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Lincoln_imp
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10 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
It seems I've joined the long list of owners with a failed output shaft bearing.
More than competent at doing the job myself, but from the experience of others I have a couple of questions:
What fasteners are best to loosen while the engine is in the frame?
And does the clutch need to come off?

It looks like I need to make alignment pins for the alternator cover, and a retainer for the gearbox shafts, but other than that, any other special tools I need to make?

I was going to replace both bearings on the output shaft, and the mains while the motor is open.


Any other hints and tips welcome!

Phil
 

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Autobanmod
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9,907 Posts
The clutch hub nut is best to loosen while the engine is in the frame. Yes you must take it off.
Also the front pulley nut (while applying the rear brake).
 

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Lincoln_imp
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10 Posts
Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Ta very much.
I've been reading the workshop manual this morning, and it seems I need to make crankcase alignment pins, and a crankshaft locking pin too.
I have a lathe, so won't be too tricky.
Thanks for the advice on the clutch.

Will be a couple of days before I dive in.

Phil
 

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Autobanmod
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9,907 Posts
Both RH, alternator is LH
The newer engines from 2008 or so onwards don't have the bore for the crankshaft locking pin. Anyhow, normally you don't need it because you don't want to play with valve timing and the valve gear & chains can/should remain untouched in place, and the balancer shaft is aligned by markings.

The long alignment studs for the engine cases are not really needed.
The clutch holding tool is helpful, as an alternative some people have used the square opening on the crankshaft primary gear (used to drive the oil pump) wheel to lock the clutch while the cases are still together.


Early engines until 2005 or so had issues with the shifter assembly and gear forks, the shifter drum needs a tiny bit of axial play.

Pay attention that the new bearings don't slip out of the outer race fixing pin when you turn the case around for assembly. Use a cable tie on the pulley side to keep the output shaft in place.

Always use Loctite

Have fun!
 

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Lincoln_imp
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10 Posts
Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Thank for the advise. You've provided lots of very useful hints for me.
This is the sort of thing forums are meant for!

Thanks again.
 

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Premium Member
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2,512 Posts
Don't forget you will need all the shaft seals, gaskets and case split sealant as well, main & maybe rod bearings ( order when you get engine disassembled by markings on crank ) I just ordered every bearing and seal in the gearbox and engine & the shifter springs but I'm doing a complete rebuild. It's nice to have a H-D or Jims clutch hub holder for your standard or slipper clutch removal and proper re-torque of the clutch ( some use an air or electric impact wrench to remove & install ) I bought a H-D alternator cover puller, pins couple other tools too just to make things easier.
 
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