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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Cleaning the pistons and bleeding made the front pull very solid, but accented the pulsing. Replaced the 10 springs and made sure they are lined up( put a small screwdrive in the bolt slot to hold washer while tightening the bolt). Still did not help the pulsing. Even tried to keep the bolts loose and hold with blue sealer, but no help.
I think the problem is in the rotors even though the Harley dealer and a priviate dealer both found the rotors ok. I think they are not thick enough for the load and overheat. Though the pads are in good condition, plan to replace with Carbon Kevilar pads. Will do next week. Got them on Ebay. If that does not work, will then consider replacing the rotors. Hate to spend so much. Wish Harley would come clean and just recall the rotors. Any one know where you can get cheep rotors?
Some readers believe its the wheels themselves which distort the rotors. Did not notice the problem much with the solid wheels, but found the bike blowing all over the place. The casted spoked wheel that is made in Austrailia for Harley greatly improved the handling( was going to sell the bike before) , but after about 5,000 miles started the pulsing. I do not know if it is realated to the casting or the rotors or both.
I find myself using the rear brake much much more, to advoid the pulsing especially at low speed. But there is no reduction in stopping power with the pulsing, so maybe I will just live with it.
Would appreciate some thoughts and advise.
Roger
 

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I assume youve posted this before from what you wrote,I doubt it is the too thin/overheating thing, espesh as you get it at low speed. Just thinking logically,as it seems you have, anything unusual that occurs after you pull, in a line down to the caliper would also occur if the bike wasnt moving.!
i dont know which model or wheel youve got, but a couple of ideas are,measure the disc thickness at lots of places with a micrometer,or take the discs off and lay on a flat surface,check wheel and all fork bearings by pulling and pushing etc,what happens if you spin the wheel by hand and apply a tiny bit of lever?are the calipers seated properly. excuse me if youve done all this
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Front brake pulsing

I assume youve posted this before from what you wrote,I doubt it is the too thin/overheating thing, espesh as you get it at low speed. Just thinking logically,as it seems you have, anything unusual that occurs after you pull, in a line down to the caliper would also occur if the bike wasnt moving.!
i dont know which model or wheel youve got, but a couple of ideas are,measure the disc thickness at lots of places with a micrometer,or take the discs off and lay on a flat surface,check wheel and all fork bearings by pulling and pushing etc,what happens if you spin the wheel by hand and apply a tiny bit of lever?are the calipers seated properly. excuse me if youve done all this
Have done most of what you suggested including checking fork bearings. Have not mic'd the rotors or removed them, but most everyone feels that replacing the rotors will do the trick. I believe there is small changes in the rotors, due to repeated heatings, and resulting warpage. If the metal was thicker it would not have distorted. I wonder if Honda or Yamaha or BMW have such problems. Probably not.
Roger
 

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I had that one time on a big XJ-1100 Yamaha. I fixed it by having the rotors flat ground. You could easily verify or eliminate the rotors as the problem by borrowing a set or a complete rim from a nearby member. The rotors look to be the only place to me though.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
MD, where would you suggest I go to have the rotors ground? Can you go to a brake shop, or do you need a specialized motorcycle brake shop?
roger
 

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The rotors can be turned on a proper brake lathe by a competent technician,though I would not suggest this.I rarely ever turn rotors on automobiles anymore,I replace them.

I believe Harley released a new rotor with a different composition of metals.This was supposed to be the cure.
Last set of stock rotors I ran were used,so I don't know if they were the new style,but I had the best life on the rotors using the the pads from EBC,the inexpensive organic grade.



Elrod on the V-Rod
 

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I just fixed my front brakes on my 02 by putting on new pads. I bought the 3 sets of Lyndall Z-plus (for stock discs) for $105 no shipping, no tax, from Hogpro.
The ones I had had 11,300 miles and looking at them they didn't look that worn. But with the new ones the brake lever and pedal are right up there, like new.
The reason this might be relevant is that the pads are easy to put in wrong. They have to be right on the rattle clips and they have to be on the right side. I've put them in wrong a couple of times and they do wierd things.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
The rotors can be turned on a proper brake lathe by a competent technician,though I would not suggest this.I rarely ever turn rotors on automobiles anymore,I replace them.

I believe Harley released a new rotor with a different composition of metals.This was supposed to be the cure.
Last set of stock rotors I ran were used,so I don't know if they were the new style,but I had the best life on the rotors using the the pads from EBC,the inexpensive organic grade.

Elrod, thanks for the help. Will probably get a new set of rotors and pads and have the old rotors ground down as a spare.
If that does not work, then I will just live with the pulsing.
Roger



Elrod on the V-Rod
 

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I had the ones on the big Yam done at an automobile based machine shop. All they did was flat ground them rather than lathe them. But echoing what Al said, the're cheap., especially if somebody here is willing to cough up a pair "right".
 

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Warped wheel

I had the same problem with my 06 night rod. It went thru 3 sets of rotors in 10,000 miles. The Harley shop finially determined that my front wheel was warped. They gave me a new one and so far so good. When the rotors were replaced the first time all seemed normal until about 2000 miles then the pulsing started again. If this sounds familiar I would suggest having the wheel checked out. I hope this helps you.

Dan
 

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I just recently replaced my Wife's 2003 front rotors. Minimum clearance is documented as .018". I mic'd mine. In some places they were .020" and some places they were .018". Pulsing has disappeared. Pulsing probably was due to the uneven wear.
 

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Cleaning the pistons and bleeding made the front pull very solid, but accented the pulsing. Replaced the 10 springs and made sure they are lined up( put a small screwdrive in the bolt slot to hold washer while tightening the bolt). Still did not help the pulsing. Even tried to keep the bolts loose and hold with blue sealer, but no help.
I think the problem is in the rotors even though the Harley dealer and a priviate dealer both found the rotors ok. I think they are not thick enough for the load and overheat. Though the pads are in good condition, plan to replace with Carbon Kevilar pads. Will do next week. Got them on Ebay. If that does not work, will then consider replacing the rotors. Hate to spend so much. Wish Harley would come clean and just recall the rotors. Any one know where you can get cheep rotors?
Some readers believe its the wheels themselves which distort the rotors. Did not notice the problem much with the solid wheels, but found the bike blowing all over the place. The casted spoked wheel that is made in Austrailia for Harley greatly improved the handling( was going to sell the bike before) , but after about 5,000 miles started the pulsing. I do not know if it is realated to the casting or the rotors or both.
I find myself using the rear brake much much more, to advoid the pulsing especially at low speed. But there is no reduction in stopping power with the pulsing, so maybe I will just live with it.
Would appreciate some thoughts and advise.
Roger
Hi, did you find a solution to the pulsating front breaks. I just bought a V-Rod and it’s got the same problem. Thanks.
 

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On my new DX at the time the front had pulsing. Runout was within .001 measuring on the outside. Seemed good to me so it drove me nuts for a while figuring it out. The cause was the disc was uneven thickness when measuring at 90 degree intervals. .0017 variance. Replaced disc and never happened again. Since runout can only be checked on the outer face of disc, a thickness measurement around the disc with a mike should also be part of the checks. My case, brand new disc, out of spec. New one, bang on even all the way around and had a .001 runout. While the SM claims a max of .008 runout, realistically more then .003 will cause some pulsing problems. Having uneven thickness in the disc, even .001 will cause pulsing as this area hits the clamping on the pads.
Ron
 
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