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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Ok, so I have been meaning to do this for a while now and post up about my experiences with oil pressure since I installed the guage a loong long time ago!

Here's the link as to why my motor blew, and It all has to do with the fact that the oil pressure switch, that turns your oil pressure light in your dash off, is the same switch used on Evo's, Sporty's, and TC's and will turn your light off at a much lower pressure (5-12psi) than what the motor actually needs!!!:bash:

http://www.1130cc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=31040


With a cold motor, and cold oil, the pressure jumps up to over 80psi and stays there, from idle all the way through to redline. Once it starts to warm up, the pressure starts to slowly descend at idle as the oil gets thinner, but moves right the way back to 80psi at anything past just cracking the throttle open - I mean the response of the guage is so quick I think I might bend the needle!!!
Once fully fully hot, the pressure never drops below 30psi at idle, and always moves up to over 70 psi at cruising, and will see 80psi at sustained higher rpm's.

Needless to say, the new oil pump that went in there saw a little massage treatment in order operate more efficiently, and it appears to be doing so.:D

Hope you find this info usefull!!!:moped:
 

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"A" is the only way
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I think a oil pressure gauge should be the first mod anyone should do, yeah that oil pressure switch they have is more like a indicator of how much money your going to spend depending on how long you run it for when the light comes on. I would love to see the moco put a oil pressure gauge into the cluster a nice little digital read out next to the odo. or something like that.
 

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The Hawk
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I am seeing very similar results with my gauge. Mine peaks at about 74# when cold and drops to 30# when hot at idle but runs at about 70# at hot cruise.

Mike
 

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Is there a replacement oil pressure switch with a minimum of 20 psi? It looks like this should be a standard mod on all Vrods. Looks like a part for the forum store.
 

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"A" is the only way
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The sending units on the electronic ones that I looked at were to big to tap into the space where the oil pressure switch it at now so I have a hose runing to the gauge from there.
 

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Think Warm & Sunny
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So...I'm sold on the need for an oil pressure gage. Being without a manual, exactly where is the OEM sender.

Also, what size/thread do I need to intall a gauge?

Suggestions on gauges? Range? and where did you mount it?

Thanks for the help
 

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The Hawk
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Here is the one I use, I had it mounted to the bar behind the brake master cylinder with double sided tape, but made an aluminum plate that mounts to the master cylinder bolts in the same place. The sender unit is about the size of my little finger. I tried to get it mounted with the stock sender still hooked up but couldn't get both mounted at once, so I only use the gauge. Expensive at $159 from dynotunenitrous.com. It is not water proof but seems to be water resistant. I have soaked it when washing the bike and riding in some downpours. Occasionally, 2 or three times, when wet it gives wierd readings but is ok as soon as it dries out. I used to use it as a boost gauge but switched over to oil pressure when the turbo came off. Been running it for over a year now.

Mike
 

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"A" is the only way
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WEATHERMAN said:
So...I'm sold on the need for an oil pressure gage. Being without a manual, exactly where is the OEM sender.

Also, what size/thread do I need to intall a gauge?

Suggestions on gauges? Range? and where did you mount it?

Thanks for the help

Mounting mine in the horn cover, my gauge goes to 100, the oil pressure switch is in between the cylinders on top of the casing kind of tucked in by the front cylinder. I would go buy a manual also a parts book. I don't know the size thread off hand.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
I am using a guage that goes up to 100#, fed with a braided brakeline hose that is connected to a "T" fitting right at the pressure switch which is under the throttle bodies. Pics later!
 

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Color me Gone
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sparks'n'dust said:
I am using a guage that goes up to 100#, fed with a braided brakeline hose that is connected to a "T" fitting right at the pressure switch which is under the throttle bodies. Pics later!
Do you really even need the pressure switch anymore, the reason I say that is the weak link in your system is most likely the T used to pipe the two together as far as mechanical weak links goes. I thought about using a mechanical gauge also and placing it on the horn tab on the frame.
 

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Max said:
Do you really even need the pressure switch anymore, the reason I say that is the weak link in your system is most likely the T used to pipe the two together as far as mechanical weak links goes. I thought about using a mechanical gauge also and placing it on the horn tab on the frame.
I would say you do still need a switch but not necessarily the stock switch. With the gauge mounted on the horn tab or cover, you probably won't notice it unless you purposefully look at it. This is even more true on the D and R models with the mid controls; your knee can cover the horn. If you ride at night, you'll need to position one of your LED pods near the gauge so you can read it; mechanical oil pressure gauges are not illuminated.

If, however, you install the gauge and replace the stock pressure switch with a 20psi pressure switch, you have the gauge for purposeful reading of pressure and the oil light on the speedo lights up on at anything below 20psi. Note that there is also an adjustable version of the pressure switch that you can set to anything between 20-50psi.

Note: The ECM doesn't set a code for low oil pressure, so you could adjust the pressure switch to go off as high as you want without the need to clear a code.

Anyway, the gauge and 20psi switch is probably the way I'll go.

Ghost
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Max said:
Do you really even need the pressure switch anymore, the reason I say that is the weak link in your system is most likely the T used to pipe the two together as far as mechanical weak links goes. I thought about using a mechanical gauge also and placing it on the horn tab on the frame.
The T I used is from a HD BT Oil guage kit - still holdin up and no leaks (yet anyways!)
You are right though, in that with a guage there is no real need for the switch, but I like the idea of it being there and functional - can you trust the guage 100%??? Just insurance and peace of mind really.
Would make more sense witha 20# switch though...
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
nightrod81 said:
wear do you git a high performance oil pump? im building a turbo motor and was wondering if thay have something out like that
I really dont know, but you could check out Fueling - they make some real neat stuff.
However, you can tweak the stock pump to be a lot more efficient and effective at maintaing good, proper, decent pressure - constantly.
 

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_NoHighLikeMostHigh_
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Ghost said:
I would say you do still need a switch but not necessarily the stock switch. With the gauge mounted on the horn tab or cover, you probably won't notice it unless you purposefully look at it. This is even more true on the D and R models with the mid controls; your knee can cover the horn. If you ride at night, you'll need to position one of your LED pods near the gauge so you can read it; mechanical oil pressure gauges are not illuminated.

If, however, you install the gauge and replace the stock pressure switch with a 20psi pressure switch, you have the gauge for purposeful reading of pressure and the oil light on the speedo lights up on at anything below 20psi. Note that there is also an adjustable version of the pressure switch that you can set to anything between 20-50psi.

Note: The ECM doesn't set a code for low oil pressure, so you could adjust the pressure switch to go off as high as you want without the need to clear a code.

Anyway, the gauge and 20psi switch is probably the way I'll go.

Ghost
So what would be the kit number to buy if you just wanted to change the current gauge with the same wiring but have it be adjustable. 4010 or 4300???

Thanks.
 

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dmlkm said:
So what would be the kit number to buy if you just wanted to change the current gauge with the same wiring but have it be adjustable. 4010 or 4300???

Thanks.
Hmmm 4010, and 4300? RPM, no no you go off of pressure not RPM, the 2 correlate, but I don't know the difference between the two.
 

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nic_a_bod said:
Hmmm 4010, and 4300? RPM, no no you go off of pressure not RPM, the 2 correlate, but I don't know the difference between the two.
Sorry, I was talking about part numbers in the post I quoted.
4010 15 - 50 PSI Adj. Oil Pressure, 1/8 NPT $29.21
Low Oil Pressure Sender Only
Part No. Description Price
4300 15 - 50 Adj. Low Oil Pressure $21.22
 

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dmlkm said:
Sorry, I was talking about part numbers in the post I quoted.
4010 15 - 50 PSI Adj. Oil Pressure, 1/8 NPT $29.21
Low Oil Pressure Sender Only
Part No. Description Price
4300 15 - 50 Adj. Low Oil Pressure $21.22
The 4010 is a warning light kit with the sender, indicator light, and wiring. If you want to use the existing wiring for the oil pressure light, you only need the sender (4300).

Ghost
 

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Color me Gone
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I got one of the 20psi from stockcarproducts. I guess I should pay more attention when I order things but for a $15 switch they charged me $30, that was $8 shipping and $6 to put it in the box. Do a search for longacre 4308 who is the maker of it and the part number. I found a dozen places that sell the switch cheaper then they did and I doubt they all charge $6 to put it in the box.
 
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