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I am sure he will get my PM wherever he is.
 

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I was a doubter for the magical mystery oil, however I did try it and after 93 miles my gauge became un-stuck. My float was hanging up just below the red indication. My guess is maybe the oil made it just slippery enough
 

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Buy American!
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Best cleaner for brass?

I believe the are Brass not Copper
Tried several tanks of Seafoam, still not working correctly.
I actually have an 07 CD that is doing this. Except it has a miond of its own at times. Once time going down the road I actually watched the fuel gauge go back up to full. (never knew you could make gas go into your tank while going down the road) Mine will stick... then un stick... I use to work in Auto Parts over 10 years ago and I can remember when we first got Seafoam in. It was new to the area. Someone put their Oil Solution in and it hand grenaded the 454 ( guess it cleaned it out too good ) So I know the stuff cleans real well (bad thing was I was the one that sold the can... and sold it to the family farm so i was stuck between a rock and a hard place on this one.... blame was going back and forth... but anyhow) They make a good product. I know my bike seems to be doing the same as the Pre 07's....Guess I will try it and we will see.
My fuel gauge (LED lights use same resistor sending unit as analog gauge) is acting up a little too. Seafoam sounds a little risky, so I've decided to add Brasso to my next tank.

Ill let you know...
 

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ok, so after heaps of mucking around i have come up with something, my gauge has dead spots through the middle but it's not the strip thats the issue rather the two prongs either side as they dont seem to be putting enough pressure onto the strip so as to provide an easy slide action, i have bent them in harder but with to much pressure the float does not move at all so it needs just enough pressure, soldering them together is not the answer. maybe the float and srip design from he marine engine would be better if modified to suit.
 

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Don't waste your time

This is a great post that makes a lot of sense. Have you considered sending this to Harley? They may be unaware of how the parts work that they purchase to put into thier bikes.
Harley designed the part and showing them a good fix rather than them being able to sell you a whole new sending unit is not in their game plan. They stopped listening to customers and employees regarding issues like this right after the 100th. They'd already made their money.
 

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Well i can confidently say that the gauge seems to be good as gold, i believe that the issue of the prongs not making good contact with the strip is the issue as it needs little resistance to be able to slide up and sown, i have been on the bike everyday since the fix and gone through 4 tanks and from barely reading the fuel level at all to now reading consistantly at all the levels i am happy with the results. it might just mean that the float needs to be disasembled and the prongs tweaked every so often .
 

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Unscrew The Retaining Ring
 

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# 12/50 Ignite LE
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This might be a dumb question, but ihave disconected the plug off the fuel guage sender, but I cant work out how to get the dam thing out. Help please......
Read the instructions for the Fuel Cap Remover/Installer in the attached pdf file. You will get the idea.
 

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Yup, that a pretty dumb question. Take it to the dealer if you can't follow the simple instructions.
 

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My 07DX is currently on its third fuel guage, luckily both replacements came under warranty. My guage is still somewhat irratic for the last 1/4 tank, it is accurate enough I havent been stuck anywhere with an empty tank, yet.
 

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I never got accurate fuel level readings, but my gauge is consistant(ly wrong!) showing me empty at 1/2 tank (refill at about 1.9 ~ 2.1 gal). I tried Seafoam and it made slight changes to my engine, it didn't help my fuel gauge. I'm beginning to think that the damn thing was designed by a frustrated fisherman!
 

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08 NRS same problem

I have a 2008 NRS and my fuel gauge hasn't worked right since about the fourth tank of gas. I had it fixed under warranty and that lasted until a week after warranty ran out. I don't even bother looking at it anymore, just been using the trip meter. I called and was treated like I was stupid b/c this is a known issue with earlier model years. It is a known issue on my bike, which is the only one that matters to me. Is my fuel gauge the same as the one on earlier models? I haven't taken it apart yet, just asking before leaping.

p.s. Seafoam has worked great in all my stuff. gas engines 2/4 stroke, diesel, lawnmower, atv, tractor, truck, corvette, motorcycle all with no problems. This is the first fix I try when I have a fuel problem.
 

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...Is my fuel gauge the same as the one on earlier models? I haven't taken it apart yet, just asking before leaping.

p.s. Seafoam has worked great in all my stuff. gas engines 2/4 stroke, diesel, lawnmower, atv, tractor, truck, corvette, motorcycle all with no problems. This is the first fix I try when I have a fuel problem.
No.

The 2007 and newer VRSC models have “non-contact” ultrasonic fuel level sending units. These have a different (and well documented) problem. Here's a few other threads that discuss it:

Thread 1
Thread 2
Thread 3
Thread 4

I don’t think “Seafoam” or any other cleaner will make any difference on your ultrasonic sending unit since there’s nothing to clean.
 

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K.I.A. '07 AW
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HD recently released a new fuel sending unit for the sonar bikes
 

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# 12/50 Ignite LE
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I just installed a Rick's tank in my '04 and noticed alot of deposits on the resistive strip in the fuel sending unit. It was a dark brown film. I have only had 4 or 5 instances in which my bike showed empty when I knew it had fuel, happened at startup and the needle slowly rose to the correct reading. I cleaned the resistive element with carb/injector cleaner, real easy, I have a pic of the dirty vs clean resistive element and will post it later.
 

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# 12/50 Ignite LE
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Here is a pic of the deposits I found on the resistive strip, left side is the way I found it and the right side after being cleaned. Used carb/choke cleaner, spray on and the residue wipes of real easy onto a clean rag, DO NOT use anything abrasive to clean this. When the resistive strip is clean, then shoot cleaner down the float where it rides up and down against the resistive strip, you can't get a rag in there to wipe so just move the float up and down to clean.

 

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Tnx sammy worked great for me....my gauge did read empty all the time, pulled out the whole sending/pump unit

disconnected/unscrewed the resistive strip and cleaned it with carb.cleaner, brakecleaner and a very fine sanding paper ( very soft rubbing with that).

gauge now reads good, hope it will do that for al long time
 
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