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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey folks, names chris. I have a 2012 !0th anniversary that I have owned for a little over 2 years now. When I got the bike it was basically stock, and added a few mods. It has a bassani road rage 2 pipe, SESTP for tuning, and a drop in filter. When I got the bike it had factory bags, and in one of the bags it had a dyno sheet that stated the bike made 118hp/84tq (pretty normal stock numbers) but it also had a receipt for a set of jones stage 2 cams. Now we all know that a 1250 with cams makes roughly 130-135 hp in most cases, so I cannot confirm if the bike has cams, or if that dyno was done before cams, I really don't know.

Anyway, this year I ran the bike at a local 1/8 mile track a few times, and ran right at 7.60 @ 90mph the whole time. with a 350lb rider that is roughly 1050lbs and most calculators put that right at 117hp. Well that caught me the drag racing bug so here we are! This is my official build thread for this bike. so stay tuned!

The list of upgrades that are being done this winter is very simple. I just recently purchased a used Boss Noss system off a member on here with a NOS mini controller and ZEX purge solenoid. The bike is scheduled to be dynod again on December the 5th so I have until then to get that kit installed. Im hoping to be able to dial it in to around 160whp which should put me in the 6s in the 1/8 (which is my overall goal for the year). im also going to do a fitzgerald 26t pulley as well to get the 60' down (averaged 1.890s this year) to roughly 1.7 or better if I can (remember im 6'5" 350lbs so that's flying lol)

I do have a few questions for the experienced guys:
1. What plugs do u recommend? I keep seeing the NGK DCPR8E and DCPR9 come up in a lot of threads on here. when I put those in on autozones site it brings up 9651 and 2641 plug respectively. Are those just new numbers for the same plug? and also what would you gap them too?

2. What clutch mods would be absolutely necessary for this setup? the clutch is a stock slipper at the moment.

3. What is the "safe" limit for a stock bottom end 1250 that would be considered reliable?

Thanks in advance for any advice!
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
605980


Got the bottle mounted, the lines are plumbed, just gotta do a couple things to tidy up the wiring, need to mount and wire the arming and purge switches, then should be good to go!

Ended up getting some ngk DCPR8EIX plugs today, hoping I don’t get bit in the keister by not going a heat range colder 😬😬 I am gonna be running some Sunoco 100 octane so I think I will be plenty safe, 🤞🏻
 

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Looks good. Iridium plugs should be good there. I've been using a little colder DCPR9EIX with E85 ethanol gas. Wanted to go even more colder but ended up using Brisk BOR10LGS. NGK R2525-10 would have been good choice too. Bit expensive though. Also looking for Energycoils or Dynatek since not using ion sensing.

Keep on going good work!
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Looks good. Iridium plugs should be good there. I've been using a little colder DCPR9EIX with E85 ethanol gas. Wanted to go even more colder but ended up using Brisk BOR10LGS. NGK R2525-10 would have been good choice too. Bit expensive though. Also looking for Energycoils or Dynatek since not using ion sensing.

Keep on going good work!
Thank ya sir! Yea I was looking for a little colder, but living where I live it’s hard to get things locally. I could have ordered some online but I couldn’t wait 😈 I have almost everything buttoned up. Just waiting on my scale to come to be able to fill my bottle from my mother bottle (my old scale crapped out on me, of course at the most inconvenient time haha). But after that we should be good to go. Do you recommend pulling any timing in the tune for this ~40hp shot?
 

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If you want to play safe you retard little bit when the gas kicks in. Not want to take exact opinion here since it would depend on your overall tune. If you are already on fatty side it might not require so much etc. Be careful in the first pulls and examine logs if available for the further conclusions. Do not explode your engine sir!
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Yea it’s getting an n/a tune at the same session before we start spraying. I might just pull ~1-1.5* from 4500-9000 where I plan on spraying to be safe. Like I said I’ll be running really good gas too. Just wanna be on the safe side, this is a bracket bike so I don’t need max effort just need consistency (and I wanna go fast 😜) lol
 

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Yea it’s getting an n/a tune at the same session before we start spraying. I might just pull ~1-1.5* from 4500-9000 where I plan on spraying to be safe. Like I said I’ll be running really good gas too. Just wanna be on the safe side, this is a bracket bike so I don’t need max effort just need consistency (and I wanna go fast 😜) lol
Lots to say here, but I'll be brief.

Don't deviate from the stock plugs as they are spec'd for the ion-sensing knock detection system your bike has equipped from the factory.

Why is that a big deal? Because you are asking how much timing to pull while spraying nitrous. First: YES you will need to pull timing when spraying. Second, you need to start small, log knock counts (this is the # of occurrences of "knock" that your ECU is detecting via the aforementioned ion-sensing system, hence why you WANT it in place).

So, spray a small amount. Log knock counts. Review logs. See how many hits you are seeing. Reduce some timing (and review AFR as well, you can help fight knock with richer mixtures to a point). Run again...etc.

Once again, you NEED to log and review to tune your bike in this scenario. Less is more is about the best advice I can give you. Too much and you are looking at two holy ash trays (and I mean holy as in Hole-----Y!!!!).

I'd skip the smaller front pulley as well. Just spray earlier (possibly invest in a launch control device).

Better advice: Skip using this bike for a drag race platform. It sucks and is "weird" which leads to expensive for what it is (and for what you can do with better platforms for much less). I know, that sucks to hear. Just trying to save you money.

Now if you want to create a street/highway monster.........
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Well first off, the ion sensing is turned off in this tune, because the previous owner was using Bosch plugs. Secondly I can’t spray until the clutch is fully released, and I can’t leave any harder than I currently am. I’m already using a 2 step limiter set at 7600rpm. And you won’t talk me out of using this platform, I chose it specifically for this purpose. I like using the stuff no one wants to use, hell my current sled pulling trucks are 7.3 and Fe powered, 2 of the “worst” platforms to pull with in some peoples eyes lol
 

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Well first off, the ion sensing is turned off in this tune, because the previous owner was using Bosch plugs. Secondly I can’t spray until the clutch is fully released, and I can’t leave any harder than I currently am. I’m already using a 2 step limiter set at 7600rpm. And you won’t talk me out of using this platform, I chose it specifically for this purpose. I like using the stuff no one wants to use, hell my current sled pulling trucks are 7.3 and Fe powered, 2 of the “worst” platforms to pull with in some peoples eyes lol
Good luck. If you disable the ion-sensing system you are left with "reading" plugs. Which as you may know is a royal pain in the dark areas on these bikes (i.e. just to get to the coils themselves you have to remove the airbox assembly).

Then of course you are looking at waiting for cool down, pulling plugs, reading them, making tune adjustments, installing new plugs (since you are reading them you want a new one each time preferably), then hoping you don't go to far timing advance wise....

Versus, enable the ion-sensing system, do your run, go to the pits download data, review logs, make changes to timing table/etc....

Don't be a chump! :)
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
I can’t data log with this sestp so I would’ve been reading plugs no matter what. And with the wideband I have I feel like just pulling a couple degrees when spraying will be plenty. Most guys don’t even pull any for these small shots, I think I’ll be good man
 

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Good luck without any sort of logging. I speak from 20 + years of experience here, but I understand your desire. Trying to save you a whole lot of anger.
 

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I think that if we discuss under BigBore/Turbo/SC/NOS area everybody has evaluated possible risks and own tolerance for breaking things up. That's racing. Hope that we all stay safe if we little bit push limits. To me ion sensing is not the answer while it is not available for DTT. Actually if harmful amount of knocking is detected you are bit late already.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Yea I mean I’m not the least bit scared of destroying this thing lol I have actually already purchased a Fitzgerald 1434 kit from someone who never got around to using it, just waiting to find a spare engine to build. The original plan was to build that engine and put it in then spray. But I thought hell, why not have a little fun with the original engine first. This bike is ridden nearly every day, 7 days a week to work. It’s about a 125mi round trip daily through the Appalachia’s. I have averaged 30k miles both years I’ve owned it. The bike is beaten on, and borderline abused every time it is ridden. But I’m not afraid of breaking stuff. I am a very lucky person in that I don’t have to fret over money, I have a VERY well paying job. Literally every vehicle I own now has a nitrous kit on it. While I may be knew to nitrous on this particular engine, I am NOT a newbie when it comes to the bottle! I have several of the ashtrays that you speak of, and each one was a lesson in its own way. I think I will be fine, I’m lucky enough to have the collective knowledge of everyone on this forum, and other parts of the internet. I think this will be a fun adventure, thank y’all for coming along!
 

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That's the spirit! I have chosen that adventure path too even I'm not bathing in the money. I beat another bike to death and keep other reliable almost stock. So I got perspective from DTT dark side as well easy Delphi living. Hell I feel like living when I take turbo out for drive even it can left me to freeway anytime. If it breaks I will fix it. No big deal. 😅

Have fun in the strip and keep posting your new record times (y)
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Well guys tomorrow is the big day! Gotta be at the dyno at 8:30am, i'm sure I wont sleep a wink tonight. 😂😂 Stopped and got a can of Sunoco 110 today. I know I will lose a few hp running that high of an octane with stock compression, but ill trade that for peace of mind when it comes to detonation. Wish me luck, videos and dyno results will be here tomorrow!
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
It has the 60hp nozzles in it right now. I’m gonna use the nos controller to limit that to about half on the first few runs, then start adding in fuel and nitrous until either the fuel pump can’t take it, or I run out of nitrous (so 60hp). I expect to see about a 50hp gain over stock tho
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Well today went very well! Made very good numbers! 124hp/87tq on motor and sprayed it too a best of 167hp/107tq never hooking up. Was most impressed with what I was able to pick up on the NA runs with nothing but fueling changes. It was only 5hp peak but the area under the curve is pretty substantial I think! Had trouble keeping tach signal when spraying, then it started blowing the tire off, then when it finally hooked it started blowing through the clutch :( We finally gave up and decided to try again another time after some changes! Nitrous controller was only on 70% so there is ALOT of power left to be had (should make 185-190 easy). All runs made one Sunoco standard 110. Huge shoutout to Matt and the guys at Precision Powersports for the experience and making sure I was tuning correctly (did my own tuning), next season is gonna be a blast!

also what clutch do y’all recommend for a daily bike that will see a lot of track time as well?
 
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