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myvrodrocks
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6,021 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I need some help form anyone that has had the tranny apart....

Can the output shaft be removed without splitting the case?

I changed my flange today, to put on the 28t pulley and I think maybe, due to improper belt deflection, I may have damaged the ouput shaft bearings.

When pushing the bike you can hear a clunk coming from the pully area....like a heavy binding...

Today, when pulling the flange...I noticed the shaft has an awful lot of play...up/down - side/side and not in and out play...

I also noticed the 2 bearings on this shaft are not listed in the parts catalog...only the entire shaft assembly???
 

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Color me Gone
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27,333 Posts
You have to split the cases and press the bearings off the shaft to get them off. That video shows a very very loose shaft. You have something wrong without a doubt. Keep in mind though that it could be either end of the bearings and it's hard to tell. 4th and 5th gear are right behind that bearing and 1st gear is at the other end of the shaft. If the bearing on the front of the shaft goes bad it can cause a lot of play but no leaks.
 

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durata membro
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17,603 Posts
That is alot of slop.How do you think you did this?
Also,if you can't get the bearings separate from Harley,there are bearing supply companys that can match the #'s .There are 2 company's here in my city that are exellent to deal with.



Elrod on the V-Rod
 

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"A" is the only way
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3,349 Posts
:eek:

I would start pulling the motor out now, I imagine that could do more damage to the tranny if ran like that.
 

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myvrodrocks
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6,021 Posts
Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Holy crap I feel sick...this is not something I can do myself is it?

I think I can pull the motor...but take it apart? Can I just remove the botom case and take out the gears, or do I need to tear down the top and mess with the cam chains as well?

Are that going to be crazy tools invloved?

I am pulling the manual now....
 

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myvrodrocks
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6,021 Posts
Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Oh boy...probably better to pull the engine and drop it off at a shop....

I guess I could do it provided I had the tools.

Wasnt there an issue with the shifter forks from '03? Guess I will start looking for those...

Would be a good time to install lower compression pistons...what to do?
 

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Color me Gone
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27,333 Posts
Splitting the case isn't rocket science. You don't have to pull anything except the oil pan and the two side covers. You then seperate the lower case with the motor sitting upside down and the lower case just lifts off with the trans in it. You should count on new main bearings (the crank will have the color code needed on it, most are green). You really don't even have to replace any gaskets as they can all be re-used. What ever the trans needs is going to be your biggest expense.
 

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myvrodrocks
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6,021 Posts
Discussion Starter · #10 ·
So I read the part about the new crank bearings...you are saying that I cannot order them until after I have split the case? Same as the bearings, I have to split it first, then compile a list of parts...?

Do I need to replace these shifter forks?

How about the tools the manual refers to? 11 tools

Do you need all of those? Can I buy them from somewhere? I still cannot find a clutch hub holder...
 

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Color me Gone
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27,333 Posts
myvrodrocks said:
So I read the part about the new crank bearings...you are saying that I cannot order them until after I have split the case? Same as the bearings, I have to split it first, then compile a list of parts...?

Do I need to replace these shifter forks?

How about the tools the manual refers to? 11 tools

Do you need all of those? Can I buy them from somewhere? I still cannot find a clutch hub holder...
Don't order the bearings until you take it apart.

If you have an 02-03 I do suggest the new drum and shift forks.

If you have air pressure there isn't a single special tool you need to split the cases. If you don't you do want a clutch holder, I have one some place but it has been all over the country and hasn't been home in months. :rofl:
 

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"A" is the only way
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3,349 Posts
I have a jig I made out of wood for holding the input shaft to the case when you pull it apart, so you don't need to buy that either. I can send you a drawing of it. That's about it for the special tools I think for the lower end. When you get into the top then it's a different kind of beast.
 

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myvrodrocks
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6,021 Posts
Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Wait a minute....crank bearings? Do I just replace the exposed 1/2 or both sides? And if both, tneh i ahve to remove it and that means rod bearings as well?
 

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myvrodrocks
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6,021 Posts
Discussion Starter · #14 ·
nic_a_bod said:
I have a jig I made out of wood for holding the input shaft to the case when you pull it apart, so you don't need to buy that either. I can send you a drawing of it. That's about it for the special tools I think for the lower end. When you get into the top then it's a different kind of beast.

Ok...that I can see. But what about the alternator/stator cover puller and all the allignment dowels and pins? Can you just be careful adn get away without them?

Where do I get the new drum and forks?
 

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Color me Gone
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27,333 Posts
myvrodrocks said:
Wait a minute....crank bearings? Do I just replace the exposed 1/2 or both sides? And if both, tneh i ahve to remove it and that means rod bearings as well?
Without pulling the crank you can lift it up enough to stick in new bearings and push it right back down. The rods and pistons will even hold it up for you. :)
 

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Color me Gone
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27,333 Posts
myvrodrocks said:
Ok...that I can see. But what about the alternator/stator cover puller and all the allignment dowels and pins? Can you just be careful adn get away without them?

Where do I get the new drum and forks?
You don't have to pull the stator, the dowels in the cover are in it. You just make sure you don't lose them when you have it off.
 

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Frank
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4,319 Posts
myvrodrocks said:
Ok...that I can see. But what about the alternator/stator cover puller and all the allignment dowels and pins? Can you just be careful adn get away without them?
I would recommend that you purchase 2 long 6mmx1.00 bolts and cut off the heads, then grind a slight taper on the head side, When you remove the bolts on the alternator cover, thread these bolts in on both sides of the stator when the orignial bolts were. This will keep things aligned once the cover clears the alignment dowels on the case. There is a pretty stong magnetic pull, so be careful with your fingers.

Make sure you have the tapered bolts in place when you re-install the cover to prevent misalignment and damage to the alternator. Be aware that the cover will try to pull itself back onto the motor with strong magnetic force so keep your fingers clear.
 

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myvrodrocks
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6,021 Posts
Discussion Starter · #18 ·
This is great. You guys really give me the confidence to do this. I really appreciate your assiatance.

I think if I do this now, the waiting time for parts will mean that I cannot go to Europen Bike Week... :(

But that is a small sacrifice if this will save my cases....

What is the gerneral opinion here? Does this absolutly need to be done without driving another mile....or can this hold up for a month? Dumb, but very hopeful question....

I guess if there is play then the bearings can move and that could damage the case that holds them?

Let me know what you all would do....
 

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myvrodrocks
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6,021 Posts
Discussion Starter · #19 ·
nic_a_bod said:
I have a jig I made out of wood for holding the input shaft to the case when you pull it apart, so you don't need to buy that either. I can send you a drawing of it. That's about it for the special tools I think for the lower end. When you get into the top then it's a different kind of beast.

Yes please! That would be great! Thanks...:notworth:
 
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