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Discussion Starter #1
I've been talking to Steve at Oberon about a Group buy on his clutch slave cylinder. These have larger diameter pistons & way better materials for longer life & much reduced lever force. This is especially good for forced induction guys with heavier springs in the clutch. I did the first Oberon lever buy years ago.
Steve asked if we could get a video of replacing the slave cylinder as a "how to" to post. This is a beginner level project, but its much easier if you can actually see it done. Question; Is there anyone here willing to create one for the forum ? I'm out of the country until next year at soonest or I'd spend the 30 minutes to do it. Final edit would probably be less than 5 minutes actual work/demonstration. Thanks
 

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Feel free. You can purchase no problem, but the point of a group buy is that in exchange for a guaranteed quantity sale the vendor gives a special reduced price.
that makes sense most of the other group buys i was looking at are because the vender will not make them unless they have enough interest, like jones cams or Trask outboard bearing
 

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+1 for the buy

I’m on stock springs/clutch and the pull is crazy heavy. I was definitely disappointed how hard the pull was when I drove it around. Especially since we have hydraulic clutches
BigFly just installed his and he loves it
 

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I have Oberon Levers on my 06D. They are excellent. Clutch is pretty smooth not to hard. Oberon makes good stuff.
For down the the road I am buying parts like WP Gasket, extra Rear Breather tube, etc.

Sounds like the opinion is the "clutch slave cylinder" or secondary actuator
(wtvr HD calls it) is prone to failure due to quality as stated.

* If that is the case I'm in for 1 unit thanks.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Jan-Dirk, total motion of the slave does not change. The pressure created by the larger diameter of the bore pushes harder on the release mechanism in the clutch, but requires less pressure at the clutch lever for lower "feel".
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Here's a post from SteveR on how easy the slave is to swap out, this is the line only but there are only three more bolts;

Quote:
Originally Posted by zimmerman1150 View Post
Trying to find I fo on how to replace clutch cable on 05vrsca ...
...
I'm assuming you mean the clutch hydraulic fluid line.

There's nothing that complicated except to note where it is routed before removing the old line. This is the procedure (more or less) as shown on page 2-33 of Service Manual (99501-05):

Remove secondary clutch actuator cover and place a catch container below to catch the fluid.
Remove clutch line flare nut fitting from secondary clutch actuator and allow fluid to drain.
Remove banjo bolt from clutch fluid reservoir.
There are three clips on the right side lower frame rail that hold the line in place that need to be removed
Pull the banjo fitting end out through upper triple clamp and pull down along right front down tube below radiator.
Pull the flare nut end out along the lower frame rail and out through the front down tubes.
Reverse this procedure for clutch fluid line installation.
Bleed clutch.

Fastener torque specs:

Banjo bolt: 23 to 31 Nm (17 to 23 ft·lbs)
Clutch line flare nut: 9 to 13 Nm (80 to 115 in·lbs)
Bleeder screw: 9 to 11 Nm (80 to 100 in·lbs)
Reservoir cover screws: 0.7 to 0.9 Nm (6 to 8 in·lbs)
Secondary clutch actuator cover screws: 6 to 10 Nm (53 to 88 in·lbs)
 

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At any time you increase the slave piston dia while keeping the same master cyl bore, pressure will feel less but clutch disengagement will be less at the same time. Simple hydraulics of input stroke and psi acting on the larger surface area of the slave. However, there might be enough travel to accomplish clutch plate separation with the reduced pressure if plates are not warped etc.
Ron
 

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I think Don't need to replace the clutch fluid line.
Unless you are upgrading the clutch fluid line.

Just R&R the clutch slave cylinder (2ndry clutch actuator)
R&R the end of the fluid line at the actuator...?
Bleed fill and that's it..

I'm in for 1 thx
 
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