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16 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Hi,
I replaced all pads, front and rear, after that hand lever loose hardness had before. Rear brake is very good. Someone told me to replace a brake fluid. I did it in front brake.
I bleeded system many times, no air bubbles, but also no any positive results. :banghead: Braking efficiency is very poor, when is beginning braking hand lever is very closes the grip. No leakage anywhere.
Any ideas where is the problem? Is it possible that brake pump, orings after 15k miles are broken down? How can I recognize that should I replace or fix the pump? (have HD any repair kit for brake pump, parts number - Vrod 2005)?
thanx a lot for any suggestion
Maciek
 

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Noel
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4,598 Posts
I think you still have air in the front system!

It is very rare to need a rebuild of the Master Cylinder or PUMP at 15,000 miles, there are rebuild kits for it, the HD PN 45072-96c <----click it
 

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821 Posts
Same issue with mine. I had the system re-bled last weekend and it seems to be holding up. I have a long trip planned in September, so I'm having the shop do a rebuild kit just in case. The kit is only $40 and hopefully I'll be able to make up the cost in peace of mind.
 

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K.I.A. '07 AW
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10,908 Posts
sounds like air is still in there... I say bleed again
 

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Sharks-Parts
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5,659 Posts
Hi,
I replaced all pads, front and rear, after that hand lever loose hardness had before. Rear brake is very good. Someone told me to replace a brake fluid. I did it in front brake.
I bleeded system many times, no air bubbles, but also no any positive results. :banghead: Braking efficiency is very poor, when is beginning braking hand lever is very closes the grip. No leakage anywhere.
Any ideas where is the problem? Is it possible that brake pump, orings after 15k miles are broken down? How can I recognize that should I replace or fix the pump? (have HD any repair kit for brake pump, parts number - Vrod 2005)?
thanx a lot for any suggestion
Maciek
when you say you bleed the system many times... are you just pumping the lever and cracking the bleeder screw? also what type "DOT #" fluid are you using? if the o-rings were ripped or torn you would be leaking fluid.... I suggest you back bleed the system through the calipers and see if that cures the problem...
 

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Blowin' Smoke
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2,647 Posts
V-Shop has a great idea in back bleeding the brakes if you can. The problem you are experiencing results from the "Y" just under the forks. I found that leaning the bike one way (on side stand) and bleeding the caliper on the high side, then leaning the other way (need help here) and bleeding the other, helps. You may have to repeat a couple of times.

Also, make sure your rotors are straight, so they aren't pushing the pads (and pistons) back farther than is necessary. Sometimes when you're working on the brakes you can push the floating rotors sideways, and it takes a bit for them to straighten themselves out.
 

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Registered
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16 Posts
Discussion Starter #7
Yeah exactly, I just pumping the lever and cracking the bleeder screw – is it good procedure or not? I use DOT 5.
Ok, I’ll try again bleed the brake as vroder suggested.

thnx
 

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Another Aussie
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91 Posts
Back Bleeding via the calipers up, as recommended by Sharkey, usually fixes this problem.
With the proviso that all caliper and master cylinder seals are AOK and likewise there are no leaks at all from unions/joints.
If you are not 100% aware of the way brake systems work or don't feel you have the competence in carrying out this type of bleeding I would strongly recommend you take it to a specialist.
Brakes, whilst very simple in straight mechanical/hydraulics terms can mean the difference between life and that other most undesirable option.
Good luck!:D
 

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Registered
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199 Posts
on older bikes ...I would loosen master cyl.cover ...place tie wrap around brake handle....return in morning and test....let it set over night with front brake applied....
 
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