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Does the clutch lever get harder to press as the engine warms up? Does it disengage the clutch sooner? How far does the clutch lever need to be squeezed before it disengages?

I wonder if your hydraulic line is collapsed internally preventing the pressure from fully releasing.
 

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Does the clutch lever get harder to press as the engine warms up? Does it disengage the clutch sooner? How far does the clutch lever need to be squeezed before it disengages?

I wonder if your hydraulic line is collapsed internally preventing the pressure from fully releasing.
Are you asking a general question or responding to a previous post? If responding to a previous post, which one?

The last poster with a problem was post #3 from "brentsimnitt" back in February, 2009. All the other posts after this one (other than yours and this one) was either a discussion of the proper engine oil for a wet clutch or in response to brentsimnitt's problem.
 

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This is fascinating. I have an occasional clutch slip from Second Gear into neutral... been puzzling me for 2 years and happens so rarely I just ignore it.
 

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I've just discovered why my clutch goes soft and needs an occasional re-bleed!~
I found the actuator piston seal seeping fluid into the engine/clutch cavity! The boot was keeping the fluid mostly inside until the pressure swelled the boot enough to push it over the actuator nub, thereby making the clutch feel 'rubbery' and lower to the point that it wouldn't release. I drained the escaped fluid from the cavity within the boot and piston, turned the actuator (this is with it in your hands, but still connected) up and gently sqeezed the piston down, back into the body. Abundant air bubbles came out and continued to until all the air escaped past the defective piston seal. Now I realize that even though I am running the best oil, it is now contaminated with a bit of DOT-5 brake fluid. Uh ohh:hitfan:
 

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if you dont ride your clutch and drag your brake you have no low speed control...

thanks
Say what?
I know this is an old post.... but Vanis is right, if you ever go to a rider saftey course that is exactly how the teach you to do it... you dont drag the front brake be cause you loose the ability to manuver.
 

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I agree with BayouRuler... 'Say WHAT?!?!'
front brake is not your friend in low speed maneuvers, but to float your brake AND clutch? how slow and low are you talking?:wazzup:
 

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What he was referring the clutch riding is fine in first gear. Not that you would but you can't ride the clutch in any other gear. It creates a horrible sound and wears on the plates. Again I don't know why you would ride with the clutch in any gear but first but it'll tear some stuff up. But if you couldn't ride clutch in first people would be burning tires left and right.
 

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i have a 2006 night rod and when iam in neutral and idling with the clutch lever out it makes a whining noise like the throw-out bearing is bad.but when i pull the clutch lever in it stops could it be my throw-out bearing needs work or what?
 

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i have a 2006 night rod and when iam in neutral and idling with the clutch lever out it makes a whining noise like the throw-out bearing is bad.but when i pull the clutch lever in it stops could it be my throw-out bearing needs work or what?
Sound is from your gear drive primary. Clutch in, the load is less because it doesn't drag the trans along. That tiny rod knock sound is from the same reason with clutch in and out.
Ron
 

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Either of the HD oils will work, though once break-in is achieved, after 10k miles, use of 100% synthetic is preferred. Don't know where you live but Mobil 1 V-Twin 20-50 and Valvoline V-Twin 20-50 synthetics can be found at most Walmart, Auto Zone and Advance Auto parts distributors. Amsoil is also much thought of here though not as common at most local or more convenient distributors. Some aftermarket custom shops will have it or you can order from 02oilman here.
 

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I've had good performance with Royal Purple Max Cycle 20W50, but will admit that this is a boutique oil that is horribly over-priced compared to similar performance oils, such as Amsoil or Mobil, Castrol, Valvoline, Pennsoil, QuakerState, Fina, etc., synthetics. Bottom line, pick an oil (I like synthetic) and change it often. If you can, have your oil sampled and lab tested for performance.:deal:
 

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When new with HD stock oil, my AW shifted with a clunk and was often difficult to shift from neutral to first.

Tried Amsoil and immediately thereafter my tranny was smooth as silk. It's the only oil I'll put in my bike.

(And whatever HD tech said to never ride the friction zone in this wet clutch bike, as reported in earlier post, is a fool.)
 

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rotella t has me shifting smooth at half the price.
 
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