose P1009 is???
???
:stupid: not sure what that means that is the code I got also
 

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Not in EP anymore
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1,693 Posts
Once again, this site has saved me tons of headaches. Thanks for posting the codes and how to check/clear them. I had a P0113, ends up the metal clip holding the sensor on came off and the connection worked it's way out. About a 5 second fix, HD would have probably charged me about $100.

Thanks Max.
 

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Color me Gone
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27,333 Posts
Discussion Starter #13
Tapia it would have had to have been his IAT sensor that uses the metal retainer clip. If it is not all the way seated it works like a spring to push the connector off.
 

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Not in EP anymore
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1,693 Posts
Max said:
Tapia it would have had to have been his IAT sensor that uses the metal retainer clip. If it is not all the way seated it works like a spring to push the connector off.
That's exactly it.
 

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Friend of Max.
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06 Night Rod
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151 Posts
This thread just probably saved me 100 plus dollars. I was checking some connections under the air box, then put everything back together. I stated the bike and the check engine light came on. I did a quick lookover of the bike and noticed that I forgot to put the air sensor back together. So I put the sensor in and again started the bike, check engine light still came on. Well I ran it through the check code process, found the code was indeed from the air sensor, cleared the code, and the bike is back to perfect. Thanks Max, the check is in the mail.

:boobs: :boobs: :boobs:
 

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Registered
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Max my man, Have an '04 VRSCA and set of shop manuals. Also have the rear ts/ run/stop module and the new LED lite. The ts have been acting flaky so I used your info to obtain DTC's as you described. The "P" flashed,I got a code - 32513-04. Can't find it in the manual.......What is it, my man?? Bionic Bob
 

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Part-time mod
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10,859 Posts
I was a victim of the dreaded P0113 myself. Thanks Max! Thanks to everyone else! You guys make life SOOO much easier! Thanks! :thumb:
 
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