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on my F when I'm not using it for tuning I have the Gauges displayed on my PV. After about 20 min of riding all but the voltage readout will disappear, if I exit back a screen then back to the Gauge screen they come back on. After searching the net and talking to Fuel Moto it appears that electronic interference is the alleged culprit rerouting the cable and or adding a ferrite core to the cable just were it enters the PV "should " help i have rerouted the cable 3 times from coiled behind the head light, routed past the airbox down the right hand side of the bike under the air box cover and back again to the PV, coiled under the right hand side front (fake) air Scoop where the diagnostic plug is. Added a ferrite core and still no luck.

So I contacted Dynajet, they claim they have heard of this issue but have failed to reproduce it with units that have been sent back to them, they say they have no idea what the issues is they have tried changing cables for customers that say the problem still exist when new cables are fitted.

So anyone out there have any hints on what I should try next, if you have an F and the gauges work for you can you explain how you have the cable routed.

Cheers
 

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Anyone seen this before?
I've heard about this issue before too. I've not had an issue but I custom shortened the cable for a direct custom fit from the data port, exiting the right vent cover with the throttle cables an up between the bars on a hard mount. It's likely only about 20" long as apposed to 6' or whatevever the bastard was when I got it. My data port is inside the right cover so not close to anything that can transmit a signal other then the fuse box and abs module. I suppose either could cause EMI at times.
I suspect in your case, the cable itself being coiled is the cause. That's a magnet for interference right there. I'd custom fit the length for starters and failing that, some braided stainless loom over the cable or do both at the same time. If that doesn't fix it the issue is with the PV itself.
Ron
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Thanks for the tips rbabos, I was thinking that coiling the cable was probably not helping. Shortening the cable would definitely help I might give this a go.
 

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I signed up to post a reply because I am in the same boat.

Did you ever get this fixed? This happens to me nonstop. During autotune the box freezing in a cell and I have to exit and then select datalog again to get it to restart. Its pretty dangerous having to stare at the screen when autotuning to try and catch it an unfreeze it. I have tried rerouting the wires several times to no avail. I am considering ordering a new cord and shortening it.

rbabos do you have any directions on how to shorten it? I am not very confident in my electrical wiring abilities.

Thanks
 

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Another option.....

I signed up to post a reply because I am in the same boat.

Did you ever get this fixed? This happens to me nonstop. During autotune the box freezing in a cell and I have to exit and then select datalog again to get it to restart. Its pretty dangerous having to stare at the screen when autotuning to try and catch it an unfreeze it. I have tried rerouting the wires several times to no avail. I am considering ordering a new cord and shortening it.

rbabos do you have any directions on how to shorten it? I am not very confident in my electrical wiring abilities.

Thanks
So this is very timely.

I have a PV1 (Power Vision) for my 09 Muscle (came with the bike actually as I bought it used).

The Power Vision would randomly not startup/boot past the Dynojet logo at times. Often the "solution" was simply to turn off the bike and back on, then it would boot and all would be good.

Fast forward to this winter. I decided to flash it to the most recent firmware.

I flashed it on the bike in the garage (the garage was around 38 degrees that day as it was before I installed my heater...).

It went good. Software showed correct versions.

Fast forward to this spring (2 weeks ago to be accurate). I can NOT get the Powervision to boot past the Dynojet logo. Stop bike, start bike...no result. ONE TIME in the last two weeks it booted successfully and I was able to view gauges/etc.

I gave up and emailed Fuel Moto. They replied "we actually see very, very issues with the screen freezing at all. There may potentially be an issue with the PV cable. " Full disclosure: Thought it might be the led HogLights headlight I installed this winter also so I tried all kinds of cable routing (even held the PV in my hand and went across the garage with the cable as far physically from the bike as possible). No boot.

I then called Dynojet directly and spoke to tech support.

They recommended I do a recovery firmware installation (I can post steps if needed). I tried that after the phone call. It would NOT succeed (failed on "step 1") when I tried to load the recovery firmware.

I called Dynojet back. Here is where it gets good:

"Sir, I know this might seem weird, but before you send it back to us for inspection......stick it in the freezer for a few hours and then try it. I only know this because I have been in our break room and seen several Power Vision units in the freezer. I asked the warranty guys what this was about and they said sometimes this fixes the "issue" of erratic PV behavior".

So..........I did just that. Stuck the Power Vision unit in the freezer for like 4 hours. Skeptical I was.

I take the PV back inside, hook it up to my laptop (holding the "on" button to get it to start in recovery mode) and.......it loaded the recovery firmware!!!!!!!!!! Yes, that was it. I then updated it to the latest firmware/database/etc with zero issues. Left it in my office for a few hours and then put it back on the bike. Boots every time, gauges work great, zero issues.

Moral of story: For those of you having bizarre Power Vision issues consider 1. Sticking it in the freezer for several hours 2. Restoring it with the recovery firmware 3. Updating it to the latest software/etc then testing it. I almost bet it works. My theory is that there is a memory corruption issue over time (heat/current ripple/etc) and that the freezing "resets" the memory enough to allow a recovery operation.

Also be aware: I tried many ferrite magnets. Zero effect. Cable locations. Zero effect. ONLY the freezer/recovery dance did the trick. TRY IT! It's easy and free.
 

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Same boat here. I thought I had it solved by putting few ferrite cores on the cable, but it just took longer to go blank again. I have not found a way to use it for prolonged periods on a running bike, and have gotten nowhere with warranty support, so I just gave up to be honest. It's not like knowing how hot the bike is running all the time is good for my nerves anyway...
 

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Thanks for the tips rbabos, I was thinking that coiling the cable was probably not helping. Shortening the cable would definitely help I might give this a go.
Basically the soldered splices are about 3/8" long lap fits for low profile. Stagger the joints over about a 2-3" length. Each joint shrink fit tube and a final shrink fit to cover over the whole splice area extending about 1" past the end of the outer two splices. I used the shrink with the glue inside for the final outer. Snug as a bug and water tight. Still flexible and only slightly larger dia then the original cable. Coming into 4 years of full time operation and no issues.
I did not do this to cure or eliminate any issues. I like things neat and didn't care for the rat's nest it would make full length.
Ron
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Basically the soldered splices are about 3/8" long lap fits for low profile. Stagger the joints over about a 2-3" length. Each joint shrink fit tube and a final shrink fit to cover over the whole splice area extending about 1" past the end of the outer two splices. I used the shrink with the glue inside for the final outer. Snug as a bug and water tight. Still flexible and only slightly larger dia then the original cable. Coming into 4 years of full time operation and no issues.
I did not do this to cure or eliminate any issues. I like things neat and didn't care for the rat's nest it would make full length.
Ron
I cut my cable the same way and for good measure added a braided stainless sheath over the top the length of the cable (approx, 500 mm) sealed each end with heat shrink, almost looks store brought.

So far so good gauges are staying on for 30 min previously the would shut off any time from 5-15 min, need a longer ride to be sure.
 

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You got it.

So once I get my tuner in recovery mode what do I do with it?
Straight from Dynotech (note: you MAY have to right click that link and "save link to file" or something to that effect depending on your browser). ALSO....IF the recovery operation fails, don't forget my "freezer trick". That was the key to the final solution:

Follow the link below to download a recovery file and save it to a local drive on your computer:
http://dynojetpowervision.com/Downloads/PV_RECOVERY-2.0.0-1197-TuneDB-0.0.9.11.pvr

Install the above recovery file to your Power Vision by following these steps:

While holding the “power button” down on the face of your Power Vision plug in the Power Vision via USB to your computer
You should notice that the screen of the Power Vision has many colored bars and says, “Recovery Mode”
Launch the Power Vision Update Client
Highlight “PV Firmware”
Select “Update from Local File”
Select “PV Recovery”
Point to the file you downloaded from above
Finish the installation of the recovery and then proceed to update the firmware and tune database
 

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not to bring up the dead, but in case someone runs into this thread in the future. I had this problem when i got my PV mid 2015. Was dealing with Dynojet for months, tried different cables, different cable routing, ferrite cores, and finally not until the 3rd PV unit that they sent me did the issue disappear.

if freezing components works, then I'd wager one of the components used in the manufacturing of the device probably has too wide of a +/- variable in its specification and whatever electrical/rf noise the vrod introduces is enough to put the whole thing out of spec.

i'm guessing the 3rd unit they sent me just happened to get lucky and the component in question happened to have a tighter tolerance in its particular spec to where the vrod noise/rf/etc didn't put it out of tolerances.

my 3rd unit has been running flawlessly since 1/2016.
 

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I'm also one to be plagued by this issue... am on the 2nd PV currently. Dynojet replaced the previous one after it worked for a year, and, started giving me this issue where the screen would freeze, for the past 1 year.

Does this occur only with the F? Or has someone actually faced it with a NRS or other bike?

Can anyone (besides freudie1) confirm if putting the PV into a freezer actually fixes this issue please?
 

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I'm also one to be plagued by this issue... am on the 2nd PV currently. Dynojet replaced the previous one after it worked for a year, and, started giving me this issue where the screen would freeze, for the past 1 year.

Does this occur only with the F? Or has someone actually faced it with a NRS or other bike?

Can anyone (besides freudie1) confirm if putting the PV into a freezer actually fixes this issue please?
Sorry to hear you're having issues :( FWIW, mine has been rock solid since that 3rd unit a few years back. Always attached and always on, rain, sun, freezing temps, always working like a champ.

I'd say try a new unit if they're willing to work with you still. Perhaps remind them of me from back in the day :)
 

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I say try the freezer trick. It's free and I have had zero issues since (just did about 400 miles this weekend with no dropouts/etc).
 

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Having the issue on a 2011 NRS was going to try shortening the cable but I know if I send to them they want cable as well and they will just blame that. Will throw in freezer and see if resolves if not sending back to dynojet.

Sent from my SM-G975U1 using Tapatalk
 

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I say try the freezer trick. It's free and I have had zero issues since (just did about 400 miles this weekend with no dropouts/etc).
No issues of moisture/etc? Thinking it'd be best to ziplock it before putting it into the freezer... already spent a fortune on the bike, can't afford to have this go down the drain! Hope you understand my reluctance.
 

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Pretty sure if you need to throw it into the freezer to solve some form of internal connection issue, it would be a short term fix, if at all. There is still a problem with the unit. I'm going on my 6th year now, running full time on a hard mount and not a single glitch. I'd sure miss it if it crapped out now as it's part of the bike. I like to view the extra signals and run a random log the odd time for the hell of it.
Ron
 

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I'm having the same issue. All the guaged except voltage go blank. I have moved the cable every where I can think of. Left side, right side, uncoiled it and ran it in a long loop down the left side just under the air box cover and back.

I have completed a factory reset/recovery, Made sure it was up to date, everything.

I even pulled the cable out and just slung it over my arm so it would be as far away from any electrical interference as possible.

Nothing helps. After a few minutes it goes blank. I have to exit out of guages and go back to them to get it working again.

I'm stumped and frustrated. I'm going to order a new cable and I guess stick the unit in the freezer for a while.

The unit was on the bike when I bought it and the problem as been present since I first rode it home. The units out of warranty so I can't just send it in.

I just added a Target Tune, and really want to get this working to take full advantage of the PV and the TT.
 

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I had a faulty out of warranty pV5- Sent it in for repair- it was unrepairable. The offered me new powervision at a $200.00 discount. If you get a repair order and send it in maybe they will offer you a deep discount on a new powervision?
 
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