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There's many "good" brands out there, some even make complete kits for the swap out (control cables, hydraulic lines, etc.) ............... Everyone has their opinion on what "good" is so it's subjective........ I think there's budman risers for your bike, plus bars with more pullback will help you out
Budman Riser | Harley Davidson V-Rod Forum (1130cc.com)

There's members with handle bar conversions, give them time they will help out here
 

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2012 VRSCDX NightRod Special
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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
There's many "good" brands out there, some even make complete kits for the swap out (control cables, hydraulic lines, etc.) ............... Everyone has their opinion on what "good" is so it's subjective........ I think there's budman risers for your bike, plus bars with more pullback will help you out
Budman Riser | Harley Davidson V-Rod Forum (1130cc.com)

There's members with handle bar conversions, give them time they will help out here
Oh my gosh thank you so much
 

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2004 vrsca
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I'm 6'2, and I wish I had a little taller bars!

Is there a brand anyone would recommend for bars or Risers?
I'm 6'3 and the stock bars I find comfortable. Had an 03 that was much more comfortable, and also the stock muscle handlebars. For apes I've had on a street bob a few years back, looked good but felt funny for riding
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The breakout photo is only for reference of a very nice looking ape imo, since my own photos were taken by a turd on a stick instead of a camera 😁
 

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Yea from your photo bars need to be rotated up in the clamps - the rise in the bars should be equal to or slightly aft of the alignment with the extended center line of the forks when viewed from the side - I use the same DX bars on my R model without the 3.5 Lb ! DX riser and they work great - You can also retain the DX riser and buy a higher, flatter pullback handlebar and get more room that will make you much happier than Apes. Having said that mini Apes might be OK for you but at some point it takes new throttle, front brake & clutch cables, add $ 500 to the deal, so you have to be aware of that. From what I see rotate the bars up in the clamps, ride it and decide if you need a higher, flatter pullback bar and work it to stay in range of the stock cables, wires and hoses and you'll be a happy camper ( or V Rodder ) ! (y) :cool:
 

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2012 VRSCDX NightRod Special
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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Yea from your photo bars need to be rotated up in the clamps - the rise in the bars should be equal to or slightly aft of the alignment with the extended center line of the forks when viewed from the side - I use the same DX bars on my R model without the 3.5 Lb ! DX riser and they work great - You can also retain the DX riser and buy a higher, flatter pullback handlebar and get more room that will make you much happier than Apes. Having said that mini Apes might be OK for you but at some point it takes new throttle, front brake & clutch cables, add $ 500 to the deal, so you have to be aware of that. From what I see rotate the bars up in the clamps, ride it and decide if you need a higher, flatter pullback bar and work it to stay in range of the stock cables, wires and hoses and you'll be a happy camper ( or V Rodder ) ! (y) :cool:
Thank you so much!! Wow that's amazing advice! I will try that this spring!
 

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About time you chimed in, I knew you had experience with swapping bars....... I already mentioned about all the rest that goes with "just" changing out bars
PS..... It's a DX and you might be able to find a used set of mid controls (unicorns) that will change riding position
 

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Ya know it's funny the relationship of handlebar angle to fork angle - makes a huge difference on how the bike steers - look closely at the angle of the grips to the ground too - if bars are too far forward the outer grip will be higher than the inboard grip - pulls you forward & up higher but can be a bit squirrely feeling. That's when you know you may be too far forward, so you need a flatter bar with less pullback for your reach. I always like my bars with the outboard grip slightly lower than the inboard grip - at the right height - and equal to or less than fork angle, its a bit more natural for the wrists and lay on of the hands. Might take a few handlebars to find the perfect set for your arm length, torso height, where you sit on the seat, etc. but it's worth it. If you look at Apes and to a lesser degree mini Apes they have to be rotated forward to give reach room due to the angle of the forks, higher bars get too close to the rider. This is where weird things happen to your body position and most importantly your hands might be father forward than the steering stem. Like anti - leverage more squirrely power steering. I've seen guys sell 25K bikes because they didn't want to spend a few hundred to a thousand bucks for the proper ergonomics that a new seat and handlebars can provide. Make your bike fit you - totally improves everything, including how long you can ride it comfortably & the resultant safety - (y):cool:
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Ya know it's funny the relationship of handlebar angle to fork angle - makes a huge difference on how the bike steers - look closely at the angle of the grips to the ground too - if bars are too far forward the outer grip will be higher than the inboard grip - pulls you forward & up higher but can be a bit squirrely feeling. That's when you know you may be too far forward, so you need a flatter bar with less pullback for your reach. I always like my bars with the outboard grip slightly lower than the inboard grip - at the right height - and equal to or less than fork angle, its a bit more natural for the wrists and lay on of the hands. Might take a few handlebars to find the perfect set for your arm length, torso height, where you sit on the seat, etc. but it's worth it. If you look at Apes and to a lesser degree mini Apes they have to be rotated forward to give reach room due to the angle of the forks, higher bars get too close to the rider. This is where weird things happen to your body position and most importantly your hands might be father forward than the steering stem. Like anti - leverage more squirrely power steering. I've seen guys sell 25K bikes because they didn't want to spend a few hundred to a thousand bucks for the proper ergonomics that a new seat and handlebars can provide. Make your bike fit you - totally improves everything, including how long you can ride it comfortably & the resultant safety - (y):cool:
Thank you so much I will start researching that right now!! I really had no idea it had that much of an impact!
 

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Muscle only ......... I have had Brandon moments
But there are other risers that will give similar results .....
A while back some were using 3/4-1" spacer discs and longer bolts on the 12 and up DX to bring the bars up and back a bit. Supposedly, this works with stock cables and lines. Some used Sportster bars to get the same effect. Me, personally and being older, I've always felt about a 9-10" mini ape would be the best fit for me, just never got around to it. My rides are shorter now, so I just tolerate the stock setup.
Ron
 

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I just did a bar swap recently because long rides with drag bars were killing my back and wrists. Might be a bit over the top but I put 16" apes with 1" risers and it is so much better. As for brands, I found these bars on ebay for a good price and they're mated to some generic 1" risers from amazon (due to tight budget) but after 600mi cruising and one trip up to MA (1.5hr) they were night & day difference from the 1" drags that were on it. I'm also 5"11 with 29" arm length for reference. The brake cable was pieced together from Summit racing and the clutch cable was from Magnum shielding. Throttle cables were made by Barnett and I did all the wiring myself with spare wire laying around.

The benefit of these risers with how simple they are is I could reposition these bars (or any other 1"DIA bars) to the most comfortable position when riding so if apes isn't the desired look then they could be swapped for any shorter bars and still be adjusted to right fit.

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