Traveling a lot. Unfortunately, I had to abandon the V-Rod concept and now ride a Road Warrior. Mostly for financial reasons, but also, I really didn't like the feel of the V-rods I tried. Warrior is certainly slower, but I like the way it fits and I really like the handling. What the hell.Super Kaz said:
Oil information
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Sam,Sam V said:
Sorry to hear that but glad you're at least riding and doing it on bike you like. I was torn between the two and if finances had been different I probably would have taken the same route you did. I had just the opposite experience, I don't fit the Warrior as well as I do the V-Rod but the Warrior is a damn nice ride regardless.
Anyway, I hope you pop in on occasion, your insight is valued. Enjoy the riding even though it's not a 'Rod
Mark
To Sam-V Lubedude (& to any one else who wants to answer):
1. The lube info you are sharing is great stuff. I really appreciate it.
2. Are some oils less susceptable to problems from water condensation than others?
3. Is it possible & desireable to break up or reduce existing oil deposits in an engine by switching to a different oil like a synthetic or a lighter viscosity?
4. Four people at my shop have identical 4.7 liter V8 engines in Dodge Dakota or Durango vehicals & are using standard (non-synthetic) oils. All of them have a slimey yellow/white sludge coating the inside of the non-metallic oil fill tube & the underside of the cap & the bottom of the removable baffle inside that tube. The greater the miles the heavy the sludge. The worst one looks like the baffle was dipped in a jar of mayonaise. I assume this sludge is a water/oil mix (caused by foaming?). Chrysler says the modified cap & baffle were designed to reduce a condensation problem. Any suggestions on how to further reduce this problem? Will changing to a lower viscosity or to synthetic oils help? Or should I just use this problem as an excuse to buy a Hemi when they become available in a Dakota :^)
1. The lube info you are sharing is great stuff. I really appreciate it.
2. Are some oils less susceptable to problems from water condensation than others?
3. Is it possible & desireable to break up or reduce existing oil deposits in an engine by switching to a different oil like a synthetic or a lighter viscosity?
4. Four people at my shop have identical 4.7 liter V8 engines in Dodge Dakota or Durango vehicals & are using standard (non-synthetic) oils. All of them have a slimey yellow/white sludge coating the inside of the non-metallic oil fill tube & the underside of the cap & the bottom of the removable baffle inside that tube. The greater the miles the heavy the sludge. The worst one looks like the baffle was dipped in a jar of mayonaise. I assume this sludge is a water/oil mix (caused by foaming?). Chrysler says the modified cap & baffle were designed to reduce a condensation problem. Any suggestions on how to further reduce this problem? Will changing to a lower viscosity or to synthetic oils help? Or should I just use this problem as an excuse to buy a Hemi when they become available in a Dakota :^)
Allen,Allen Lake said:
It sounds like dodge is admitting to inherent problems with condensation in certain engines. I'm not sure that changing to more highly formulated or synthetics will do a lot to cure the type of problem you are referring to. Additives can also aggravate this problem, so stay away from so called "mousemilks" since they can emulsify water even further. Best way to deal with this is to insure that the engines get hot enough regularly to boil off the water and fuel condensate. Also, change oil a lot more often in these applications, since often the additives congeal with the water to form the slime you refer to.
Thanks very much Sam V/Lubedude. Your answers are so straight & easily understood. I've never exceeded 3000 miles between oil changes, change the filter every time, stayed with the same (petroleum) oil, & tavel far enough to work to reach full temperature for a while. I switched to Mobil 1 at the recommended 5w-30 viscosity just today, & cleaned out all the white stuff in the fill tube & baffle. I am a big proponent of never turning the engine off until it has at least reached full temperature, especially living here in New Hampshire, so running short trips is not the problem. Thanks for your help. I'll advise if I experience anything different with the synthetic oil.
After reading all this oil information I still do know if I were to use Mobil 1 in my HD's(Softail and Vrod) as I do in my autos, which Mobil 1 to use. There is about 8 different variations(plus a variety of different vicosities) including at least 2 which are claimed to be for bikes. One is for 4 cycle bikes, and another for V twins. I am aware that HD's are V twins but they are also 4 cycles. Anyone have suggestion on which to use and viscosities for central Calif climate and also for transmissions, verses primary chain, verses engine crankcase. HD suggests only one for all three applications.
I got some of my info here on the Mobil website
http://www.mobil1.com/motorcycle/index.jsp
Also I suspect that you could change your oil more often and not really get a benefit at all from changing the filter each time. Anyone have any thoughts on this. Paying HD 15 bucks for their chromed filter seems somewhat a waste of money if there is not benefit to changing each time you change oil if you are changing on say a 3000 mile schedule.
Thank you
Roger
Silicon Valley Ca
I got some of my info here on the Mobil website
http://www.mobil1.com/motorcycle/index.jsp
Also I suspect that you could change your oil more often and not really get a benefit at all from changing the filter each time. Anyone have any thoughts on this. Paying HD 15 bucks for their chromed filter seems somewhat a waste of money if there is not benefit to changing each time you change oil if you are changing on say a 3000 mile schedule.
Thank you
Roger
Silicon Valley Ca
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13,094 Posts
Roger,
Actually you are better off changing the filter more often than changing the oil. The filters can easily clog and when they do they either collapse and restrict oil flow or go into a bypass mode where no filtering takes place. You could look into the K&N or Amsoil chrome filters, they are about half the price of the HD filter and are certainly as good.
If you're not going to use HD Syn3 then stick with the Mobil 1 20W50 V-Twin oil. It's not the oils ability to protect the motor as much as the car additives messing with the wet clutch in the V-Rod. You could also use Amsoil, Royal Purple or Spectro synthetics. They have some good motorcycle specific oils.
Actually you are better off changing the filter more often than changing the oil. The filters can easily clog and when they do they either collapse and restrict oil flow or go into a bypass mode where no filtering takes place. You could look into the K&N or Amsoil chrome filters, they are about half the price of the HD filter and are certainly as good.
If you're not going to use HD Syn3 then stick with the Mobil 1 20W50 V-Twin oil. It's not the oils ability to protect the motor as much as the car additives messing with the wet clutch in the V-Rod. You could also use Amsoil, Royal Purple or Spectro synthetics. They have some good motorcycle specific oils.
MJW: Good point on wet clutch..... Daniii: I have always found Mobil 1 in autos to be a good oil(same caliber as Redline or Amsoil and easier to find) and also not always certain of HD's motives and quality when purchasing some of their products(they are noted for telling everyone for years that synthetics were not approved--now they just say that they have not been able to test them all so cannot approve any but their own--). Pricing on Mobil 1 is about 8 bucks a quart for cycles, about the same as HD.
Roger
Silicon Valley Ca
Roger
Silicon Valley Ca
Joined
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13,343 Posts
I don't disagree with you Roger, but there are several Mobil 1 options, and if you get the wrong one... I am committed to the factory oil in any case, since I have a pre-paid maintenance agreement, and they change the oil (and charge extra for HD Syn, and don't deduct the cost of the standard oil they didn't put in). But at least I know the warranty requirements are being met. I'd hate to have something fail that might have been caused by lubrication.
Good point on the prepaid and the warranty(however illegal it may be, but who needs the hassle?). Could you explain further on HD charging additional for their Syn product but not deducting for regular oil. Are you suggesting that they are so shameless to charge you an extra 8 plus bucks per quart and give you NO credit for their regular overpriced( 4 plus bucks per quart, which is about what automobile Mobil 1 Syn sells for) stuff?
Roger
Silicon Valley, Ca
Roger
Silicon Valley, Ca
Joined
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13,343 Posts
Roger - yes they are that shameless. (Max will tell you he is not surprised at all with the Allen dealer - his experience with them has been less than positive, mine has been ok, and besides, I'm sort of committed.) Next time, however, I think its time to whine.
One thing that definitely sets Amsoil apart from most other brands of motor oil is their distribution model. Amsoil is distributed through "independent dealers" - rather than through motorcycle dealers and/or auto parts stores or mass merchandisers.mjw930 said:
With so many "independent dealers" out there, I find that are few places on the Internet to which Amsoil marketing blurb has not percolated.
lube
To Sam from Orange City from Fafin from Deltona.
The owner's manual on page 80 recommends 10W40 oil as excellent. The 20W50 as good. Harley dealers tell me that at the 1k mi inspection they changed my oil to 20W50 without my permission. Im coming up for my 5K inspection and was planning to change oil to synthetic. After reading your thread now Im not sure what to put in there now. Your reply will be sincerely appreciated--Fafin
To Sam from Orange City from Fafin from Deltona.
The owner's manual on page 80 recommends 10W40 oil as excellent. The 20W50 as good. Harley dealers tell me that at the 1k mi inspection they changed my oil to 20W50 without my permission. Im coming up for my 5K inspection and was planning to change oil to synthetic. After reading your thread now Im not sure what to put in there now. Your reply will be sincerely appreciated--Fafin
Changed oil in my 03 Heritage at 5k miles. Used regular HD 20/50 in engine, and proper oil in primary chain case. However used HD Syn in transmission. Transmission which had always been clunky and somewhat reluctant to shift at times(has gotten somewhat better with age) now shifts smoothly like the classic hot knife thru butter. Found the same when I replaced regular 90 wt in my Doug Nash 5sp equipped 71 Corvette many years ago(standard oil in this transmission was very stiff to shift). Redline made this transmission shift much better and easier and now 24 years later(yes 24 years on this Doug Nash) and having had several years of drag racing with it, still functions perfectly with zero repairs(however is leaking somewhat, somewhere now).
Just did 1000 mile service on Vrod. Used Syn in it also. Was pleasantly surprised that one drain plug for everything so did not have to spend an hour searching for my drain plugs as with my Heritage. Also with proper filter tool(the one that goes on the end of a 3/8 in inch extension) did not have to loosen radiator mount as suggested in service manual to gain easy access to filter.
Roger
Silicon Valley, Ca
Just did 1000 mile service on Vrod. Used Syn in it also. Was pleasantly surprised that one drain plug for everything so did not have to spend an hour searching for my drain plugs as with my Heritage. Also with proper filter tool(the one that goes on the end of a 3/8 in inch extension) did not have to loosen radiator mount as suggested in service manual to gain easy access to filter.
Roger
Silicon Valley, Ca
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