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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Anybody running any oil other than 20/50? Seems too thick for a motor like this. I was thinking about going with a 10/40 synthetic.

Also: Is 500 miles too soon to switch over,or does this engine really need 1000 mile break in?
Thanks
Eric
 

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SNAFU
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There's a lot of oil discussions on the forums but no one has been running anything other than either 20/50 or 15/50 (Mobil 1 red cap). I suggest whatever you decide to run you not deviate from the recommended viscosity and service grade. I suspect that Harley / Porsche had a few decent engineers come up with the spec ;)

500 or 1000 should not make any difference. I don't think any motor has EVER had an oil related incident because the oil was changed too soon or too often.
 

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mjw930 said:
There's a lot of oil discussions on the forums but no one has been running anything other than either 20/50 or 15/50 ...I suspect that Harley / Porsche had a few decent engineers come up with the spec
Actually, on Page 60 of the owners manual (2002 models, at least) they DO recommend running 10W-40 in applications where the lowest ambient temperature will be below 40 Deg. F. For a guy living in southern Wisconsin during early springtime this is not, perhaps, an unreasonable expectation. I have noticed that the CE light comes on momentarily when doing a cold start at these temperatures (while running 20W-50 Syn3) - I suspect that the motor is a little sluggish with the heavier oil, causing a fleeting voltage drop and triggering the engine light. The 10W-40 grade would provide superior cold-start protection. However, once the temperatures warm up, I would stick with the 20W-50.
 

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COOLER RIDER
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Is this the same recomendations as the big twins? I thought the diesel oil thing was for the higher temps of the air cool motors? Is it also better for the water cooled revolution or did they get lazy and take the same page out of their old manuals?
 

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OKIE said:
Is this the same recomendations as the big twins? I thought the diesel oil thing was for the higher temps of the air cool motors? Is it also better for the water cooled revolution or did they get lazy and take the same page out of their old manuals?

That is the same thing I was wondering. I do use 10w-40 and have had no problems.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
zzzz said:
That is the same thing I was wondering. I do use 10w-40 and have had no problems.
I'm going to go with the 10/40 synthetic. I sure don't like what I hear on a cold start with 20/50.
I don't know what the normal oil pressure is on the V-rod,but I suspect it's alot higher than an air cooled bike. Add to that some cold 20/50...... got to be hard on the gaskets etc...
Eric
 

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Why would anyone run any oil other than what's in the owners manual. The manufacture spends millions on R&D, doing anything outside what they say will void any warrenty you may have. That said as long as you run it within the owners manual your ok.
 

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Missin44, I'm with you.
 

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Sorry,

I don't believe for a second that they (any MoCo) spends MILLIONS on R&D then consider a specific oil viscosity. At best I would think that the protection values of all oil are known to the MFG's. They pick the oils that fit in a range of usage and call it done.

Just curious. You guys that live and die by the manual, do you only replace the oil every 5,000 miles as indicated by the service chart, or do you do it more frequently?

Motor oil and exhaust pipes seem to get peoples bristles up..
 

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greenham said:
Sorry,

I don't believe for a second that they (any MoCo) spends MILLIONS on R&D then consider a specific oil viscosity. At best I would think that the protection values of all oil are known to the MFG's. They pick the oils that fit in a range of usage and call it done.
Probably true to a degree. But oil companies do spend millions in the R&D of their products in the support of ever increasing engine requirements. Also, I've got to believe that when HD/Porche engineers were disigning the motor, the extreme capability of available hi-tech lubricants was a defining factor.

As to whether you use Mobile1 15/50 synth for autos or Mobile1 synth 20/50 (or 10/40) for motorcyces..... I've tried to educate myself as much as can on the topic and will tell you -- I think it depends on what sort of demands you place on the bike. I'll pay another $4 per qt and feel confident about ridin' like I stole it.
 

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Sorry for digging up such an oil thread but I'm still undecided whether to go with the 10w40 or 20w50 option stated in the service manual. I live in a tropical country where the ambient temp ranges between 30C to 34C so cold start is not a concern for me. The Revolution engine in the VROD is supposed to be a modern (read : well built to close tolerances) water-cooled engine so are there valid reasons why we should continue to use such a viscous weight like 20w50?

Using a high-tech fully synthetic ester-based engine oil like Motul 4T Sports 10w40, where the oil doesn't shear easily and the flashpoint is high, seems like a good reason to choose the lower allowed viscosity to allow for cooler running temp and fuel efficiency. Reading through many previous postings in this forum, I can see that the 20w50 is the most popular weight used by VROD riders. Anyone care to convince me that the 20w50 is still the better option?
 

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ecuflasher said:
I live in a tropical country where the ambient temp ranges between 30C to 34C so cold start is not a concern for me. ...<SNIP> seems like a good reason to choose the lower allowed viscosity to allow for cooler running temp and fuel efficiency.
If you live in an environment where you are unlikely to ever see cold temperatures, all the more reason to stick with the 20W50.

The engine is designed to run with the coolant fluids (and I'm including the oil in this) running between 185-200F. You will gain nothing by running any cooler, and in fact are more likely to damage the engine by not having sufficient viscosity.

The oil's viscosity is what makes is stick to the metal surfaces inside the engine (think of how honey sticks to surfaces, where water would just run off). Viscosity is also dependent on temperature - as the oil gets hotter, it also gets less viscous. Running too low a viscosity oil would give you insufficient thickness of oil on the bearings and cam surfaces.

Its a reasonable question. But stick with the factory recommendations.
 

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The service manual states both the 10w40 and the 20w50 are suitable weights to use. Are you saying that using a 10w40, a weight approved by HD for the VROD, is likely to damage the engine? 10w40 is recommended for temp below 40F while 20w50 is recommended for temp above 40F. It isn't clear whether one or the another shouldn't be used for my application. From my experience, a more viscous weight will retain heat and might cause overheating. By running cooler, I mean keeping the oil temp within operating range instead of overheating.

Maybe what I should ask is this...what's the HTHS needed to keep this engine performing optimally? Some 40weight oils are as viscous as 50weight oils by other manufacturers.
 

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JimL
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Simple rules to live by:

Rule 1: Change oil every 3 to 4 months. Filter too.

Rule 2: See Rule 1.

BTW: Use any of the recommended oils, including all the trendy synthetics. Select by temperature range recommended.

"Ride hard... you can rest when you die"

JimL
07 D
 

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vroddrew said:
If you live in an environment where you are unlikely to ever see cold temperatures, all the more reason to stick with the 20W50.

The engine is designed to run with the coolant fluids (and I'm including the oil in this) running between 185-200F. You will gain nothing by running any cooler, and in fact are more likely to damage the engine by not having sufficient viscosity.

The oil's viscosity is what makes is stick to the metal surfaces inside the engine (think of how honey sticks to surfaces, where water would just run off). Viscosity is also dependent on temperature - as the oil gets hotter, it also gets less viscous. Running too low a viscosity oil would give you insufficient thickness of oil on the bearings and cam surfaces.

Its a reasonable question. But stick with the factory recommendations.

:them: Not to mention this engine requires a more viscous oil to handle the HIGH RPM's. Also, I don't believe there is enough of a difference between 20-50 and 10-40 to cause damage per se, but certainly enough of a difference to allow better cold starts and still provide protection. I'm not a die hard "live by the manual" rider, but with the oil I would stick to the recommendations.
BTW, give your bike a good break in, then switch to synthetics. It'll run forever. Just my 2 cents.
 
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