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Discussion Starter #1
Sorry for this guys, just go slow!

I think I know the answer, but I wanted to toss this out anyway.

I'm about to pull the trigger on a 03 VRSCA Anniversary.
It has the Screamin' Eagle pips on it.
My question is, did they have to do any mapping (re-map) on the engin for the pipes? And if so, how do I find out what was done.
I
ll be the third owner. Getting from a friend of mine, who bought it from the original owner/co-worker of his.
He said the bike came that way from the dealer, so I could assume it was done.

Thanks for your help!
 

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Yes the dealership shouldve flashed a tune to the computer if they installed it.
 

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MODOHOLIC ANONYMOUS
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take it to your local dealer and have them read the ecm.. shouldn't cost much for them to check.. i'd say you have the download
 

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Pure Hooliganism
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Should backfire and pop on deceleration if it wasn't done. Just curious - are they the 16 gauge or flare type?
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Should backfire and pop on deceleration if it wasn't done. Just curious - are they the 16 gauge or flare type?
They look just like the stock pipes, but it says Screamin' Eagle stamped into the top pipe.

I got a little of the pop and backfire on deceleration yesterday.
But the bike hasn't really been driven at all this year.
In fact in the last two years it's had about 400 miles put on it.
Hell, I put 70 on last night alone!

After a fresh tank of gas and some fuel injector cleaner, didn't happen again all night. Just a bit in the begining.
And didn't do it in on my 50 mile one way commute this morning either.
 

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Buy American!
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Take it to the nearest dynomometer and have them record the Air/Fuel ratios throughout the entire operating range during Wide Open Throttle and in 1000 rpm increments while cruising.

If any of the A/F readings are 14.0 or greater, the map is too lean and should be re-tuned before you burn up the engine.

Make sure that you are happy with the exhaust before you have it dynotuned. Any changes to the exhaust will change the A/F ratio, costing you a return to the tuner. I have the same exhaust and love the way it sounds with the plugs bored out. Mine is tuned with the plugs still intact, so I too must wait to have mine dynotuned again before I can permanently remove them. :broke:
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Take it to the nearest dynomometer and have them record the Air/Fuel ratios throughout the entire operating range during Wide Open Throttle and in 1000 rpm increments while cruising.

If any of the A/F readings are 14.0 or greater, the map is too lean and should be re-tuned before you burn up the engine.

Make sure that you are happy with the exhaust before you have it dynotuned. Any changes to the exhaust will change the A/F ratio, costing you a return to the tuner. I have the same exhaust and love the way it sounds with the plugs bored out. Mine is tuned with the plugs still intact, so I too must wait to have mine dynotuned again before I can permanently remove them. :broke:
Gonna leave the pipes as they are.
Loud enough for me.

Any idea how much on the dyno??
Then I have to go somewhere else to get it adjusted right??
I know nothing of this kind of stuff.

I just went topless with it. I thought I read that by doing so, makes it run a bit leaner as well.
Truth in that???
 

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Buy American!
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Three pulls on the dyno will cost you $40 at the local watering hole on Wednesday night. I can't know what your local dynosaur will charge you there.

The owner of the dyno will probably include the cost of the three pulls with the dyno-tune if you give him the business shortly afterward. Again, the prices may or may not be relavent to your zip code, but it costs $350 down here plus the Race Tuner software.

Personally, I don't think that changing the air filter nor removing the airbox cover is going to make a significant difference to the tuning unless you are already starving the motor for air with a clogged filter or unless you have changed the displacement by bore, stroke or forced air induction. The stock airbox was designed to allow enough cold air flow to adequately supply the stock displacement, normally aspirated motor at more than 9000 rpm. I haven't seen any proof to the contrary. But if you change the velocity stacks...

Note: The next time that I have my bike tuned it will be with the colder sparkplugs that I am currently running (Autolite 4132). I know that colder plugs allow for the ignition timing to be advanced farther than with the stock plugs, but I don't yet have that proof either.
 

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Blowin' Smoke
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MikeFred, go down to your dealer and pay him 1/2 hour to hook a scanalyzer to your bike and determine whether it has been mapped for your pipes. If you are happy with the pipes and with the way the bike runs, there is absolutely no reason to spend upwards of $1000 on a super tuner of some sort and dyno-runs. I'm among the majority who likes the way these bikes run pretty much stock and I have no desire to plug more 'stuff' into it to get that last 1/2 HP at peak RPM. I don't ride at peak RPM.

If you ever do put it across the dyno at a bike night or dealer days or whatever, make sure it is thoroughly warmed up before the run. And, I mean, the cooling fans are running. The ECM limits power and RPMs when the motor is running cold and your dyno operator will try to sell you a dyno-tune for $350 by showing you that 80% run. Now, go out and enjoy that fine machine!
 

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if you do have the map for the screaming eagle slip ons, don't mess with it....i have never ridden a v-rod that ran better AT ALL rpm and throttle settings as one does that has the factory map for the screaming eagle pipes. it's the setup I have and I can run it, without hesitation, from the second i start the bike up.
 

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Buy American!
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if you do have the map for the screaming eagle slip ons, don't mess with it....i have never ridden a v-rod that ran better AT ALL rpm and throttle settings as one does that has the factory map for the screaming eagle pipes. it's the setup I have and I can run it, without hesitation, from the second i start the bike up.
:them:

I agree. I had the SE download on my bike at one time. If it weren't for the ignorant Service Department at the time, I would probably have not purchased their SERT and their dynotune myself. What they were ignoring was my original and frequently repeated diagnosis that my fuel injectors were causing my missfiring and skipping problem. The A/F was nearly perfect with the SE download and it ran no better after the dynotune. It was only after I complained to the factory that they sent a regional service tech to tell them that my fuel injectors were bad. It fixed the problem and has run great since! There is nothing wrong with the SE download for the SE slip-ons.

But the original question was, "did they have to do any mapping (re-map) on the engin for the pipes? And if so, how do I find out what was done."

That will cost him 1 hour service to find out from the H-D dealership. It will be money wasted if the A/F is still incorrect. The solution that I proposed above will answer the real question which is, "I'm worried because my exhaust has been changed. Does my bike need tuning?" The dyno-tune will answer that question and more for much less.
 

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durata membro
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My question is, did they have to do any mapping (re-map) on the engin for the pipes? And if so, how do I find out what was done.
The scanner that dealers use can see what mapp is in the ecm.

Gonna leave the pipes as they are.
Loud enough for me.

Any idea how much on the dyno??
Then I have to go somewhere else to get it adjusted right??
I know nothing of this kind of stuff.

I just went topless with it. I thought I read that by doing so, makes it run a bit leaner as well.
Truth in that???
Dyno time is usually the same rate as the shop's labor rate.Typically they charge 1 flat rate hour for the hookup and then straight time for the tuning.It shouldn't take more than 2 hours max to tune an 03 V-Rod w a SERT.So count on appr 3 hours of total labor time for a qualified tech to tune your engine.
If you continue to run toppless,you should clear the ecm and start w the factory mapp using the SERT.You should run a less restrictive filter than the stock one,if you already don't.
There is really nothing fancy at all about the SE pipes you have other than the name on them.They are almost as restrictive as the no name stock pipes,and are a slight bit louder on heavy acceleration.Under light throttle they are almost as quiet as the stockers.

Once you find a tech that knows how to dyno tune a fuel injected Harley using a SERT,your bike will run as flawless as my 2 V-Rods do.:)
 

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Discussion Starter #13
The scanner that dealers use can see what mapp is in the ecm.



Dyno time is usually the same rate as the shop's labor rate.Typically they charge 1 flat rate hour for the hookup and then straight time for the tuning.It shouldn't take more than 2 hours max to tune an 03 V-Rod w a SERT.So count on appr 3 hours of total labor time for a qualified tech to tune your engine.
If you continue to run toppless,you should clear the ecm and start w the factory mapp using the SERT.You should run a less restrictive filter than the stock one,if you already don't.
There is really nothing fancy at all about the SE pipes you have other than the name on them.They are almost as restrictive as the no name stock pipes,and are a slight bit louder on heavy acceleration.Under light throttle they are almost as quiet as the stockers.

Once you find a tech that knows how to dyno tune a fuel injected Harley using a SERT,your bike will run as flawless as my 2 V-Rods do.:)
I have a high flow filter in there now.
Any place you can reccomend for the SERT/tune???
 

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durata membro
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I have a high flow filter in there now.
Any place you can reccomend for the SERT/tune???
Na man,I live in Florida.
With situations like this,i usually try and talk w the person that will be doing the work,instead of a service writer.I ask questions without acting like a noitall,and I usually get honest advice.If not,I shop around.
 
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