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Clutch no big deal, use your hand to bleed. Doesn't take much fluid at all.

Brakes! I highly recommend doing the old 2 man bleed on these bikes (clutch you can do your self sitting on the bike opening the slave cylinder bleeder with one hand and squeeze lever with other). I have countless customers using various bleeder devices (pump style, air compressor style, etc) and few have great luck with those on these bikes. The lines are small compared to a car. Takes me 10 minutes max to bleed each end with a kid being the "pump man".
 

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Discussion Starter #42
Unfortunately I don't have anyone who can help me out with the brakes, but yea I guess I could do the clutch myself, and possibly the front brakes too (I have long arms). but im sure my fluid looks awful, i havent changed it in two years ive owned the bike, and im unsure of the previous owner haha
 

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Little update. Got the Fitzgerald basket and barnett clutch installed last night. Haven't tested it running yet, but seems to function as it should rolling the bike in gear. I have a cheap vacuum hand pump bleeder from amazon, will it be sufficient enough to bleed the clutch and brakes? Also, my manual says the bike uses DOT4 fluid for those, but everyone on Facebook groups say to use DOT5. I know they wont mix well, but how do I know which is in my bike currently? and why doesn't autozone carry DOT5?
Pre 2006/7 bikes with Hayes type calipers used DOT5 fluid . When they changed tp Brembo calipers the fluid changed to DOT4 . If you are unsure of your caliper type it is written on the top of the reservoir covers which fluid. Even if you have the later Brembos you can run DOT5 as long as you flush the system through thoroughly with denatured alcohol as the 2 fluids don't play well together. DOT5 is a superior fluid as it has a higher boiling point than DOT4 and doesn't destroy paint like DOT4 as it is silicone based, and doesn't absorb moisture like DOT4. Downside as you have already found out, it is harder to find and more expensive. Do not confuse DOT5.1 with DOT5, they are not the same. DOT5.1 is just a higher boiling point version of DOT4.
 

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Discussion Starter #46
Thank you for clearing that up sir! I actually just finished changing out the fluid in the clutch, and it was absolutely gross! I will definitely be staying on top of it from now on. I am going to tackle the brakes tomorrow haha but other than getting a wideband after gauge and 26t sprocket ordered I have everything I need for this season! So pumped!
 

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Discussion Starter #47
well boys, sunday is the big day! my local track is open for the first test and tune of the season. Unfortunately i didnt get to make it back on the dyno before then so I have to go with what I have. I will be making a few runs N/A just to get a feel for the new clutch and make sure I still remember how to ride the ole girl 😂 then I will make some runs with the nitrous very soft, where we had it on the dyno (167hp/107tq). if everything seems happy after I do a plug check then I will proceed to turning her up! Wish me luck!
 

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Wow looks really good for first pulls can't wait to see what she does on the track with the stronger clutch - if and when you run it again on the Dyno what's the plan to keep the tire hooked up can you strap it down more ? Can you run any ADI with that spray to give a bigger margin to detonation and/or melting lands on stock pistons ? Good Luck let us know how you did with it !! (y) :D
 

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Discussion Starter #50
T
Wow looks really good for first pulls can't wait to see what she does on the track with the stronger clutch - if and when you run it again on the Dyno what's the plan to keep the tire hooked up can you strap it down more ? Can you run any ADI with that spray to give a bigger margin to detonation and/or melting lands on stock pistons ? Good Luck let us know how you did with it !! (y) :D
Thanks! The plan is to strap more, and possibly use hairspray with a better tire. The Dyno has also gotten a new friction surface sense then so I think it will be good haha I’m not sure what you mean by adi?
 

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Anti Detonant Injection - typically water/methanol sprayed at the same time as the nitrous - don't know if that's ever used with Nitrous alone with no boost but it's been used with air cooled Supercharged/Turbo Compound Aircraft Radial Engines back in the day along with up to 145 Octane fuel to resist detonation and cool the incoming mixture and pistons/cylinder heads - I know you Nitrous guys add fuel to richen the mixture to offset the leaning effect of adding oxygen with the spray so can you over richen even more with secondary fuel or ADI to help cool the top end as well ?
 

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Discussion Starter #52
It can be done, but it’s not really necessary. I am running such a high octane fuel as it is that all should be well. I’ve never personally done it, but I hear that adding water/meth injection plus nitrous can actually freeze the fuel and cause other problems. That’s just what I’ve read, and I may be wrong about that, but it does make sense
 

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Yea, that does make sense Makinnoyz1 I'm sure the nitrous spray has a real cooling effect when its evaporates I know the bottles can freeze up so if it's in the intake tract and if water is present yea, ice crystals possible - maybe just methanol by itself ? In any event have big fun tomorrow and let us know how she did !!
 

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Discussion Starter #54
Well boys I smashed my personal best of 7.67 (all motor) with a new pb of 7.24 @98mph today! Made one pass all motor to try out the clutch, and spun a little ([email protected]) then opened the bottle and spun 1st and 2nd but went [email protected] Lowered tire pressure and went the 7.24. I’m still only spraying from 50% to 70% over .5 seconds in first then no ramp (so 70% hit) in second. It got out to a new personal best 60ft of 1.84 and then when I smacked 2nd she stood up on me 😂 need to fab up some fork straps. Once I get back to the Dyno and get her turned all the way up we’re going 6s for sure!
 

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WOW Very cool & Congratulations ! Sounds like you're well on your on your way to dialing it in - maybe needs a sticky flatter section, wider drag tire - maybe a step 50-70 % for second and then a 70 - 100% for third when it's rolling & really has some good wheel Rpm ? Sounds like you may need a wheelie bar before it's all over as well !? :oops: How's the shifting into 2nd gear doing ? Just be careful that H-D OEM helical 2nd gear set is a weak spot on the Revo under heavy power & quick shifting and you may need a straight cut 2nd gear set eventually with other improvements you may do for long term reliability - bike must be a hoot to ride !
 

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Discussion Starter #56
I’ve been shifting it very softly into 2nd as that is a major fear of mine. It’s on my list of things to do next offseason, so I’m hoping to make it live this year hopefully haha scared to death to get into this transmission (just out of fear of never doing it). But yes it’s def a handful to ride! Hoping avoid wheelie bars if possible because I still ride this bike every day to work (125 mile round trip 7 days a week) so not willing to go full race bike yet lol
 

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I’ve been shifting it very softly into 2nd as that is a major fear of mine. It’s on my list of things to do next offseason, so I’m hoping to make it live this year hopefully haha scared to death to get into this transmission (just out of fear of never doing it). But yes it’s def a handful to ride! Hoping avoid wheelie bars if possible because I still ride this bike every day to work (125 mile round trip 7 days a week) so not willing to go full race bike yet lol
You have to split the case to get to the transmission (integrated) on this bike.

I'd consider doing that (straight cut 2nd gear) now as you don't want teeth from a gear floating in your oil (it's not a matter of IF it will break by the way).

How are you retarding timing when you hit the nitrous?
 

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Discussion Starter #58
Timing is pulled statically (3 degrees) from 4500 to 9000rpm. And I know I have to split the case, that’s why I’m trying desperately to avoid it lol
 

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Remember also there are two different straight cut gear sets one softer heat treat more flexible set for limited mileage drag race duty that wear out quickly on the street and a harder heat treat more durable set for the street that may not last as long in a drag bike because they tend to crack and chip more often. If you ride the bike on the street more than drag race get the harder set, so if you commute this bike to work 125 Miles 7 days a week get the street set but watch it at the track - this is one problem from trying to do two dedicated operational duties with one motorcycle.
 
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