Sounds like the cables are too tight. You need to get those adjusters freed up or buy new cables.
Problem with throttle not returning to neutral
Advice needed! I replaced the hand grips on my NRS. I had to do some pulling on the throttle cables to get them into the new right grip. I couldn't loosen the cables because the previous owner used red Loctite on the cable adjusters.
Now the throttle sticks, it doesn't return to fully closed position. I didn't lubricate the grip or anything, it wasn't written in the instructions.
Any advice on what to do now so that the throttle grip can travel freely? Thanks in advance for any advice or suggestions.
Now the throttle sticks, it doesn't return to fully closed position. I didn't lubricate the grip or anything, it wasn't written in the instructions.
Any advice on what to do now so that the throttle grip can travel freely? Thanks in advance for any advice or suggestions.
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I doubt it's the grip needing lubrication. I just threw on Avon grips last night with a 3/4 throttle tube. Because of the extra diameter, you have to loosen the throttle cables. They have a nut to lock the position in place so it shouldn't have needed red loctite from the prior owner but if they are done with red, it will take some heat to liquefy that.
My throttle instructions mentioned using a graphite type lubricant if needed but I don't think that's your issue.
When I first put mine on without adjusting the cables much, it definitely stuck open. A few turns down on the cables and I got it to where it snaps close freely. Also make sure it snaps close with the bars fully turned to each side.
My throttle instructions mentioned using a graphite type lubricant if needed but I don't think that's your issue.
When I first put mine on without adjusting the cables much, it definitely stuck open. A few turns down on the cables and I got it to where it snaps close freely. Also make sure it snaps close with the bars fully turned to each side.
I doubt it's the grip needing lubrication. I just threw on Avon grips last night with a 3/4 throttle tube. Because of the extra diameter, you have to loosen the throttle cables. They have a nut to lock the position in place so it shouldn't have needed red loctite from the prior owner but if they are done with red, it will take some heat to liquefy that.
My throttle instructions mentioned using a graphite type lubricant if needed but I don't think that's your issue.
When I first put mine on without adjusting the cables much, it definitely stuck open. A few turns down on the cables and I got it to where it snaps close freely. Also make sure it snaps close with the bars fully turned to each side.
Thanks, maybe I'll buy a small butane torch and unlock the adjusters. Would you only tighten up the idle cable (the rear one) without touching the adjustment on the actual throttle body cable (the front one)?
I adjusted both cables. When I first did it, I took off the filter so I could watch the blades on both throttle bodies to ensure everything was working properly.
I adjusted both cables. When I first did it, I took off the filter so I could watch the blades on both throttle bodies to ensure everything was working properly.
Thanks for the advice. I’ll see if there’s a way to see the TBs as is. I have the Trask Turbo kit on it but I didn’t get instructions with the bike so I have no idea how to remove the plenum.
Oh shit yea I didn't even think about that with the picture you posted, gorgeous bike btw!
Oh shit yea I didn't even think about that with the picture you posted, gorgeous bike btw!
Thanks!
Here is how I always adjust my throttle cables.I doubt it's the grip needing lubrication. I just threw on Avon grips last night with a 3/4 throttle tube. Because of the extra diameter, you have to loosen the throttle cables. They have a nut to lock the position in place so it shouldn't have needed red loctite from the prior owner but if they are done with red, it will take some heat to liquefy that.
My throttle instructions mentioned using a graphite type lubricant if needed but I don't think that's your issue.
When I first put mine on without adjusting the cables much, it definitely stuck open. A few turns down on the cables and I got it to where it snaps close freely. Also make sure it snaps close with the bars fully turned to each side.
Thanks, maybe I'll buy a small butane torch and unlock the adjusters. Would you only tighten up the idle cable (the rear one) without touching the adjustment on the actual throttle body cable (the front one)?
loosen both adjusters very loose.
start with the adjuster cable and tighten while looking at the linkage on the throttle body or better yet at the butterflies down the throat while tightening. you want it just tight enough to take up all the slack but not move the butterflies or pull on the linkage. move the bars side to side and verify the same. no opening of the throttles. then adjust the return and try the throttle in all positions possibe for the bars straight ahead, right and left sides. if all is smooth and nothing but turns of the throttle handle open the butterflies tight up the locknuts and make sure cables are free for routing.
happy throttleing
Here is how I always adjust my throttle cables.
loosen both adjusters very loose.
start with the adjuster cable and tighten while looking at the linkage on the throttle body or better yet at the butterflies down the throat while tightening. you want it just tight enough to take up all the slack but not move the butterflies or pull on the linkage. move the bars side to side and verify the same. no opening of the throttles. then adjust the return and try the throttle in all positions possibe for the bars straight ahead, right and left sides. if all is smooth and nothing but turns of the throttle handle open the butterflies tight up the locknuts and make sure cables are free for routing.
happy throttleing
Thanks for the instructions
Something as stupid as having the grip pushed too far onto the bar will cause the end inside the grip to hang up enough friction wise to prevent full return. Friction overpowers the return spring somewhat. Pull the assembly out another 1/16" and test that.
Ron
Ron
Something as stupid as having the grip pushed too far onto the bar will cause the end inside the grip to hang up enough friction wise to prevent full return. Friction overpowers the return spring somewhat. Pull the assembly out another 1/16" and test that.
Ron
Hey Ron, long time!
I did that last night, pulled the whole assembly out a little and put some graphite powder. No change. I’m going to try and unlock the cable adjusters this weekend and see what I can do. Thanks for the reply!
Hi. Long time no talk. Some people are just plain loctite crazy as you found out . Def need to free up adjusters and start from scratch because the second issue is adjustment, as in the return cable being too tight. This forces the barrel inside the grip to rub heavy on the bar. Tie_One_On method is fine. I'd verify full throttle at the mechanical stop as well but vertical blades works too. Return cable should have just a hair play in the adjustment as to not put pressure on the grip when the throttle is rolled all the way to idle. Basically throttle will have a slight mini rotation from full stop to start of blade opening. If not the return cable is too tight. Oh, no loctite needed. Lol.Hey Ron, long time!
I did that last night, pulled the whole assembly out a little and put some graphite powder. No change. I’m going to try and unlock the cable adjusters this weekend and see what I can do. Thanks for the reply!
Ron
Hi. Long time no talk. Some people are just plain loctite crazy as you found out . Def need to free up adjusters and start from scratch because the second issue is adjustment, as in the return cable being too tight. This forces the barrel inside the grip to rub heavy on the bar. Tie_One_On method is fine. I'd verify full throttle at the mechanical stop as well but vertical blades works too. Return cable should have just a hair play in the adjustment as to not put pressure on the grip when the throttle is rolled all the way to idle. Basically throttle will have a slight mini rotation from full stop to start of blade opening. If not the return cable is too tight. Oh, no loctite needed. Lol.
Ron
Hey Ron, do you have any experience removing a Trask turbo plenum? I’m in another city with minimal tools and was wondering how big of a job it is. Thanks
Not a clue. Haven't seen one in person.Hey Ron, do you have any experience removing a Trask turbo plenum? I’m in another city with minimal tools and was wondering how big of a job it is. Thanks
Ron
Here, see picksHi. Long time no talk. Some people are just plain loctite crazy as you found out . Def need to free up adjusters and start from scratch because the second issue is adjustment, as in the return cable being too tight. This forces the barrel inside the grip to rub heavy on the bar. Tie_One_On method is fine. I'd verify full throttle at the mechanical stop as well but vertical blades works too. Return cable should have just a hair play in the adjustment as to not put pressure on the grip when the throttle is rolled all the way to idle. Basically throttle will have a slight mini rotation from full stop to start of blade opening. If not the return cable is too tight. Oh, no loctite needed. Lol.
Ron
Hey Ron, do you have any experience removing a Trask turbo plenum? I’m in another city with minimal tools and was wondering how big of a job it is. Thanks
just six studs placed onto existing vrod intake housing and new plenum bolted onto them. looks pretty simple.
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Here, see picks
just six studs placed onto existing vrod intake housing and new plenum bolted onto them. looks pretty simple.
Nice, thanks! I contacted Trask and they said I can adjust the throttle cables without removing any of their turbo components.
Here, see picks
just six studs placed onto existing vrod intake housing and new plenum bolted onto them. looks pretty simple.
Thanks for the pics
Problem fixed, thanks to everyone for their input 
Care to enlighten us as to the solution?
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