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Discussion Starter #1
Here is a great write up from Amsoil (maybe even sticky worthy) that describes the operation of your clutch along with the roll the the engine oil has. It does an excellent job of describing why I have always recommended a good motorcycle oil with a JASO MA2 rating over an automotive oil without the frictional rating.

Sure, some people will be able to state they have had no problems with auto oil but that is not always the case. This is especially important in application that seem to be prone to slippage like our beloved V-Rod's.

http://www.modernoils.com/media/pdf_files/TSB_wetclutch_operation.pdf

Ken
 

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slipping clut

Help dude. I have an 03 v-rod that ran perfect until i used mobile 1 vtwin for motorcycles. Immediately the clutch slipped horribly. I flushed it out and went to screaming eagle. It slowed the slip, but when i get on it to change lanes and accelerate the rpms walk away, i lose power, and slow way down. It feels likje a slipping clutch.
I upgraded to a Barnett V-rod model clutch and thought that would fix it. The clutch does the exact same thing and the hotter it gets outside the worse it slips. I replaced the clutch--what the hell else could it be. I have taken it to three different harley shops and they say its fine because it works good until the bike warms up. I am way frustrated...what the hell else could it be? Its getting ridiculous and dangerous and no one has an answer. Help!!!
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Help dude. I have an 03 v-rod that ran perfect until i used mobile 1 vtwin for motorcycles. Immediately the clutch slipped horribly. I flushed it out and went to screaming eagle. It slowed the slip, but when i get on it to change lanes and accelerate the rpms walk away, i lose power, and slow way down. It feels likje a slipping clutch.
I upgraded to a Barnett V-rod model clutch and thought that would fix it. The clutch does the exact same thing and the hotter it gets outside the worse it slips. I replaced the clutch--what the hell else could it be. I have taken it to three different harley shops and they say its fine because it works good until the bike warms up. I am way frustrated...what the hell else could it be? Its getting ridiculous and dangerous and no one has an answer. Help!!!

It sounds like you may have air in your clutch line or bad fluid. I would bet that your clutch fluid is very dark in color greenish most likely. I would suggest your flush with fresh DOT5 fluid and see if that helps.
 

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"A" is the only way
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It sounds like you may have air in your clutch line or bad fluid. I would bet that your clutch fluid is very dark in color greenish most likely. I would suggest your flush with fresh DOT5 fluid and see if that helps.
I thought it got clear looking, as it's purple when it goes in??? Well maybe not clear, but like a light brown color
 

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Help dude. I have an 03 v-rod that ran perfect until i used mobile 1 vtwin for motorcycles. Immediately the clutch slipped horribly. I flushed it out and went to screaming eagle. It slowed the slip, but when i get on it to change lanes and accelerate the rpms walk away, i lose power, and slow way down. It feels likje a slipping clutch.
I upgraded to a Barnett V-rod model clutch and thought that would fix it. The clutch does the exact same thing and the hotter it gets outside the worse it slips. I replaced the clutch--what the hell else could it be. I have taken it to three different harley shops and they say its fine because it works good until the bike warms up. I am way frustrated...what the hell else could it be? Its getting ridiculous and dangerous and no one has an answer. Help!!!
Did they check to see if the oil is circulating properly in the tranny/clutch housing?
I would also post your question the mechanical and/or racing section.
 

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Mobile H-D Mechanic
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Brentsimnitt,

I'm not saying anything is impossible, but it seems unlikely to me that an engine oil designed for motorcycles would cause clutch slippage. Oil manufacturers know that most motorcycles use wet clutches, so the friction modifiers that go into automotive oils don't go into motorcycle oil. But bear in mind, I don't work for an oil company, and I don't know everything about all the motorcycle oils out there - or even very much, for that matter. Then again, it's possible you grabbed a motor oil, albeit for V-Twins, but still intended for dry clutches. If you really think it was the oil that produced your clutch slippage, I'm afraid I've got some bad news, because though I'm not sure what you mean when you said you flushed the oil, but unless you tear your engine all the way down and clean everything, oil is going to remain in your engine, period. However, I'm not sure how much of the friction modifiers it would take to affect a wet clutch.

You said you got a new clutch, and the problem persisted? Was this before or after you changed your oil? If it was before, it's possible that the problem was indeed the oil, and the friction material on the drive plates of the clutch absorbed the modified oil. It would really behoove you to find out as much as possible about the oil you were using when you first noticed the problem.

All I have at home is my '09 manual, and all it sites in troubleshooting for a slipping clutch is insufficient clutch spring tension and worn friction discs. Did you install the new clutch yourself? Did you have to put it together? If so, is it possible you built or installed it incorrectly?
 

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Silly question but using the *friction zone at low speeds on this bike will it burn up the clutch (a HD dealer) told me not too ride the clutch no matter what> that makes no sense because if you dont ride your clutch and drag your brake you have no low speed control...

thanks
 

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Mater Distiller
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Silly question but using the *friction zone at low speeds on this bike will it burn up the clutch (a HD dealer) told me not too ride the clutch no matter what> that makes no sense because if you dont ride your clutch and drag your brake you have no low speed control...

thanks
Say what?
 

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Silly question but using the *friction zone at low speeds on this bike will it burn up the clutch (a HD dealer) told me not too ride the clutch no matter what> that makes no sense because if you dont ride your clutch and drag your brake you have no low speed control...

thanks
Say what?
I concur. "Say What"
 

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Mobile H-D Mechanic
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Silly question but using the *friction zone at low speeds on this bike will it burn up the clutch (a HD dealer) told me not too ride the clutch no matter what> that makes no sense because if you dont ride your clutch and drag your brake you have no low speed control...

thanks
Was this person in sales? Use your friction zone. And your FRONT brake. Your rear brake only provides about 30% of your stopping power.

That said, if you're TRYING to go slow, you obviously don't need a lot of throttle while you're in the friction zone, either.
 

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Well I came from street bikes and they have wet clutches and I assumed these did too, obviously they do. This guys giving me some false info a few times already so i thought id ask other riders cause i was using the friction zone anyway an dragging brake for slow speed stuff, and front brake at high speeds. Also you never know were the info is coming from unless you ride with em eh..... :chainsaw:
 

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Help dude. I have an 03 v-rod that ran perfect until i used mobile 1 vtwin for motorcycles. Immediately the clutch slipped horribly. I flushed it out and went to screaming eagle. It slowed the slip, but when i get on it to change lanes and accelerate the rpms walk away, i lose power, and slow way down. It feels likje a slipping clutch.
I upgraded to a Barnett V-rod model clutch and thought that would fix it. The clutch does the exact same thing and the hotter it gets outside the worse it slips. I replaced the clutch--what the hell else could it be. I have taken it to three different harley shops and they say its fine because it works good until the bike warms up. I am way frustrated...what the hell else could it be? Its getting ridiculous and dangerous and no one has an answer. Help!!!
i have seen this problem a few times. the clutch fluid gets contaminated and flushing the whole system fixes the problem. rarely the problem can be caused by the small bleed back hole in the master cylnder getting plugged. heat builds up pressure in the clutch fluid that can`t escape through the bleed back hole and applies the clutch enough to slip when hot.
 

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Confusion

I read the amsoil article and became confused. It states that there is a separate sump for the transmission and the clutch. The owners manual specifically states that the oil in the sump is used for the engine, transmission, primary, and clutch. What's the right answer? I probably wouldn't have said anything, but the article specifically stated v-rod.
 

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I'm not starting a fight and I know there will be people to agrue this and it will never change my mind but all my bikes including my honda 929, 3 yfz 450's (2 o4 models and a newer 09), kids honda 90, honda pilot, and vrod with 10,008 miles today all have had only castrol GTX with absolutely no tranny or clutch issues in any of them.

I will also state that if I knew better I would just buy the stuff thats double the money but I cannot buy something like that when I have no reason. I'm sure there is valid points and I'm sure it does some good but I have no issues with wet clutches with this oil. Not trying to argue just adding to the topic my personal experiences over the last 15 years with GTX product.
 

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I'm not starting a fight and I know there will be people to agrue this and it will never change my mind but all my bikes including my honda 929, 3 yfz 450's (2 o4 models and a newer 09), kids honda 90, honda pilot, and vrod with 10,008 miles today all have had only castrol GTX with absolutely no tranny or clutch issues in any of them.

I will also state that if I knew better I would just buy the stuff thats double the money but I cannot buy something like that when I have no reason. I'm sure there is valid points and I'm sure it does some good but I have no issues with wet clutches with this oil. Not trying to argue just adding to the topic my personal experiences over the last 15 years with GTX product.
Have a question. Are you using 20W-50 by chance? Also, I called up castrol and there is not a friction rating and they do not recommend it for motorcycles since it only has an automobile rating. Is there a reason your not using the motorcycle castrol, or do you just prefer GTX. I ask because I have a case of 20W-50 GTX that has been sitting on my shelf and I am contemplating using it on a 64 panhead instead of wasting money on the screamin eagle brand. HD will not endorse any other oil if you call them.
 

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They will not tell you you can use it, as it does not have the "rating" for it, so there hands are tied. I run the 20w-50 in the HD and 929, run 10w-40 in the 450's quads (dune ridding where its hot) and 10w-30 in the cars.
 

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My thoughts were really, how advanced was the oil in 64. I just wanted to see if anyone else had done this before doing it myself. I plan on primary and engine sump for it. For my 08 VRSCDXA, I will stick with SE for now just because of how much oil I'm burning (if it becomes a warranty issue). I called HD and they said that a qt/1000 miles is in spec. I only have 5K on the bike right now, and it sucks to have to put a quart of oil in the saddlebags because I'm making a weekend trip.
 
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