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"A" is the only way
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Greetings,

I hear alot of people trashing this pipe. I know in earlier years there were problems, but all have been corrected now. I have the 09 Muscle with the Indy pipe for it which I have heard is the third generation. There is a piece directly welded to the pipe that pushes the oil line away from the head pipe. I spent this whole last bikeweek sitting in traffic and nothing at all happened to the iol line, again there is a welded piece that pushes the line away. What pipe did you order?? Does it have the welded bracket that pushes the line away ?? I think too many people are ordering the racing destroyer pipe instead of the baffeled comp pipe.
You will want to zip tie your oil line back still............. if you don't think so go grab that welded on spacer after the bike is running you'll change your mind in a hurry
 

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Discussion Starter #42
yea a metal spacer makes no sense. Why dont they just change the head pipe or offer a new line. Jeez.
 

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Posting From The Pub
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This is a destroyer pipe which is what I wanted. This destroyer pipe almost touches the frame on my bike.
What do you mean a Destroyer pipe?

As far as I know there is ONE competition V&H pipe, originally called the Indy, now called the Competition Series or something.

And the chap who thinks a metal spacer is going to save his oil line is in for a very nasty shock, by the sound of it.
 

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"A" is the only way
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3,349 Posts
What do you mean a Destroyer pipe?

As far as I know there is ONE competition V&H pipe, originally called the Indy, now called the Competition Series or something.

And the chap who thinks a metal spacer is going to save his oil line is in for a very nasty shock, by the sound of it.
There is multiple versions now, but they still are making the original indy that was only made to go on destroyer that has the egt fittings also and no oil line stand off. It has had different names also, it's now labeled destroyer competition pipe. This one doesn't have the increased clearance for street riding also.

And there is a few other styles now, muscle slip on, muscle competition, to go along with the v-rod competition

They are all listed under v&h race shop site.........
http://www.vhmotorsports.com/product_zoom/products.html
 

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Posting From The Pub
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There is multiple versions now, but they still are making the original indy that was only made to go on destroyer that has the egt fittings also and no oil line stand off. It has had different names also, it's now labeled destroyer competition pipe. This one doesn't have the increased clearance for street riding also.

And there is a few other styles now, muscle slip on, muscle competition, to go along with the v-rod competition

They are all listed under v&h race shop site.........
http://www.vhmotorsports.com/product_zoom/products.html
Hang on though, that pipe isn't for road V-Rods is it? That is only designed to fit the track bike (I though)...
 

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Discussion Starter #46
my pipe is the destroyer pipe with egt fittings.
 

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K.I.A. '07 AW
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yea too bad it doesnt protect over 500 or direct contact.
think you misread my previous post... continuous protection to 500ºF and short-term exposure thru 2200ºF. That means you can put it in a 500ºF oven indefinitely and it will not fail, however, it can withstand upto 2200ºF for short term. In other words, if your bike is idling at a standstill and the exterior engine temp gets up to 2200F, it will protect the oil line for a short period of time. Of course if your exterior engine temp is getting to 2200F you have bigger problems on your hands.
 

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Discussion Starter #48
I understood what you said. It sucks, but bottom line is that it touches and I cant use the pipe. Thanks for everyones help!
 

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Discussion Starter #50
lol thats what I want to do...smash a brand new pipe.
 

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Smash it with a BFH and clearance that bitch.

There's more than one car header on the market that you have to lay a pipe on one of the primaries and give it a good Paulie Walnuts "crack" with a hammer to get a nice dimple in it to have it fit right. Some even come preclearanced for certain obstacles like that and the factory dimple looks like they did it with a pipe and a hammer.
 

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There's more than one car header on the market that you have to lay a pipe on one of the primaries and give it a good Paulie Walnuts "crack" with a hammer to get a nice dimple in it to have it fit right. Some even come preclearanced for certain obstacles like that and the factory dimple looks like they did it with a pipe and a hammer.
I smashed the right side header on my 64 Chevy II Nova when I did the smallblock swap. I could of bought one of those small ass, expensive high torque starters, but banging on a header tube was cheaper and didn't pinch it all that much anyways.
 
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