Harley Davidson V-Rod Forum banner

1 - 20 of 24 Posts

·
Ponygirl
Joined
·
38 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I'm using approx 1 qt every 1500 miles or so for local riding and +1qt per 1000 for tours. This seems excessively high relative to me and other riders. I ride an '05 VRSCA and burn HD 20/50 syn3. "There are no leaks and its not blowing out my pipes. Any body else using this much oil?????
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
1,084 Posts
I rarely add oil between changes. At 27Kmi it's still pretty tight. There are variations on this as bikes go through different break-in styles, sit longer between rides, etc.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
4,958 Posts
ponygirl said:
I'm using approx 1 qt every 1500 miles or so for local riding and +1qt per 1000 for tours. This seems excessively high relative to me and other riders. I ride an '05 VRSCA and burn HD 20/50 syn3. "There are no leaks and its not blowing out my pipes. Any body else using this much oil?????




Change to any " pretty good oil", preferably full synthetic. Add 5 juggs at each oil/ filter change. You probably will not have to add "oil" again.
 

·
Ponygirl
Joined
·
38 Posts
Discussion Starter · #6 · (Edited)
!!!
 

·
Go IRISH!
Joined
·
727 Posts
Mobile V-Twin or Amsoil seem to be the favorite flavors. o2man98 will hook you up with Amsoil - PM him.
 

·
Ponygirl
Joined
·
38 Posts
Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Sincerely appreciate all the feedback . . . who makes "amsoil", is it a synthetic, and where can I get it? And please define or spec a "pretty good oil" and should I, or must I run syn in my bike - what are the ramifications for not running syn? I'd like to get this right - afterall, I'm "just a girl" (as someone ELSE once said) Ha!
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
4,958 Posts
ponygirl said:
Sincerely appreciate all the feedback . . . who makes "amsoil" and where can I get it? and please define (spec) "pretty good oil" . . . (so I can get this right!) Afterall, "I'm just a girl"!!!! (As someone ELSE once said) Ha!

Amsoil, Mobil, Castrol all make "Pretty good Oil"
A list member gives a deal on Amsoil
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
1,128 Posts
ponygirl said:
I'm using approx 1 qt every 1500 miles or so for local riding and +1qt per 1000 for tours. This seems excessively high relative to me and other riders. I ride an '05 VRSCA and burn HD 20/50 syn3. "There are no leaks and its not blowing out my pipes. Any body else using this much oil?????
i am useing that much oil, but i also bored my motor out to a 1350, however it should not being useing that much oil. I few others on here say that the syn 3 is not the best oil to use....on your next oild change maybe try going back to a more conventinal oil.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
339 Posts
Ponygirl, there are MANY topic about oil consumption. Mine is doing the same thing and so are many other out there.

Seems a lot of members on the forum say switch to Amsoil or Mobil V-Twin oil and it stops using oil or at least drop dramatically.

Then other members say that the Harley brand synthetic oil runs goes right thru the engine. They say to use regular Harley oil and not Harley synthetic.

I haven't tried switching oil yet, but I will try Amsoil on next oil change.
 

·
Dilligaf
Joined
·
5,393 Posts
ponygirl said:
I'm using approx 1 qt every 1500 miles or so for local riding and +1qt per 1000 for tours. This seems excessively high relative to me and other riders. I ride an '05 VRSCA and burn HD 20/50 syn3. "There are no leaks and its not blowing out my pipes. Any body else using this much oil?????
I would put dino oil back in it and run it harder and do a lot of engine breaking for a little while to make sure the rings are seated, then go back to the synthetic. JMO
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
177 Posts
04 VRSCA here that uses .5 quart every 1000 miles. not happy about this at all. the dealers up here in canada see it as no big deal at all.

maybe trying AmsOil very soon~
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
7,727 Posts
ponygirl said:
Sincerely appreciate all the feedback . . . who makes "amsoil", is it a synthetic, and where can I get it? And please define or spec a "pretty good oil" and should I, or must I run syn in my bike - what are the ramifications for not running syn? I'd like to get this right - afterall, I'm "just a girl" (as someone ELSE once said) Ha!
AMSOIL is a synthetic motor oil made by AMSOIL, Inc in Superior, WI. I just happen to be an AMSOIL Direct Jobber and offer the products to forum members at dealer cost as my service to the forum. Members pay the same as I would shipped to their location. If you ever want to purchase, send me a PM or email and I will get you a price quote. Here is the oil that would be used in the V-Rod. http://www.modernoils.com/MCV_20W50.html

Let me know if you have any other questions.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,219 Posts
After 5k mine is still using a quart every 500 miles, it slowed toward the end of summer but Im going to give a couple more thousand before I worry about it...
 

·
"A" is the only way
Joined
·
3,349 Posts
Frankjake said:
Ponygirl, there are MANY topic about oil consumption. Mine is doing the same thing and so are many other out there.

Seems a lot of members on the forum say switch to Amsoil or Mobil V-Twin oil and it stops using oil or at least drop dramatically.

Then other members say that the Harley brand synthetic oil runs goes right thru the engine. They say to use regular Harley oil and not Harley synthetic.

I haven't tried switching oil yet, but I will try Amsoil on next oil change.

Me and max weren't filling you full of shit when you asked the first time in the engine oil spray on filter thread ponygirl

I was running the syn 3 in mine and it never used a drop, but I think the guy that owned it before me drove it like it was stolen from day 1, but like everyone has said that othes have switched to mobile one or amsoil and they don't use a drop anymore.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
32 Posts
I wouldn't switch to synthetic oil until you were damn sure the rings are seated. Doing so will prevent them from fully seating, because off its superior lubricating action and heat resistance.

This is true for bikes , cars, almost anything running on fuel.

After 500 miles I been riding it like I stole it. The more I ride it hard, the more power the bike gets. Once you feel the rings are completely seated, then I would go to synthetic, not a moment sooner.

Afterall, thier silicon based and its next to impossible to completely break down silicon.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,107 Posts
I switched to Mobile 1 V-Twin and my oil consumption has almost completely stopped.
 

·
impede none & evade
Joined
·
409 Posts
This V-Rod engine isn’t like most, if any. It is a material sanctuary of savant talent. It is what the dysfunctional, darkened insane and psychopaths have done to keep them from excitement of petty crimes and even mass murders. Its partly why Islamic terrorists rampage, they can’t compete with western engineering. That engine is the physical evidence of IQ spikes most of us would never know existed. That this engine took a long 6 years for Porsche to develop is because HD somehow got in the way. It is an orchestra of many fanatics somehow bribed to cooperate. It is why UFOs come here if they do.

Break the engine in easy first 500 miles. Then like everyone else has said, run it like you stole it for 10K..... hard. This engine is bred in the “old schools” of those who invented internal combustion engines around 1880…the Germans, namely August Otto. We feel bad we take Prozac, they feel bad… they build a better engine for therapy. They ride to work at 160mph everyday anyway. Design or collaborate in a mechanical failure? They would rather go to hell.

It boils down to philosophy. Way back when, Mercedes refused to have an engine burn any oil at all. Their engines were vertical so no elliptical wear on the cylinders occurred by gravity and being so tightly ringed. BMW said, let’s loosen the rings a bit and burn a bit of oil, lean the engine over and gain a lot of HP and then taught Arnold to say, “I’ll be back”. The stogy bankers drove the Mercedes and the arrogant impetuous youth bought the BMWs. But all that has changed and guess why? The Autobahn pull-over law which brought us the momentary high-beam flasher on the turn signal stalk. It is illegal to hold anyone up in their left lanes.

While they were soothing themselves at 150+ mph with the deliberate farfegnugens of trans whine, timpani’d patented suspensions, and ministering sedatives of engine drones, we were stomping our left foot on the gaudy Borg Warner high-beam button under the floor mat wondering if our Gabriel Hijackers had blown out yet. If you combined the engineering slop of an average pre 80’s American car, you could smuggle an entire isle of War-Mart into East Berlin. Not to be totally outclassed however, our trucks and locomotives rule the world, especially following an M1A2 Abrams. We grew up after Grease and Jane Fonda got wrinkles. But while they pursued engineering to achieve smoothness and control we used bulk metal mass, huge coil springs and Cadillac overstuffed upholstery with the landau look, pleather tops and chrome buckles over the trunk. But that’s what made the day getting out of your car at the golf course in the 60’s. Some things don’t change. Today, we’ve just exchanged that for the Hummer with tall chrome wheels.

Changing oil is crucial during this 10K while breaking it in. Every 3K getting rid of the scour. The scour hurts bearings and gears while some say is good for cylinder walls. Put a max power cobalt magnet on the oil filter. Let the cylinder walls take more time the old fashioned clean way to seat up and de-hatch. Then put in the Amsoil after 10K-12K.

I burn no oil and I have 80,000 on my 03. And with no lash adjustments performed yet either. Many say I'm being too conservative changing the oil every 3K. Well, it's running great for a few reasons so shut the heck up.

Yes, our engines are water cooled and might be a little cooler on the oil, BUT our sumps serve 3 duties: engine, clutch and tranny. There's fuel/blow by dilution and clutch paste to consider as well. I've seen these byproducts replace burnt off oil in other vehicles. You'd think your not losing any oil but it is only being replaced by blow-by. The smell is the first tell tail, then it gets watery or "loose".

Color. It only takes 3% or less to discolor oil by harmless soft black carbons. A day after you change a diesel engine’s oil it is black, yet still fresh and effective. Just a visual is not reliable unless to depict a change in characteristics of known visual benchmarks. Change out oil and clean the air filter regularly. This regimen is almost more important than today’s grade and make of the oils.

The pleats in a oil filter let 10 microns particles right through. To get a feel the human hair is about 40. 60% of engine wear is due to particulates below this size. The other is dry start-ups and neglected lubrication by extended sump/change intervals. Oil doesn’t “wear out”. Detergents, shear and suspension additives deplete but the crude is almost eternal. But today’s engines cannot thrive on the crude molecule alone. We milk performance at the expense of heat and shear. Galling takes over after the additives deplete and the crude while intact can only observe the shear. Crude and all lubes are like silly putty. You pull hard enough they rip and cavitate. Synthetic will as well but just less at higher shear. We need additives like Maurice Pudzianowski still needs a back brace and gloves. There’s nothing wrong with them. There’s no shame in using them. If “old schoolers” want to really be old school, then let them run vintage pure “old school” straight weight oils in their new hogs. They’d be rebuilding them every 10K. Now that would be authentic “old school” tribology.

The perfect filter is a bypass with cellulose elements to absorb and retain moisture while fine enough to grab the abrasive small stuff. We don’t usually put these on motorcycles. I provided them to be installed on some aircraft. A friend of mine, Len Cochran, at JPL of So. Cal. would cycle rocket motor lubricants for over 24 hours and thousands of passes trying to strain out these small destructive particles that could cause catastrophic failures. They were using gauged brass filters in that day. When they hooked up rolled and bound bypass cellulous filters it only took a few minutes and that to gain even greater purity. So, you think particles only arrive in your oil the day before you are supposed to change it?

The standard full flow pleated filters open their sprung pressure shunts wide and don’t filter at all under higher RPMs. They are only good for trapping pieces of gaskets and larger debris really too big to cause wear yet might clog galleys. Think of a bowling ball between your hands VS sand like the tolerance of bearings and rings. Which will remove your skin? Really, the bowling ball couldn’t even get between your hands anyway and would fall to the sump and maybe stick to the pickup screen. Like a rhinoceros could be a contamination threat?

Also, there was a time when engineers at API had not established journal etching from moisture in the crankcase. They knew blow-by nitric and sulfuric were there to join up with H2O and make acid but nothing empirical to present. That has changed too. The best way to get water in the crank oil is to run your bike to the store and back. Heating it up just enough to sweat up the inside like a muffler on a cold day, yet not running it long enough to vaporize water out to atmosphere. It can happen in any season. If you are going to run an engine you care about, run it long enough to get all vapor out of the sump….run it good and hot for more than 15 minutes.

If that means take the long way to get there then now you have an excuse. If the gals just sport over to the mall and back, they are going to eat up the insides no matter how gentle they are with the bike. If we don’t heat up the engine for long enough, we are making a distillery inside no matter if you use synthetics, Naphthenic, paraffinic or any concoction of additives/vitamins in between you can buy today. It’s like trying to take vitamins alone to condition yourself instead of regular exercise. Bottom line, keep the engine clean and hot.
 

·
"A" is the only way
Joined
·
3,349 Posts
Shavvo said:
This V-Rod engine isn’t like most, if any. It is a material sanctuary of savant talent. It is what the dysfunctional, darkened insane and ....................between you can buy today. It’s like trying to take vitamins alone to condition yourself instead of regular exercise. Bottom line, keep the engine clean and hot.

Does dmx have a class on typing long replies now??? I think this has to be a record length reply. :stilpoke:
 
1 - 20 of 24 Posts
Top