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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Going to put a new rear tire on tomorrow. Are there any tips or tricks
that I should know about? I am going with an avon 200 cobra. I hate my "R" so much that I wish I had 2 of them. At least it's not all shiney like the wrapper on a candy bar!

Thanks,
Dan
 

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Tie One On
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No tricks, pretty straight forward. Just DO NOT mix up the spacers from one side of the wheel to the other and you should do fine.
I think that the hardest part is getting the weight of the tire up and off the axle for taking it out and specially putting it back together. I use the bike lift for this by lowering the lift until the wheel just touches the ground or a block of wood under the tire to release the weight of the wheel from the axle.

Oh yea, make sure you juice up the axle with anti-seize when you put it back together, use it non sparingly on the axle.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
My kingdom for a crowsfoot. I will have to pull the back half of my fat cat to get to the
nut. What size foot, cuz this could waite for a day or two.

Dan
 

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Tie One On
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A crow foot for what ? The axle nut ? You could use a socket.
 

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I made a small mark with a sharpie on the adjuster cam so I could put it back exactly as it was before. Worked good for me.

Going to put a new rear tire on tomorrow. Are there any tips or tricks
that I should know about? I am going with an avon 200 cobra. I hate my "R" so much that I wish I had 2 of them. At least it's not all shiney like the wrapper on a candy bar!

Thanks,
Dan
 

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Just a big ole Doof
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919 Posts
At least it's not all shiney like the wrapper on a candy bar!

Thanks,
Dan
What are you trying to say? :chair: :D

R-n-R ing the rear tire is a piece of cake. Just mark the existing location beforehand, as stated above. Hit me up if you need some help with the tire change.
 

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Killer Service Inc.
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Just a big ole Doof
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Toney, may needa ride if my grandson is a noshow. will ya tody.

D
Whatever it takes for you to get that steel pumpkin rolling again, Danny. :stilpoke:
 

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Long list-Short road
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I've used a cut down (12") old broom handle to secure throuh the right side spacer and hub. (anything about the dia. of the axel will do) Just push it in 3" to 4"and it will hold while you line up the left while installing the sprocket & spacer.
 

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I made a small mark with a sharpie on the adjuster cam so I could put it back exactly as it was before. Worked good for me.
Yes! So do I.

Put duct tape on the inside of the shocks, particulary around the inside where the shock mounting bolt protrudes, put tape on the inside of the rim on the right side so you don't scratch the finish removing the brake caliper, and put some around the polished surface of the pulley. Before trying to wiggle the brake caliper and bracket free make sure you pull the brake hose out of the clamps on the swingarm. There are three clamps to release as I recall. You need every millimeter of brake hose slack to get the caliper out (I long about switched to the two piece unit, separate caliper and bracket, from a DX, so nice).
Remove both belt guards. I use a lift and get the rear tire light to remove the axle easily. Then I push the wheel forward to flip the belt off the pulley. Then use the lift to lift the bike up as you work the caliper off the rotor and wiggle it free from the space between the wheel and swing arm. You will see why I suggested all that duct tape! With the caliper free, continue to raise the bike until you can roll it out from under the rear fender. Not so hard to do after you have done it once or twice.
 

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Tie One On
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Yes! So do I.

Put duct tape on the inside of the shocks, particulary around the inside where the shock mounting bolt protrudes, put tape on the inside of the rim on the right side so you don't scratch the finish removing the brake caliper, and put some around the polished surface of the pulley. Before trying to wiggle the brake caliper and bracket free make sure you pull the brake hose out of the clamps on the swingarm. There are three clamps to release as I recall. You need every millimeter of brake hose slack to get the caliper out (I long about switched to the two piece unit, separate caliper and bracket, from a DX, so nice).
Remove both belt guards. I use a lift and get the rear tire light to remove the axle easily. Then I push the wheel forward to flip the belt off the pulley. Then use the lift to lift the bike up as you work the caliper off the rotor and wiggle it free from the space between the wheel and swing arm. You will see why I suggested all that duct tape! With the caliper free, continue to raise the bike until you can roll it out from under the rear fender. Not so hard to do after you have done it once or twice.
DO NOT use duct tape.
USE blue painters tape.
You will be cleaning the duct tape glue off forever if you use that stuff
 

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DO NOT use duct tape.
USE blue painters tape.
You will be cleaning the duct tape glue off forever if you use that stuff
I'v never had the duct tape on the bike long enough for it to leave any residue. The blue painters tape is also good, but does not resist tearing like good quality duct tape, and if my experience is relevant, wiggling that rear brake set up out from between the wheel and swingarm and later reinstalling it might require some contact with polished surfaces that could tear the blue stuff. That stock rear brake can be an SOB to work into position when putting the wheel back on.
 
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