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is this for picture two then? You anything about picture one? But there is no oil on the cylinder. Checked a video on youtube. Everything else is dry. And i dont think there should be oil behind the screw on cylinder head?
That screw has a jet in it for lubing the center of the transmission gears. I forget the exact name of it but I think it's called a block throttle port or similar. It's under engine oil pressure so might need a new seal under the head of the bolt . Likely a copper or aluminum crush washer of sorts. Can't determine the other leak source from the pic. The odd time it might seep from the cam cap area of the gasket and creep along the joint to the back but that's about it. Rest of gasket by design is pretty rock solid against leaking. Got a better pic of the leak there? Is it clean and dry everywhere else on that cover, on the breather tube side?
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Everything is clean and dry. Picture one has a jet and a new seal may help?

on picture two, i have cleaned the screw and there is no more oil around there. Should there be oil behind that screw or dry?
Screw in cover is on the outside of sealing so oil has either migrated there from somewhere else along the gap or the sealing is compromised inside of the screw path (slim to nil). Check your front breather hose for possible oil blowing back to that cover. Wind can do some weird shit. Ok, that fitting under the rear cyl is called a Throttle Plug . The sealing washer is # 6298M and the o-ring is 11362K. I'm sure there are automotive substitutes for both when you have it out to look at it.
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Thanks.
I will look there. But is i correct that there should be oil directly under the screw on top of the cylinder? Or i something wrong there?
There should be no oil there. If you had that screw out, make sure you blow any oil out of there before torqueing it to 85 inch pounds or the hydro lock could crack that area of the head around the threads.
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Yup, that's the rear breather hose. Looks like some home repair done to it. Front is probably bad also. Replace both. To do the job right and know where you stand, I'd suggest the following. Remove the airbox cover, filter and the lower air box. Pull bullet out of head and replace the o ring on it. Part number 11391K. Replace front breather tube # 29504-05A, and the rear breather tube # 29505-05. Put a new throttle body gasket onto the bottom of lower airbox #29439-01
Don't know if you have a SM or not so follow this.
The bullet gets pushed into head first with a tad of lube on the new o ring installed on the brass bullet. The airbox front breather is lowered over it and the stacks and bolts installed. Note the stack to box index marks for front and rear. Alternate the box bolts when tightening. Do not overtighten. Good snug is all they need. Slide the velocity stack o rings back down the bolt head tops. Hook up rear breather hose with clamp. Breather, lid and done. Don't forget the front box lid clip.
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Big thank you. I will order this parts. really appreciate.
No problem. On a side not with these breather tubes. Two things seem to happen. The rear, it seems to dry up and crack from the outside. I've always coated mine with a light rub of dielectric grease to protect it from ozone. This will stop the cracking and add years of life to it. The front breather tube doesn't seem to crack but loses it's sealing grip on the bullet over time and seeps. A thin coating of sensor safe rtv on the bullet where the breather tube slides over seems to eliminate that. The inside rib area of the breather tube must be free of all oil for this to work. A second option is to use a spring clamp, same as the rear breather to head connection but it's a bitch to get the room in there to do that. In either case, these breather tubes are cheap enough and most carry spares for down the road if needed.
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Those buttons are part of the gasket. Normally don't leak unless reused and no silicone used on that sharp area where the two half circles meet at the head and cover. This is a big task to replace. Clean the whole area with brake clean and make sure it is in fact leaking and not some residual. If in fact leaking, only two options. Replace the gasket or do as neat of a sealing task as possible with black rtv around the button as neat as possible. Clean whole area with brake clean. Apply around the disc and wet finger to push it down in there to be slightly below the disc OD. Clean off any extra unwanted with solvent. Done right, you will be the only one that knows it there. If replacing, good part is, if the rear, replacement isn't too awfully bad. The cover will come out the right side. Front is a pain in the ass, needing more procedure. If you have an upcoming valve lash interval soon, seal for now and replace gaskets at that time.
Ron
 

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