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Great job! Sounds like you will get 6s easily later. How was the track and temp and was it glued? Here only national champs are driven in glued track. Streetman races are mostly in airfield runways. They are very slippery in early mornings and get better during the day.
 

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Discussion Starter #63
Great job! Sounds like you will get 6s easily later. How was the track and temp and was it glued? Here only national champs are driven in glued track. Streetman races are mostly in airfield runways. They are very slippery in early mornings and get better during the day.

Track was prepped, track temp was 62 and DA was 2900ft. It was a little slick at the beginning of the day but also the first time it had been run on since last fall. After it got some rubber on it things really tightened up. My third and final run she dead hooked. 60ft was 1.849 (best the bike has ever done) but theres a bunch left in it. Im strongly considering the 26t pulley now, but we will see. 1st is just too tall in my opinion with my large size (6'4" 340lbs) but im not dead set on that quite yet.
 

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Great thing about the smaller pulley is it allows you to use the same belt and put the axle all the way back in the swingarm slot - that increases wheelbase, raises the rear end and reduces tendency to wheelie ( without a wheelie bar you're trying to avoid ) and you'll get to your proper Rpm across the finish line faster. Downside ? If you really use the bike on the 125 mile commute 7 days a week you're not going to be a happy 26 t highway cruiser - it'll be winding out and making your commute more hectic. Not Fun. Don't know what gear you're in across the line or what the target Rpm is at that point so only you can tell us if a 26 tooth would make your run faster - if it makes sense do it, if not leave it 28 tooth - sounds like you're doing really good right now so why challenge success ? And you've got a good gear for cruising to work - everything is a compromise but there is a sweet spot many don't ever find -
 

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Discussion Starter #65
Great thing about the smaller pulley is it allows you to use the same belt and put the axle all the way back in the swingarm slot - that increases wheelbase, raises the rear end and reduces tendency to wheelie ( without a wheelie bar you're trying to avoid ) and you'll get to your proper Rpm across the finish line faster. Downside ? If you really use the bike on the 125 mile commute 7 days a week you're not going to be a happy 26 t highway cruiser - it'll be winding out and making your commute more hectic. Not Fun. Don't know what gear you're in across the line or what the target Rpm is at that point so only you can tell us if a 26 tooth would make your run faster - if it makes sense do it, if not leave it 28 tooth - sounds like you're doing really good right now so why challenge success ? And you've got a good gear for cruising to work - everything is a compromise but there is a sweet spot many don't ever find -
never thought about the wheelbase from the pulley, that’s a nice benefit! And while it would raise my rpm cruising, that’s fine. 90% of my commute is through the mountains here in va. It’s only 62 miles one way but takes me almost an hour and a half to get there in a car if that tells you anything. 55mph the whole way lol 0 interstate and the only stoplight is the one in front of the plant haha

and right now I’m crossing the line in 3rd at roughly 7100 rpm so the pulley would put me right at the top of the rpm range and that works out well too! I don’t really see a downside to it and it’s not like I can’t swap it back out if I don’t like it 🤷🏻‍♂️
 

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Yea if no interstate mainly mountain roads you might like the 26t pulley it'll give you a few more options on what gear you're in - I like my Triumph 125 Mph top speed gearing more than the V Rod 160 Mph top speed gearing in the mountains because I can use the first three gears where the V Rod is first two gears and first is much higher than the Triumph, V Rod third is too tall except for some straightaways so I'll wind 2nd out rather than shift into third only to have to down shift right away. If you ride the mountains a lot you know what I'm talking about - for you the 26t may be the sweet spot for mountain riding and the drags ! (y) :cool:
 

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What I have wondered why those steel sprockets are so heavy at the first place. Much losses from unnecessary rotational mass. Aluminium would be great but of course not so durable in the long run. So I have turned them lighter with the lathe hoping same time that they will last without cracking. Especially inner diameter could be opened. So far have to knock the wood and they have last. Just an idea if you want to take few thousands from your time...;)
 

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mukle they do sell the HKS aluminum race pulleys with the hard durable coating they seem to wear well ( expensive ) but do not tolerate a belt that's too tight as it can bend them, then they can wobble & crack. Yes the steel pulleys are insanely heavy, but very durable. In the end it's not really a bad thing it also adds to the heavier flywheel effect in the drivetrain, which can dampen power pulses, belt whip & lash and generally just a smoother final drive. Leave it to H-D to make it out of the heaviest material available probably why some of their big touring bikes are close to a 1000 lbs. :oops: :confused:
 

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Yes I have seen those al pulleys and hard anodizing is somehow familiar to me. My home made clutch basket is anodized with >50um thick hard anodized layer. Very durable especially when the material is aerospace grade. In the pulleys when the hard layer is gone and bare aluminium shines it will start wear quicker and aluminium itself is suspect to fatigue compared to steel.

But in the drag racing al pulley could be good choice where all unnecessary especially rotating weight is away from acceleration. It is relatively quick to change for the race weekend.

In the streets you might want smoother drive. Partially this is why I came back with spring compensated clutch basket. I do not like biting clutch at all with heavy springs and two extra discs. Tak's VP lock up was nightmare with rigid billet basket.
 

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In the streets you might want smoother drive. Partially this is why I came back with spring compensated clutch basket. I do not like biting clutch at all with heavy springs and two extra discs. Tak's VP lock up was nightmare with rigid billet basket.
This is very good to know mukle as there is no easy guide on what race equipment is tolerable on the street. Stop & go traffic ( like bike week here in Daytona ) can wear your left hand out with the STOCK clutch setup never mind a high spring pressure racing setup really meant for less than ten 10 second rides a day. Spring compensated is something I decided to retain along with thin ( wining noise reduction) lash gear - basically I'll have a stock clutch hub with slipper clutch installed and at my 130 or so Rwhp level I believe it will hold up fine the way I ride it normally on the street -
 

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Slippery is very nice and elegant for the stock powers and little more. You really do not need shower after every ride and Popeye's left arm.

I meant that I put compensator portion back in my bullet proof billet clutch desing. Before that VP did not work very well with fixed billet bowl and heavy springs +2 discs.
 

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Discussion Starter #72
So it looks like if everything goes right we will be headed back to the dyno next Friday to turn the ole girl up some more, then heading back to the track on Saturday to chase that 6! question for you guys, where would you feel like stopping power wise? what can these stock bottom ends realistically take with proper tuning/detonation prevention? With the 60hp nozzles in (the only set i have) I should have enough to make ~180-185 whp. 180 was my original goal, but am I playing a super dangerous game? I accept that failure can happen at any moment, on any setup, and that nitrous severely reduces engine life, so I don't need that lecture haha but i just want some opinions (based on experience, not my brothers wifes sisters dog groomers dad did blah blah blah) to see what yall think.
 

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Discussion Starter #73
Well unfortunately i WONT be re-dyno-ing the bike this friday, my dyno guy cancelled on me. But thats ok were headed back to the track on saturday to hopefully get this turd into the 6s! gonna leave it where it is for now, and try to optimize what power i already have. I believe with just some riding style changes and being more aggressive on the leave will get me at least into the 7.0s. and if I can squeak out the 6 I may turn her up just a scosche and make it happen 😂
 

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Best of Luck Makinnoyz1 !!! and so yea, keep your clutch lever covered in case something fails - it most likely won't but I've avoided getting run over before by covering the front brake lever, rear brake pedal, ready to downshift in anticipation of a car pulling out in front of me - drag racing with spray ? cover the clutch lever first, cover brakes second all the way down the track if you can, so you can pull the clutch in and prevent rear wheel lock up if the engine slows down and possibly seizes - I thought the slipper clutch would do that function, but no it won't, so the old reliable left hand is your savior. Ride the bike like ya stole it and think safety strategy all the way - my old chief pilot went up on the edge of the rear square section slick back in the 70"s with a dual engined Nitro H-D and crashed into and flew over the guardrail taking out the ABC Wide World of Sports camera crew in the process. Spent almost 6 months in the hospital. He rebuilt the bike, rode it one more time and retired it. I ended up working for him for quite a while not knowing that he was the one I saw eat it on TV as a kid. True story, told here as a heads up that unexpected shit just happens in racing. Prepare to crash, think about safety and don't think you're the first that's immune to failure - so just cover your ass, wear safety equipment and you'll be OK - and that makes the whole experience even more enjoyable because it's a more professional approach to the obvious danger at hand - safety first and the speed naturally comes - Best of Luck !! (y) :cool:
 

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Discussion Starter #75 (Edited)
Well, we came sooo very close to that 6 this weekend! I turned the nitrous kit all the way up right off the rip, and went [email protected] right off the trailer! Was slow to the 60 on that pass (my fault) and was hoping she would get there before the end of the day, but I wheelied bad on the second pass and had to let out ([email protected]) and then the third pass I ran out of nitrous ([email protected]) ending my day :( but man are we close!!!
 

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Dammit that was close! Next time you will fly. I envy you that you can visit track already while we are still melting the snow here 😅
 

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Discussion Starter #77
Dammit that was close! Next time you will fly. I envy you that you can visit track already while we are still melting the snow here 😅
It’s actually a rarity for us to be out on track this early in the year but the weather has cooperated lately. We got 6 inches of snow Friday then it was 70 on Saturday and we were racing lmao it’s almost like god wants to see me do it too lmao gotta get my mother bottle of nitrous purchased and I believe I need to invest in a 26t pulley as well. With my large size, and a very grabby clutch this thing has proven difficult to launch without bogging or wheelie-ing. I believe that if I was to gear the bike down I could leave easier and get the bike to take a set before the nitrous comes on I’d be better off. Right now I’m so concentrated on the clutch that I’m distracted from the rest of what’s going on and I don’t like it. I need to make myself more comfortable on the bike. Right now it’s a mental game. But this is also my first real attempt at track racing, I come from street racing where numbers didn’t mean sh*t, all that mattered was getting to the stripe before the other guy lol
 

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Sounds good and Yes 26t pulley is bound to help especially leaving the line - what gear and Rpm are you in at 101-102 Mph thru the trap ?
 

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Sounds great as long as you don't have to complete another shift just before the line - and you don't want to hit the limiter before it either, sounds like you will get real close unless your rear tire is a bit larger in diameter, all you can do is try it out and see what the result is - what do you have now a 28 tooth ? Do you have the V Rod gearing/speed calculator ? it says 9000 rpm won't get you to 104-106 Mph with a 26 tooth but I think it's a bit conservative so it might work just perfect -
 
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