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Discussion Starter #1
I’m looking for the max performance that I can get from my 10’ muscle.
Are there any issues with doing stage II cams, throttle body, and injectors?
Is there anything else that I should consider in the process? I already have slip-ons and an air filter with a Power Commander V and I am running the bike topless. I’m basically looking for the most torque that I can get from this bike with out boring it out.
 

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Elephant Motors Rock
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3,505 Posts
How much money you have $$$?

1) Talk to Scott at Fitzgerald Motorsports (OhioVrod)
2) Talk to Tim Doherty (sideways67)
3) Read up on the threads in Big Bore, Turbo, Nitrous section. There are a number of really knowledgeable people there.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
26t pulley
Not sure that I want to do the pulley. I am on the highway a good bit and it seems that the power now is exactly where I want it when I want to make a pass (no need to downshift). I think if I go to a 26T pulley, it will be revving too high in the 70~80 mph range. Correct me if I'm wrong... Thanks.
 

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How mechanically inclined are you and can you weld? I bought and installed a turbo after spending about two months doing research. Not a kit, bought almost everything on line and fabricated it myself for under $1000.00. I have an 09 F and it feels like it has about 50% more power. You can PM me for details.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
How mechanically inclined are you and can you weld? I bought and installed a turbo after spending about two months doing research. Not a kit, bought almost everything on line and fabricated it myself for under $1000.00. I have an 09 F and it feels like it has about 50% more power. You can PM me for details.
Wow, nice work...
 

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ISU
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1,446 Posts
How mechanically inclined are you and can you weld? I bought and installed a turbo after spending about two months doing research. Not a kit, bought almost everything on line and fabricated it myself for under $1000.00. I have an 09 F and it feels like it has about 50% more power. You can PM me for details.
can you post up what you all did, type of turbo, what you used for an intake and so on
 

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09 VRSCDX
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22 Posts
The 26t and stage 2 cams transform the v into tyre smoking beast,:dance:Just the way it should be.I travel everyday to work on a freeway and have no problems breaking the speed limit.:D Usually cruise at 120-130km/ph here in Oz.
 

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How mechanically inclined are you and can you weld? I bought and installed a turbo after spending about two months doing research. Not a kit, bought almost everything on line and fabricated it myself for under $1000.00. I have an 09 F and it feels like it has about 50% more power. You can PM me for details.


That is a very clean looking setup.....
 

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can you post up what you all did, type of turbo, what you used for an intake and so on
1. bought a .42 A/R 50 trim turbo new on Ebay for $159
2. bought a used A model exhaust on ebay for $150.00
3. bought t-3 flange, stainless v-band clamp & flange, gaskets, oil line fitting kit and blow off valve on ebay for about $150.00
4. bought air filter, hose clamps, silicone fittings and reducers at Pep Boys for about $75.00
5. bought vacuum/pressure (boost) gauge at Pep Boys for about $30.00
6. bought misc. tubing, hoses and fittings at Pep Boys for less than $20.00
7. Made an oil return fitting from a hose to pipe thread adapter, reducing bushing and plug...Home Depot - $about $13.00
8. Bought some stainless steel mandrel bends (various) 2" exhaust manifold, 2 1/2" turbo down pipe on line for about $150.00
9. fabricated an intake manifold from a small piece of 3" thinwall steel pipe, 2" heavy wall pipe, 1/4" steel plate and a manifold gasket as a template. Had this in stock, but you could buy this stuff for less than $50.00
10. bought a 5bar fuel regulator on line for $89.00(cheap remanufactured one that everyone says you should stay away from)
11. Spent about $200.00 on shipping

measured every thing about 20 times, cut once, tac welded every thing in place on the bike , being careful to cover every thing except what was being tac welded. disassembled every thing carefully and did the final welding. used a bench grinder, a 4" hand grinder and a sears die grinder (big dremmel tool) to clean it all up. Drilled and tapped the oil filter manifold for turbo oil supply (similar to the Trask set up)

I had previously purchased TAB slip ons, K&N air filter and the TAB fueler, removed the top of the air box and drilled out the "fake" air scoops. When I installed the turbo, I was concerned about the air/fuel ratio going lean and causing all sorts of problems, but I didn't want to spend the money and time tuning a PCIII or any other aftermarket tuner, so I set the pots on the TAB fueler rich and rode the bike at different speeds, shutting down and coasting to a stop, then checking the spark plug and adjusting the pots until the burn marks on the plug looked right at 3K, 6K and 9K rpms. I haven't had it on a dyno, and haven't checked the A/F ratio, I haven't had it to a track and don't know what kind of time it will do. All I know is that I have had WAY more fun on it since I added the turbo and I have ridden it hard for over 2000 miles and it hasn't burned a drop of oil. It does run hotter and the cooling fans come on more, but I've never had one code pop up. It does run a little rough from 4K to 4.5K rpms when I stay in that range, but pulls right through it when I add throttle. I just don't cruise in that range. Sorry for the long post...hope it helps.
 

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ISU
Joined
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1,446 Posts
1. bought a .42 A/R 50 trim turbo new on Ebay for $159
2. bought a used A model exhaust on ebay for $150.00
3. bought t-3 flange, stainless v-band clamp & flange, gaskets, oil line fitting kit and blow off valve on ebay for about $150.00
4. bought air filter, hose clamps, silicone fittings and reducers at Pep Boys for about $75.00
5. bought vacuum/pressure (boost) gauge at Pep Boys for about $30.00
6. bought misc. tubing, hoses and fittings at Pep Boys for less than $20.00
7. Made an oil return fitting from a hose to pipe thread adapter, reducing bushing and plug...Home Depot - $about $13.00
8. Bought some stainless steel mandrel bends (various) 2" exhaust manifold, 2 1/2" turbo down pipe on line for about $150.00
9. fabricated an intake manifold from a small piece of 3" thinwall steel pipe, 2" heavy wall pipe, 1/4" steel plate and a manifold gasket as a template. Had this in stock, but you could buy this stuff for less than $50.00
10. bought a 5bar fuel regulator on line for $89.00(cheap remanufactured one that everyone says you should stay away from)
11. Spent about $200.00 on shipping

measured every thing about 20 times, cut once, tac welded every thing in place on the bike , being careful to cover every thing except what was being tac welded. disassembled every thing carefully and did the final welding. used a bench grinder, a 4" hand grinder and a sears die grinder (big dremmel tool) to clean it all up. Drilled and tapped the oil filter manifold for turbo oil supply (similar to the Trask set up)

I had previously purchased TAB slip ons, K&N air filter and the TAB fueler, removed the top of the air box and drilled out the "fake" air scoops. When I installed the turbo, I was concerned about the air/fuel ratio going lean and causing all sorts of problems, but I didn't want to spend the money and time tuning a PCIII or any other aftermarket tuner, so I set the pots on the TAB fueler rich and rode the bike at different speeds, shutting down and coasting to a stop, then checking the spark plug and adjusting the pots until the burn marks on the plug looked right at 3K, 6K and 9K rpms. I haven't had it on a dyno, and haven't checked the A/F ratio, I haven't had it to a track and don't know what kind of time it will do. All I know is that I have had WAY more fun on it since I added the turbo and I have ridden it hard for over 2000 miles and it hasn't burned a drop of oil. It does run hotter and the cooling fans come on more, but I've never had one code pop up. It does run a little rough from 4K to 4.5K rpms when I stay in that range, but pulls right through it when I add throttle. I just don't cruise in that range. Sorry for the long post...hope it helps.
very cool thanks
 

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Banned
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3,309 Posts
1. bought a .42 A/R 50 trim turbo new on Ebay for $159
2. bought a used A model exhaust on ebay for $150.00
3. bought t-3 flange, stainless v-band clamp & flange, gaskets, oil line fitting kit and blow off valve on ebay for about $150.00
4. bought air filter, hose clamps, silicone fittings and reducers at Pep Boys for about $75.00
5. bought vacuum/pressure (boost) gauge at Pep Boys for about $30.00
6. bought misc. tubing, hoses and fittings at Pep Boys for less than $20.00
7. Made an oil return fitting from a hose to pipe thread adapter, reducing bushing and plug...Home Depot - $about $13.00
8. Bought some stainless steel mandrel bends (various) 2" exhaust manifold, 2 1/2" turbo down pipe on line for about $150.00
9. fabricated an intake manifold from a small piece of 3" thinwall steel pipe, 2" heavy wall pipe, 1/4" steel plate and a manifold gasket as a template. Had this in stock, but you could buy this stuff for less than $50.00
10. bought a 5bar fuel regulator on line for $89.00(cheap remanufactured one that everyone says you should stay away from)
11. Spent about $200.00 on shipping

measured every thing about 20 times, cut once, tac welded every thing in place on the bike , being careful to cover every thing except what was being tac welded. disassembled every thing carefully and did the final welding. used a bench grinder, a 4" hand grinder and a sears die grinder (big dremmel tool) to clean it all up. Drilled and tapped the oil filter manifold for turbo oil supply (similar to the Trask set up)

I had previously purchased TAB slip ons, K&N air filter and the TAB fueler, removed the top of the air box and drilled out the "fake" air scoops. When I installed the turbo, I was concerned about the air/fuel ratio going lean and causing all sorts of problems, but I didn't want to spend the money and time tuning a PCIII or any other aftermarket tuner, so I set the pots on the TAB fueler rich and rode the bike at different speeds, shutting down and coasting to a stop, then checking the spark plug and adjusting the pots until the burn marks on the plug looked right at 3K, 6K and 9K rpms. I haven't had it on a dyno, and haven't checked the A/F ratio, I haven't had it to a track and don't know what kind of time it will do. All I know is that I have had WAY more fun on it since I added the turbo and I have ridden it hard for over 2000 miles and it hasn't burned a drop of oil. It does run hotter and the cooling fans come on more, but I've never had one code pop up. It does run a little rough from 4K to 4.5K rpms when I stay in that range, but pulls right through it when I add throttle. I just don't cruise in that range. Sorry for the long post...hope it helps.
And Trask charges 5k...
 

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Registered USDA
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Now that's custom and a great job!
 

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Registered
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1,271 Posts
And Trask charges 5k...
its a niche market, what do you expect i guess
Guess it's ok to get raped. I can buy a twin turbo kit fit my car for 5k. That comes with twice the turbos, twice the piping, ten times bigger ic. oh ...wait...it's an extra 500 for a rinky dink, play school looking, side mount, joke of an ic. Not for nothing, who the f would even sell a kit w/o an ic? What is this the 1980's? Just don't tell anyone I posted this or the trask nut swingers will be knocking on my door, lol
 

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Killer Service Inc.
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8,938 Posts
knock knock your Sig. "WTB: turbo, PM or muscle rims"

LMAO
 

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'04 1300
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3,071 Posts
Guess it's ok to get raped. I can buy a twin turbo kit fit my car for 5k. That comes with twice the turbos, twice the piping, ten times bigger ic. oh ...wait...it's an extra 500 for a rinky dink, play school looking, side mount, joke of an ic. Not for nothing, who the f would even sell a kit w/o an ic? What is this the 1980's? Just don't tell anyone I posted this or the trask nut swingers will be knocking on my door, lol
In part, you're paying for the R&D effort (which I'm sure was significant) that went into the kit, as well as the work involved in producing something that looks good, has easy to follow installation instructions, etc. Considering the investment in money and time required for any of the major power-adders on the revo motor, the Trask kit is a decent deal.
 

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Greg/Moderator
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18,951 Posts
Guess it's ok to get raped. I can buy a twin turbo kit fit my car for 5k. That comes with twice the turbos, twice the piping, ten times bigger ic. oh ...wait...it's an extra 500 for a rinky dink, play school looking, side mount, joke of an ic. Not for nothing, who the f would even sell a kit w/o an ic? What is this the 1980's? Just don't tell anyone I posted this or the trask nut swingers will be knocking on my door, lol
Crunch the numbers and see what it will cost to build a Big bore and make 160 hp. :D
 
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