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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Had a great meeting at lunch with some guys from a large powdercoating company locally. We are exploring options for powdercoating a set of SE heads.

I have a brand-new set of sand cast SE heads. They are grey (factory powdercoat). I want them to be black. The guys at the shop are looking into it for me. We had a few questions:

Has anyone here had experience laying powdercoat OVER powdercoat - specifically on V-Rod heads? Blasting the old coat off does not seen to be a viable option.

How about paint? Anyone here painted their heads? What paint? How successful was that?

There were two type of powdercoat the shop was considering - the first being more conventional, the second being Teflon. Conventional powdercoating is baked on at about 375 degrees. The Teflon is baked at about 675. We were all concerned about potential damage/warping at the higher temp. Anyone here have any info about how high a temp the heads can safely take?

All info and opinions will be appreciated.
 

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V-Mod.com
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You would be best served stripping the old paint. We have had the stuff lift later when going over the top. Not always, but some.
You definitely will not want to get the heads over 400deg. the Valve guides and seats will drop or move.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
ChopperSteve said:
You would be best served stripping the old paint. We have had the stuff lift later when going over the top. Not always, but some.
You definitely will not want to get the heads over 400deg. the Valve guides and seats will drop or move.
Thanks, Steve - I thought that was a powdercoat on the heads out of the factory - is it paint?
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
ChopperSteve said:
Its Powder. Its from Dupont.
Thanks. It looks like a major PITA to blast it off in addition to risking damage to critical mating surfaces. I am hoping to find an alternative - even if it winds up being paint over PC. Right now I am hoping they can find a way to PC over PC.
 

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Sorry to be the bearer of bad news, but liquid paint doesn't stick to powder very well. It will not etch it's self into the powder. It's like trying to paint glass, there's no bite.But we do strip heads all the time with a combination of Aircraft Striper (brand name) and blasting. Not saying it's not time consuming but it can be done. As for the mating surfaces we either mask with several layers of duct tape and use glass bead (mild abrasive) or lay on a flat surface and stay clear of the faces. Mark
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
CHEESEYRIDER said:
Sorry to be the bearer of bad news, but liquid paint doesn't stick to powder very well. It will not etch it's self into the powder. It's like trying to paint glass, there's no bite.But we do strip heads all the time with a combination of Aircraft Striper (brand name) and blasting. Not saying it's not time consuming but it can be done. As for the mating surfaces we either mask with several layers of duct tape and use glass bead (mild abrasive) or lay on a flat surface and stay clear of the faces. Mark
Thanks Mark -

Even the rough, flat coating HD uses? Then how about powder over powder? Assuming you get a good ground, maybe even preheat a bit... the cooling fins on a VRSC and really more decorative than functional. I would not think some added thickness there wouldn't hurt.
 

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Steppenwolf said:
Had a great meeting at lunch with some guys from a large powdercoating company locally. We are exploring options for powdercoating a set of SE heads.

I have a brand-new set of sand cast SE heads. They are grey (factory powdercoat). I want them to be black. The guys at the shop are looking into it for me. We had a few questions:

Has anyone here had experience laying powdercoat OVER powdercoat - specifically on V-Rod heads? Blasting the old coat off does not seen to be a viable option.

How about paint? Anyone here painted their heads? What paint? How successful was that?

There were two type of powdercoat the shop was considering - the first being more conventional, the second being Teflon. Conventional powdercoating is baked on at about 375 degrees. The Teflon is baked at about 675. We were all concerned about potential damage/warping at the higher temp. Anyone here have any info about how high a temp the heads can safely take?

All info and opinions will be appreciated.
do not blast them with media, not that it will hurt them, but if they are decent sized company, they should have a dunk tank to put them in, it takes a day and the factory coatings will come right off. then you powder them. I would do it with any type of dupont powders, as in I wouldnt even worry about using the high heat powders as its not needed.

Conventional powdercoating baking time and temps vary with the manufacturer, mostly are in the range of 400 -450 for 12- 15 minutes.
I wouldnt even worry about going with the teflon, its just not needed.
This is an easy request to do, strip em , treat em, powder em, bake em to cure, no problems at all.

in fact, send them to me, I'll strip em, coat em black, (gloss or satin or flat, it doesnt matter) you pay shipping both ways, I'll do 'em for $40.00
 

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Steppenwolf said:
Thanks Mark -

Even the rough, flat coating HD uses? Then how about powder over powder? Assuming you get a good ground, maybe even preheat a bit... the cooling fins on a VRSC and really more decorative than functional. I would not think some added thickness there wouldn't hurt.
when powdering over powder, it usually isnt happy, because you never know what type of powders were used previously (polyesters, hybrids etc etc)
It can be done, pre-heat the item, use a good gun with a decent amount of voltage and powder it hot.
 

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Steppenwolf said:
Thanks. It looks like a major PITA to blast it off in addition to risking damage to critical mating surfaces. I am hoping to find an alternative - even if it winds up being paint over PC. Right now I am hoping they can find a way to PC over PC.
if you want to blast, tape off everything sensitive, and be sure to protect it good, then media blast with an aluminum oxide, not an aggresive grit either.
I still recommend a good dunking for the removal of the coatings.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
TurboRoadster said:
if you want to blast, tape off everything sensitive, and be sure to protect it good, then media blast with an aluminum oxide, not an aggresive grit either.
I still recommend a good dunking for the removal of the coatings.
No worry about the valve seats/gudes with the dunking? The heads come with the valves in place... do I need to be pulling those?
 

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Steppenwolf said:
No worry about the valve seats/gudes with the dunking? The heads come with the valves in place... do I need to be pulling those?
yes you will need to pull the valves, but if you do you might have trouble later if when they put them back they do not set them right. i was going to get just the fins done in black ,but after talking to many that it would be to difficult to do.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Thanks all - right now I am leaning towards having them try pre-heating and powder over powder. I am waiting for several engineers and specialists in the company to weigh in - this place usually does large industrial runs, but sometimes do one-off jobs and agreed to look at mine because they thought it would be a nice change of pace and because the sales manager and several engineers there ride. It was kind of cool - we all met in a boardroom! :) I set the heads down on a pad on a big oak table...

Not your typical bike-building environment.
 

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Steppenwolf said:
No worry about the valve seats/gudes with the dunking? The heads come with the valves in place... do I need to be pulling those?
the seals would be the only concern with the baking.
 

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chris top her
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steppenwolf,
take a close look at my bike (gallery). when i did my big bore, i had the heads powder coated wrinkle black. i had to remove the valves and seals. they taped everything off and used plastic media to remove the grey coating and then powder coated them black. when i got them back i washed them with mild soapy water, dryed, prelubed, ad reinstalled the valves and new seals. shimmed my cams, and put the bike back together. i left the fins black and the S.E. badges silver. i have put about 2000 miles on the bike since i finished. if you have any questions, send me a pm......

chris
 

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VRF0RUMS ORIGINAL
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I've tried a few times to powder over powder coat. Mixed results. Usually in my experiences to bake the powder coat off and start over. Also wrinkle/matte finishes seems to be a better candidate for powder over powder (same color of course).
 

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2" of dangling death
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i have to agree with about everyone, remove valves and old powder. i have done several sets, and im getting ready to do mine.
 
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