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"Grab your ankles"
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Discussion Starter #22
Correct. My guess is the IAT (intake air temperature) sensor is not connected.
Well, the IAT sensor was connected, so I guess I'll be taking this bike to the crusher. Oh well...
 

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"Grab your ankles"
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Discussion Starter #24
I'd look at the DTCs first (link to directions is in Post #18) and post what you see.


I was just joking around. The o-rings will be in tomorrow or Saturday. I'm going put a new one on the tube, put everything back together, change the oil, wash the bike (since there is oil EVERYWHERE), then check to see if it is still throwing a CEL. If it does, I'll go through the steps and post the results here. :cheers:
 

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"Grab your ankles"
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Discussion Starter #25
UPDATE: So, I installed a new o-ring on the brass, breather tube and took some advice I read on here. I got some high-temp silicone (600 F) and put a bead down the entire way around the tube where it seats into the head. I allowed it to dry over 24 hours, reinstalled the airbox bottom, filter and top (no cover so I didn't have to tear all that off again). I took it for a short 5-10 minute ride, I come back to the house and...oil leak!!! I take the airbox and all of that off again and I'm looking everywhere. I'm thinking, "There is no way this thing is leaking!". It was coming out from in between the cylinders. I get my flashlight and I start rooting around in between there. Come to find out, there are plenty of little nooks and crannies for oil to settle in that area (I even washed the bike, but I didn't get in there too well because of all the electrical wires). I grab a long screwdriver and wrap it in paper towels, then start gently, stuffing them down in the pockets filled with oil. I had to pull them out from the other side of the bike with needle nose pliers since it's such tight quarters. I put the airbox back on and take it for another spin. There is no oil leak and it pulls like a freight train with the Stage 1. Whew...relief. BTW, I even checked my codes. They are old codes that I have since rectified. The IAT sensor and TP sensor codes were in the list, but I couldn't get them to clear. Oh well. No harm. The CEL isn't on and there are no oil leaks either.
 

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I should have mentioned the o ring is metric and why I suggested a hydraulic shop rather then a hardware store that likely only carries standard sizes, as RustyG mentioned. The OEM, I found is a tad on the loose side. It does seal and hold the tube, but just barely. The replacement I used is a bit tighter. Lube it up prior to slipping it into the head in either case.
Ron
Ron, would you happen to have the dimensions of the Viton o-ring that you used for the front breather tube? You recommended a slightly thicker cross section than the OEM one for better sealing.

I need to replace mine. Today, I went to a couple of hydraulic shops but they don't have any Viton o-rings close to the size I need.

It seems the OEM o-ring dimensions are close enough to: 7/16" inner diameter, 10/16" outer diameter and 3/32" thickness.

I found one Viton o-ring online with the dimensions: 7/16" inner diameter, 11/16" outer diameter and 4/32" thickness. Would this work?

I swear I have had it with this bike and the crappy H-D design in general!!! Last weekend, I finally managed to replace my cooling fan assembly after going through much aggravation. Now, I am trying to figure out what size o-ring I should get to fix a crappy breather tube design!

My KTM Super Duke feels like an engineering marvel compared to the H-D crap!!!
 

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Shelby Stanga Rocks
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It seems the HD o-ring is only a buck. Might spend more time hunting and searching then its worth. just my 2 cents.
 

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Ron, would you happen to have the dimensions of the Viton o-ring that you used for the front breather tube? You recommended a slightly thicker cross section than the OEM one for better sealing.

I need to replace mine. Today, I went to a couple of hydraulic shops but they don't have any Viton o-rings close to the size I need.

It seems the OEM o-ring dimensions are close enough to: 7/16" inner diameter, 10/16" outer diameter and 3/32" thickness.

I found one Viton o-ring online with the dimensions: 7/16" inner diameter, 11/16" outer diameter and 4/32" thickness. Would this work?

I swear I have had it with this bike and the crappy H-D design in general!!! Last weekend, I finally managed to replace my cooling fan assembly after going through much aggravation. Now, I am trying to figure out what size o-ring I should get to fix a crappy breather tube design!

My KTM Super Duke feels like an engineering marvel compared to the H-D crap!!!
Off hand don't have the dimensions but it's metric, not inch size. A bit snugger then stock o-ring and needs a touch of grease to slide into the hole in the head. Brown in color but viton comes in many colors. In a pinch Buna will work since the head on a v rod doesn't get really hot anyway. Viton just handles heat better.
Ron
 

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Along with the new o-ring I would replace the "pressure" clamp that holds the bullet tube into the bottom of the air box. I used a hose clamp so once I pushed the air box on to the tube I then tightened the bottom of the airbox down and then tightened the hose clamp. The pressure of the clamp on the tube holds it in place.
 

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Off hand don't have the dimensions but it's metric, not inch size. A bit snugger then stock o-ring and needs a touch of grease to slide into the hole in the head. Brown in color but viton comes in many colors. In a pinch Buna will work since the head on a v rod doesn't get really hot anyway. Viton just handles heat better.
Ron
Thanks, Ron. I found some metric Viton o-rings on Ebay and ordered a couple of different dimensions. I will report back my findings.
 

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Along with the new o-ring I would replace the "pressure" clamp that holds the bullet tube into the bottom of the air box. I used a hose clamp so once I pushed the air box on to the tube I then tightened the bottom of the airbox down and then tightened the hose clamp. The pressure of the clamp on the tube holds it in place.
The newer V-Rods do not use a clamp to keep the hose in place. It depends on pressure from the air box bottom cover.
 

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The newer V-Rods do not use a clamp to keep the hose in place. It depends on pressure from the air box bottom cover.
Correct. I think a lot of issues is how it's installed. Bullet with O-ring must go in the head first, then the airbox over it. Both should be a snug fit even with a tad of lube for the slip fits.
Ron
 

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Ron,
Agreed. If the bullet, with O-ring, does not snap into place on the cam cover then the O-ring needs replacing. I have never had any problems with the HD supplied O-ring.
 

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This post is in error. Please see post #42 for the correct information
 

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EDIT—-THIS INFO IS INCORRECT

Explained in later posting.


Ok, I went to the dealer and bought a couple. Not sure of the material, if it’s Buna-N or Viton. But I have measured them and have a definite size designation. They’re metric and are called out as 2 X 9.5. So, if you have a source of Viton o-rings, just ask for a 2 X 9.5 and you’ll be good.

If you want the actual measured size in inches, it’s .374 ID, .531 OD, and .078 cross section.

Hope this helps.
 

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Those o-ring dimensions sure seem different from what I used! The metric Viton o-ring ordered from Ebay that best matched the OEM o-ring had these dimensions: 11 mm inner diameter, 16 mm outer diameter, 2.5 mm cross section thickness
 

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Those o-ring dimensions sure seem different from what I used! The metric Viton o-ring ordered from Ebay that best matched the OEM o-ring had these dimensions: 11 mm inner diameter, 16 mm outer diameter, 2.5 mm cross section thickness
@uzun. You are correct. My info above was wrong. I went with the P/N provided by RustyG, which agreed with the P/N provided by the local HD service dept.

When I went to install the o-ring today, I found out that the 11392K is much too small. The smaller ring in the attached photo is the 11392K. You can read the package where it says O-ring, breather.
 

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